He's the guy with a later white fuse box in his car.
Here's a schematic showing the power supply route for a '70.
In general, the car's two power supplies are joined at a welded splice, and the feeds from their go to the key switch, hot side of the fuse box, headlight, and in '70 the horn relay.
The diagram from the FSM shows the wiring for an A/C heater optioned car.
Not shown on that diagram is the power to the fusebox. We can just add that in. Heater was always switched so its the wire Q2A
Wires C1 and C1A were 14 gage Black and 18 gage Light Green.
You can test for power to the fusebox and other switched accessories by putting the key in Accessory position. That will save power and keep from heating the points and coil or ECU and coil.
The ammeter can be a useful tool as well.
When the engine is off, anything drawing power will show as battery discharge.
At the same time note that any wire attached to the mainsplice is connected to the battery. If they are accidentally grounded, the battery is getting shorted.
Anyway the next thing to look for is if the previous owner left the heater from the A/C unit or installed a non-A/C heater.
edit:
From the main diagram. Non A/C heater looks to use the same C1 (14gage black with stripe) wire to the heater switch.
Also it shows a three position buss, in which case the jumper to the extrqa fuse for the A/C optional light green wire wasn't needed.
That seems to match what this guy shows in the fusebox from his '70
You will only need the power to the heater switch if using just a heater.