HEI in a Mopar?

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txstang84

txstang84

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OK, so I've seen this swap mentioned in many threads lately involving troubleshooting of ignition problems, but I must be confused about something...are there aftermarket dizzys with HEI parts in them or are some of you guys retrofitting original parts in series with HEI parts? If so, how is it configured, how much does it cost for basic modification, and what are the advantages/drawbacks?
 
Look up trailbeast he sells the kits for 100 I put one on and they are the greatest think since sex. Hot restarts are really good no more grinding and messing around, hit the key and go. You can do a search on this sight and it explains it all. You will never deal with a nicer person.
 
Aw shucks Tom, thank you.

There are a bunch of aftermarket parts that come with HEI parts in them like "Ready to run" distributors as well as aftermarket HEI modules by Accell that replace points and OEM electronic equipment.
The ones I build use the OEM electronic distributor, but everything else is replaced with the HEI stuff prewired and ready to connect up.

Most of the trouble shooting of HEI stuff you are seeing on the board is of people who decided to build thier own and missing something like reluctor gap, or power supply to the HEI coil, or even a good ground.

This is mine installed in my Dart and I have been running it for over a year now, and it's been flawless.

As far as I know there are no drawbacks, but plenty of positives.
Better starts (hot and cold both)
Better gas mileage
More power
Smoother idle

Since the spark is so much hotter and longer than stock, you can run a .045 plug gap and this is where the HEI gets it's performance advantages from.
 

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tekslk said:
...they are the greatest think since sex.
Click to expand...

Pretty bold statement-LOL!

I don't think I've had any real issues with hot starts, but that sounds reassuring. Can I assume less energy is lost through the rpm range? I think I saw somewhere the ballast resistor is no longer needed, is that correct?
 
I guess I must've been replying as you typed-looks pretty cool. So I take it this is preferable to something else like the revonator?

Just looking at options right now...
 
Well then I am going to throw this out there I just picked up my distributor for my new engine build. How do I get your HEI toy? What do I need to do differently with it?
 
txstang84 said:
I must be confused about something...are there aftermarket dizzys with HEI parts in them............... or are some of you guys retrofitting original parts in series with HEI parts? ................
Click to expand...

The answer is YES.

1---There are a number of different aftermarket HEI distributor setups

2---You can use TBs setup above, which gives you capability of electronic spark control

3---You can also do it "on the cheap" like I did and use the older 4 terminal HEI module, also uses your original OEM Mopar breakerless distributor, and you can even use (I am) a stock factory coil.

So.......there are a number of ways to "skin a cat."

Mine:

Mount the module to flat sheet metal or a heat sink, use the supplied thermal compound, and ground it with the mounting screws. Make absolutely sure that the distributor is wired as per polarity shown. No need for a ballast resistor. Hook the original ballast resistor wiring together and you can leave the factory coil+ wire in place

zu5qn8.jpg


I also put a spare in a box with a coil when I wanted to fire a couple of used engines, and it also became my "trunk spare." Just hook up two clip leads, ground and battery, plug in the coil wire and distributor, and you have ignition

hwlcfa.jpg
 
You can also clean up under the hood a little by getting rid of the old balast wiring.
 
That's kinda what I figured Del, I knew I'd read of folks installing the parts but didn't recall seeing any kind of description or wiring diagram on how to go about it. There may be a possibility of using aftermarket EFI in the future, but that's gonna be a while. If it's a quick afternoon type thing, I might have to buy some pieces parts when I get off leave and do a little swaparoo...
 
...Hook the original ballast resistor wiring together and you can leave the factory coil+ wire in place...
Click to expand...

Just delete the ballast resistor altogether and connect the blue wires directly to the brown? Sweet!
 
I lose all the wires mentioned above by using the coil in cap GM style HEI. No problems in the 2 years its been on my 360..
 
T Bs kit just makes for a nice appreance you also get rid of coil wires, Yes you can buy parts at local auto parts but till you get them and do your own wiring and splicing its better to go with tb"s plus if you need assistance hes there for you.
 
tekslk said:
T Bs kit just makes for a nice appreance you also get rid of coil wires, Yes you can buy parts at local auto parts but till you get them and do your own wiring and splicing its better to go with tb"s plus if you need assistance hes there for you.
Click to expand...

I'm not frightened by wiring and splices, just hadn't seen any wiring diagrams on how to make it all work, or what all parts were required, and I was soliciting opinions.

I did some more searching and saw a couple folks who commented that the factory HEI module suffered similar issues as the factory Mopar ignition at 4500rpm+. I have yet to experience such phenomenon on mine, but I also spent a couple extra $ when converting the car to electronic a couple years ago and bought the orange box, and mine doesn't see the high side of 4500 very often.


I'll likely wind up with an MSD or Mallory type setup in the long run with the planned big block, but if the HEI is a better ignition setup with results I can quantify, then I'll look into it as an interim improvement. But, at $140 for the complete kit from classichei.com, I'm not too far away from an aftermarket ignition with rev limiter, hence the reason I thought about the revonator...factory appearance/compatibility, with better energy and rev limiter.

thoughts?
 
Replacement HEI modules have not suffered from the "high RPM deterioration" for a very long time, possibly just after they were introduced.

The big advantage in my mind of a GM over Mopar box is don't have to worry about whether it's a 4 or 5 pin box, and you don't need a ballast. Even with a factory coil, they give you a little more "soup" and you can run a HP "E core" coil.
 
Go into tb s profile and look at his video, you wont believe the spark and everything.
 
Sorry, I was gone.

Let me try and clear up a couple of things about the HEI systems I sell if I can.

There are two BIG reasons my kits are ahead of the others available on the market.
1. Price (You can't get any other HEI system for the price unless you build it yourself)
2. Replacement parts are as common as bellybuttons. (every parts house in every town in the US has these parts in stock.)

The revonators are fine, but you still need a coil to put out the HEI spark or all you are getting is the rev limiter and not HEI.

As far as wiring, I removed all the original coil wires, ballast wires, and ignition module wires all the way back to the harness. (quite a bit of wire out from around the engine.)

I still sell these to FABO members for 99.95 shipped (Even though it says 149.95 on the classichei.com site.)
Just send the payment to my paypal address (PM me for that thanks)
I will then build and send the kit, and normal turn around time is usually four to five days.

They are tested on my own car for correct fuction before they ship.
 
jhdeval said:
Well then I am going to throw this out there I just picked up my distributor for my new engine build. How do I get your HEI toy? What do I need to do differently with it?
Click to expand...

Assuming you got a standard electronic distributor, you just hook this up, gap your plugs at .045, set your timing and that's it.

You can then sell or whatever your ignition module off the fender, the coil off the intake manifold, and the ballast resistor along with all the wires to all the above parts.
This system will connect right to the old ballast wires for ign power, then hook up the two wires to the distributor, mount the module to a grounded surface and thats about it.
It also comes with the correct coil wire for the male connection on the coil.

FABO members still get the 99.95 shipped price, so pm me for the address instead of ordering off the www.classichei.com site.
 
For all engines but the slant, you can buy a new distributor with integral HEI module for $45 to $120 (search ebay). Some have a coil in cap like old Chevy motors, which is the simplest wiring of all. You can pay more for parts from the same factory from tuner shops if you enjoy spending money. Use an e-core coil for best performance. For a slant, it is easy to roll-your-own (many posts, I did).

Any ignition system that uses a ballast resistor is old-fashioned and won't give as strong a spark. These include factory Mopar (~72-82), Pertronix Ignitor (I, not II or III), Holley XR700, ... For future upgrades, consider the 8-pin HEI module which will allow adding computer spark control later. TrailBeast's kit uses that.
 
Got the HEI kit installed today, took my time and had it all installed in about an hour after having some issues with soldering the power wire. I also installed some new plugs, gapped them at .045" and fired it up. First time it fired up quick but, as the directions stated, if it runs crappy or not at all, swap the pickup wires and try again...and it ran pretty crappy, sounded as though the timing was way off. After swapping, crimping, and sealing the wires, it's all better. I haven't had opportunity to open it up really due to weather around here today, but it runs well and starts up quickly-even when cold.

The only thing I wasn't overly pleased with was having to install a new crimp terminal on the tach lead...the installed one fell off when I was moving the wiring around...about 30 seconds worth of work and I was back in business.

In a nutshell, I'm happy with it. Thanks TrailBeast!
 
I put one of the $50 Ebay dizzys on my 68 and a Pertronix blaster 2 coil I think was $40. The only thing I did with the wiring was to "shunt" inside the ballast resistor as I kind of like the factory look. Gapped the plugs out to .045. and it runs great. Also with the ballast shunted I also used that coil power point for the new electric choke. All of this seems sooo much better than the mopar or Summit electronic conversions at over $200.
 
TrailBeast said:
Assuming you got a standard electronic distributor, you just hook this up, gap your plugs at .045, set your timing and that's it.

You can then sell or whatever your ignition module off the fender, the coil off the intake manifold, and the ballast resistor along with all the wires to all the above parts.
This system will connect right to the old ballast wires for ign power, then hook up the two wires to the distributor, mount the module to a grounded surface and thats about it.
It also comes with the correct coil wire for the male connection on the coil.

FABO members still get the 99.95 shipped price, so pm me for the address instead of ordering off the www.classichei.com site.
Click to expand...

Are you offering your kit with the rev limiter yet?
 
the only flaw in mopar 4 pin ECU's are the ballast resistor, and its not there for the ECU its there for the coil so it doesn't overheat

bypass the ballast resistor and put a flamethower coil on, problem solved
 
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