ok so i put a set of these on my 1974 swinger 360 power steering auto, i had long tube headers on it before with pipes to the axle i see that i should not use the collectors that come with it, so what do I tell the muff shop when they are getting ready?
hedman "tight tube" hedders?
- Thread starter mtandrews
- Start date
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MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Ask them if they have a pair of larger collectors they can use, if not then just order some on your own...
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Another option for the exhaust shop is to not actually use the reducer pipes, but just weld the pipe directly to the flange.
I did not use a mini starter on my 70 with power steering .
TXSTANG , they did a great job , looks great . No problems with your hedders ever hitting bottom . Hows the power , do you feel these hedders areas good as the hedders they replaced ? I thought they give me better power , on the top end especially . Lets have some soind bites !
txstang84
Well-Known Member
Give me a little time there Jerry...I just got off a 12 about an hour ago. It's really nothing special...just a stock 5.2 Magnum pulled out of a '98 Dakota. They replaced stock manifolds, and after I got the timing played with a little, it pulled harder in the midrange-felt smoother. I gotta work tomorrow too, so it may be a few days.
I have had a couple little issues, but they were generated by shitty gaskets, and amongst those occasions, I've shaved off about an hours worth of time to swap both flange and collector gaskets.
You don't have to use the mini starter if you're running your pipes under the steering. If you run them like mine are, you won't have enough room for 2.5" pipes with a stock starter...there's about 3/8" room on either side of my pipe nestled between the torsion bar and starter. When I talked to the guy who did mine, he said with a stock starter, he might've been able to squeeze a 2" pipe, but it would wind up getting squished and I probably wouldn't be able to replace the starter if I needed to without pulling the head pipe down. And since mine is joined by an X pipe...yeah, it would suck a little.
I have had a couple little issues, but they were generated by shitty gaskets, and amongst those occasions, I've shaved off about an hours worth of time to swap both flange and collector gaskets.
You don't have to use the mini starter if you're running your pipes under the steering. If you run them like mine are, you won't have enough room for 2.5" pipes with a stock starter...there's about 3/8" room on either side of my pipe nestled between the torsion bar and starter. When I talked to the guy who did mine, he said with a stock starter, he might've been able to squeeze a 2" pipe, but it would wind up getting squished and I probably wouldn't be able to replace the starter if I needed to without pulling the head pipe down. And since mine is joined by an X pipe...yeah, it would suck a little.
Well looks like quite a few people have opted for these headers since I installed them , some real nice installs , would have helped the fabricators a lot back when I put them on . Now there is a great database of pictures to help
DemonK9
Well-Known Member
Just an FYI.
Installed these Hedman tight tube Hedders on my '73 Duster, 340, 4 speed with power steering.
>Installed mini starter
>Had to undo driver side motor mount and lift driver side of engine to get the clearance to get Hedder in between block and power steering.
>Passenger side went in fairly easy.
Will have some pics after I get the rest of exhaust pipes/mufflers installed next week. But will probably go with the straight down install, like jerry6 in this post http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1437563&postcount=121
Installed these Hedman tight tube Hedders on my '73 Duster, 340, 4 speed with power steering.
>Installed mini starter
>Had to undo driver side motor mount and lift driver side of engine to get the clearance to get Hedder in between block and power steering.
>Passenger side went in fairly easy.
Will have some pics after I get the rest of exhaust pipes/mufflers installed next week. But will probably go with the straight down install, like jerry6 in this post http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1437563&postcount=121
Good luck , hope you have a really good shop do it , there are a lot of intricate curves to get it to fit and flow well . Of course the shop I went to had no pics to guide him , made it up as he went along . Hope you have an easier time of it . Can't wait for the pics of completed system .
Furious65
C-body Guy
I'm late as always. This thread was very informative. I really appreciate all the pics and experiences shared on these headers and the issues to make them work. Having said that, a question/idea!
Why not run 2.25" exhaust? I know on a high HP engine that would kill some power but should be a lot easier to snake over the drag link. Plus, for a stock or mild build I would think 2.25" should be more than enough. Also, even though I know it wouldn't be ideal, you could run 2.25" off the headers then up size it to 2.5" after you clear the drag link.
This thread was very informative. I really appreciate all the pics and experiences shared on these headers and the issues to make them work. Having said that, a question/idea!Why not run 2.25" exhaust? I know on a high HP engine that would kill some power but should be a lot easier to snake over the drag link. Plus, for a stock or mild build I would think 2.25" should be more than enough. Also, even though I know it wouldn't be ideal, you could run 2.25" off the headers then up size it to 2.5" after you clear the drag link.
jrlegacy23
68 Barracuda
I'm late as always.
Why not run 2.25" exhaust? I know on a high HP engine that would kill some power but should be a lot easier to snake over the drag link. Plus, for a stock or mild build I would think 2.25" should be more than enough. Also, even though I know it wouldn't be ideal, you could run 2.25" off the headers then up size it to 2.5" after you clear the drag link.
That is pretty much what I plan to do. My car will probably see the drag strip maybe once a year to three years. So the ease of this installation is ideal for me.
Bringing this one back because it has some excellent info. Just got me some headers because ANYTHING is better than the crappy ones that are on the car now. Car is only a 318, so wouldn't 2 1/4 piping be adequate? If they have to use the older bender and not mandrel bends I would like to stick to 2 1/2 so it doesn't get too constricting, but I think going slightly smaller diameter might help a little with fitment - especially since it's just a 318. Opinions?
Cameron1038
Well-Known Member
Im also thinking tight tube hedmans to 2 1/4 exhaust for hot 318. Im also looking for feedback on this. Thanks!
MopaR&D
Nerd Member
Go for it, no reason I can't think of it wouldn't work great :burnout:
Well, I got mine all plumbed and they are bitchin. Since it's a 318, I told the muffler guy he can drop to 2.25" for to do the bends, and then open it to 2.5". Thank you guys for the previous pictures, because he told me he couldn't do it...until I showed him pictures. I think it sparked the challenge in his mind ;) Now it's routed above all the linkage, clearance is awesome, and I can still get to my oil filter w/o the right angle fitting. Very nice! I will try to get some pics of the piping tomorrow or so.
Great job they did , let us know how they perform , better than what they replaced ? It's great to see all the tight tube headers , you got clearance , good performance , maybe 5-10 hp less than TTI and the same or better than regular headers and manifolds . Been 2 years now and stiil happy with my Hedman tight tubes . Now to solve the traction and gearing , no more 13.8 . I want 12. something this year !
Got headmans blockhuggers and had to pull the steering column up to get the old manifold out. Valve covers had to come off to get the new ones in. will have to get a mini starter. which one do you rec. and where from. Anxious to get this job done. Been wanting a set of headers for some time, think these will work just fine.
Ohhh man I feel bad for missing your questions, Ronk. Shoot me a pm if you're still in a bind, even though it's been so long.
For an update, even with my TERRIBLE suspension I haven't scraped the exhaust at all and pulling them isn't a big deal, either. I did have to go with a mini starter, but I already knew that. I hit up a junk yard, got a similar starter from a later 80's dodge van and brought it to autozone as a core for an early 90's small dodge pickup starter. I was shocked to see that it looks identical to a ministarter that you get from Summit and wherever. Sure, I'd expect the internals to be different, but hey...lifetime warranty
For an update, even with my TERRIBLE suspension I haven't scraped the exhaust at all and pulling them isn't a big deal, either. I did have to go with a mini starter, but I already knew that. I hit up a junk yard, got a similar starter from a later 80's dodge van and brought it to autozone as a core for an early 90's small dodge pickup starter. I was shocked to see that it looks identical to a ministarter that you get from Summit and wherever. Sure, I'd expect the internals to be different, but hey...lifetime warranty
67Plymouthbarracuda
Well-Known Member
Mad Dart, did you use the mini starter as well? Or were you fine without it?
dartsportfan1
Member
Newbie here from mass,new to FABO and mopars in general,have 75 dart sport 360 magnum,904,8.25 just out of paint. JC Whitney has them also $233 with 20% email discount.Talk about affordable.
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