@$##@% Heads!

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Yup.... 18ft pounds... and the holes should have been tapped when the valve job was done...

Here's to you... :D my own stock..

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I forgot to mention and you might be interested but the Hughes hold down kit are studs rather than bolts. The hold downs themselves are made of billet steel.

Oh and a good buddy of mine 340sFastback recommend them.

Just for the knowledge of it ... what is the torque specs on a thermostat housing?
 
Everytime I work on my car that kind of thing happens. It is always on my Dart. I have knick named that kind of crap Dartisum! I always expect it now. I could tell you all kind of stories about this #@$% Dart!
 
Thanks all. The guy at the machine shop got the snapped bolt out and I'm back in business. 18 lbs it is from now on, I even changed it in the book incase I forget down the road.
 
1969GTS said:
Thanks all. The guy at the machine shop got the snapped bolt out and I'm back in business. 18 lbs it is from now on, I even changed it in the book incase I forget down the road.
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Just remember the Alice Cooper song "Eighteen...!" :toothy10:
 
Fishy,

if you can find a carbide drill bit it should be able to drill though the tap. We did one today with a carbide end mill on a bridge port machine. Made drilling the tap very easy.
 
mullinax95 said:
I forgot to mention and you might be interested but the Hughes hold down kit are studs rather than bolts. The hold downs themselves are made of billet steel.

Oh and a good buddy of mine 340sFastback recommend them.

Just for the knowledge of it ... what is the torque specs on a thermostat housing?
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30 ft. lbs. on the thermostat housing bolts, but if aluminum intake, Heli Coil it first.
 
blk00rt said:
Fishy,

if you can find a carbide drill bit it should be able to drill though the tap. We did one today with a carbide end mill on a bridge port machine. Made drilling the tap very easy.
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Yeah that's what my machinist did. Ruined 2 carbide bits (they were cheapies) but he finally got it drilled out. Wish I had the money for a bridge port so I could do that stuff myself but I'm not that lucky.
 
It all seemed to go together well which makes me nervous. All I have left is bolting the headers back, plugs, wires and timing. The exhaust gaskets that came in the kit won't work so I pick those up tomorrow on coffee break. I've never figured out how to get a torque wrench into the four inside bolt on the RPM intake. A socket wont even fit with a u-joint on it.
 
1969GTS said:
I've never figured out how to get a torque wrench into the four inside bolt on the RPM intake. A socket wont even fit with a u-joint on it.
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I just cross tighten those bolts and snug them up. I never torque the intake but I do go back after it has been run for a while and snug them up again in a cross tightening sequence. They don't need to be real tight so don't go crazy.
 
mullinax95 said:
Just for the knowledge of it ... what is the torque specs on a thermostat housing?
Click to expand...

FYI, I have a chart in the shop that states torque by size....:read2:
1/4-20= grade 5 is 8 ft/lbs, grade 8 is 12

5/16-18= grade 5 is 17 ft/lbs, grade 8 is 24

3/8-16= grade 5 is 30 ft/lbs, grade 8 is 45

Now do remember that if you lube the threads with oil, antiseize, etc. you need to drop these numbers by about 10-15%. When going into aluminum, I drop it by 15% ALWAYS, unless its helicoiled or timeserted. I personally antiseize about 90% of all bolts in building a car.
 
340sFastback said:
I just cross tighten those bolts and snug them up. I never torque the intake but I do go back after it has been run for a while and snug them up again in a cross tightening sequence. They don't need to be real tight so don't go crazy.
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That's the way I've always done it too and never had a problem. I don't think I've ever had an intake that I could get a torque wrench on the middle bolts.
 
fishy68 said:
That's the way I've always done it too and never had a problem. I don't think I've ever had an intake that I could get a torque wrench on the middle bolts.
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LOL....I don't think they exist unless maybe a tunnel ram.:-D
 
fishy68 said:
That's the way I've always done it too and never had a problem. I don't think I've ever had an intake that I could get a torque wrench on the middle bolts.
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Crow feet. They look like a open end of a box wrench with a super short end. That end has a square for the torque wrench.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Crow feet. They look like a open end of a box wrench with a super short end. That end has a square for the torque wrench.
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Yeah I have them but I always wondered if they affect the torque reading since it effectively lengthens the wrench. I have a good beam type torque wrench I test torque wrenches with. Maybe I should try using a crows foot and see if it does affect the reading.
 
fishy68 said:
Yeah I have them but I always wondered if they affect the torque reading since it effectively lengthens the wrench. I have a good beam type torque wrench I test torque wrenches with. Maybe I should try using a crows foot and see if it does affect the reading.
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Technically a crows foot wrench should effect the torque reading by the distance of the centerline of the bolt being torqued vs. the centerline of the torque wrench drive.
 
DONE! I'll fire it up tomorrow after all the gasket glue is dry and hope for the best.

Thanks again.
 
Good, good luck, enjoy the ride!

Fishy, it does, I used to have the formula for this, but it's effect is small and determined by the length of the crow feet and other variables.

Beileve it or not, I think it was part of the instructions to my Crafstmen torque wrench.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Good, good luck, enjoy the ride!

Fishy, it does, I used to have the formula for this, but it's effect is small and determined by the length of the crow feet and other variables.

Beileve it or not, I think it was part of the instructions to my Crafstmen torque wrench.
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Gotcha rumble. I didn't think it'd be much but figured a little. If you run across that formula let us know if you would please. I always like to torque stuff but so many times I can't get a torque wrench in but a crows foot would fit so it'd be nice to know this. Thanks
 
Tap the threads before sending to the machine shop. Cleaning should help clean them out and recheck before assembly just to make sure all chips are gone.
Use light oil on threads prior to torqeing.
 
Any of you guys ever heard of using a welder to get them out? A mig works really good. It just requires a really steady hand. Did one sunday night on a 318 ex stud broken off just below the surface.
 
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