HEI in a Mopar?

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txstang84 said:
Got the HEI kit installed today, took my time and had it all installed in about an hour after having some issues with soldering the power wire. I also installed some new plugs, gapped them at .045" and fired it up. First time it fired up quick but, as the directions stated, if it runs crappy or not at all, swap the pickup wires and try again...and it ran pretty crappy, sounded as though the timing was way off. After swapping, crimping, and sealing the wires, it's all better. I haven't had opportunity to open it up really due to weather around here today, but it runs well and starts up quickly-even when cold.

The only thing I wasn't overly pleased with was having to install a new crimp terminal on the tach lead...the installed one fell off when I was moving the wiring around...about 30 seconds worth of work and I was back in business.

In a nutshell, I'm happy with it. Thanks TrailBeast!
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You are very welcome, and Thank you also.

Sorry about the tach connector.
They are just sooooo easy to cut right off when crimping them I am sometimes overly carefull.



Idaho said:
Are you offering your kit with the rev limiter yet?
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No, but only because the existing rev limiters are so easy and cheap to get these days.
What I currently do for people that want a rev limiter is to recommend the Ignitor 3 by Pertronics and an ecoil.
If you happen to be referring to the Rabid Gator timing controller mentioned earlier, I wish.
That person quit building them and I can't talk him into starting again.
He got a new job in an aerospace lab and isn't interested in building them any more.
 
Don't I know it, man. I'm not upset about the connector, I just wanted to give raw feedback to anyone considering upgrading-it's certainly well worth the cost and even though I'm not great at wiring, I can read and interpret a diagram and do a little soldering...not my strong suit, but I bet a good soldering iron would go a long way.
 
txstang84 said:
Don't I know it, man. I'm not upset about the connector, I just wanted to give raw feedback to anyone considering upgrading-it's certainly well worth the cost and even though I'm not great at wiring, I can read and interpret a diagram and do a little soldering...not my strong suit, but I bet a good soldering iron would go a long way.
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Thank you, I appreciate the feedback.
Good thing that's the only crimp used on these, and everything else is soldered. :D

A 45 watt solder iron is a good start, and good flux is a must in my book.
 
66plyValiant said:
the only flaw in mopar 4 pin ECU's are the ballast resistor, and its not there for the ECU its there for the coil so it doesn't overheat

bypass the ballast resistor and put a flamethower coil on, problem solved
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I'm not so sure about that. Maybe people who did that are the reason we read of Mopar ECU's with melted epoxy filler running down the inner fender. The early ECU's (5-pin) required a 5 ohm ballast on the ECU supply pin. Those were the "dual ballast" design. Later ones (4-pin) operated from full 12 V, but I think they still needed a ballasted coil to protect both the ECU and coil. I have had several Holley XR700 electronic ignitions, which was designed a little later than the Mopar ECU, and the manual says to keep the ballast in the system. Their XR3000 does not require a ballast, but was designed for "racing only".
 
BillGrissom said:
I'm not so sure about that. Maybe people who did that are the reason we read of Mopar ECU's with melted epoxy filler running down the inner fender. The early ECU's (5-pin) required a 5 ohm ballast on the ECU supply pin. Those were the "dual ballast" design. Later ones (4-pin) operated from full 12 V, but I think they still needed a ballasted coil to protect both the ECU and coil. I have had several Holley XR700 electronic ignitions, which was designed a little later than the Mopar ECU, and the manual says to keep the ballast in the system. Their XR3000 does not require a ballast, but was designed for "racing only".
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if you look at a 4 pin ECU diagram you will see the ballast wires do not feed the ECU they come straight from 12 volt switched and one branches off to feed the ballast but its not on the resistor side of it
 

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That's not what Bill is intimating. He's saying that the switched coil current caused by bypassing the ballast is too much for the box to sink. Frankly I tend to agree ON A STREET CAR as well as WHAT KIND OF BOX you are using.

In this day and age, there are MANY Mopar look--alike boxes.

First there were the ORIGINAL Gold, chrome, orange, etc boxes.

Then over the next 40 years there were the many many many many replacement boxes by both brand names such as Standard / Blue Streak and Echlin, and then THEY were dessimated by third world imports.

Last, the "traditional" MP and other orange/ gold/ chrome/ etc boxes may be suffering the same fate IE not being able to trace their heritage here lately.

So, old, pal, you go right ahead--- jumper out that uneeded ballast, jump in 'ol paint' and go out on the desert road.

The point is the box AND the coil might put up with this and they might not.
 
67Dart273 said:
That's not what Bill is intimating. He's saying that the switched coil current caused by bypassing the ballast is too much for the box to sink. Frankly I tend to agree ON A STREET CAR as well as WHAT KIND OF BOX you are using.

In this day and age, there are MANY Mopar look--alike boxes.

First there were the ORIGINAL Gold, chrome, orange, etc boxes.

Then over the next 40 years there were the many many many many replacement boxes by both brand names such as Standard / Blue Streak and Echlin, and then THEY were dessimated by third world imports.

Last, the "traditional" MP and other orange/ gold/ chrome/ etc boxes may be suffering the same fate IE not being able to trace their heritage here lately.

So, old, pal, you go right ahead--- jumper out that uneeded ballast, jump in 'ol paint' and go out on the desert road.

The point is the box AND the coil might put up with this and they might not.
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I don't need to jump the ballast for reliablity; I'm just saying you can, I've ran mopars for quite a few years now and if you buy USA parts you won't have ignition problems, my father has ran them since electronic ignition came out and only ever had one failure of a ballast resistor and one ECU failure
 
USA parts???? Please tell me you are actually joking
 
I went with a one wire alt and this dizzy with their super e-coil. I also went to a Pain(in the ***)Less wiring harness.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-DODGE...es&hash=item4d070ca496&vxp=mtr#ht_6092wt_1142

I like it a lot. It runs fine, cold-hot doesn't matter and I got rid of all that under the hood wiring.
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Not to interrupt you guys, but I've noticed something since I drove the car yesterday and today (weather's been nice), I detected a very low intensity electrical noise-not through the stereo, but if I lean over the coil and listen, I can actually hear it firing...never heard anything like that until I installed this system...almost like a 60 cycle hum, if you will...but I can only hear it below about 1600rpm or so...after that it's pretty much drowned out by other background noise...Del, you ever notice that?
 
Put a capacitor like original from Coil + to ground. If it's more than a few inches of wire to the + connector on the HEI module, put one there also. "Dress" the wiring close to the body if you can. Any parts store / ignition line should show generic "rf suppression" or "radio noise suppression capacitors" (condensers)
 
67Dart273 said:
Put a capacitor like original from Coil + to ground. If it's more than a few inches of wire to the + connector on the HEI module, put one there also. "Dress" the wiring close to the body if you can. Any parts store / ignition line should show generic "rf suppression" or "radio noise suppression capacitors" (condensers)
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I thought the cap was only to dampen/eliminate RF noise?

FWIW, the wiring is as close to the body as it can be...
 
txstang84 said:
Not to interrupt you guys, but I've noticed something since I drove the car yesterday and today (weather's been nice), I detected a very low intensity electrical noise-not through the stereo, but if I lean over the coil and listen, I can actually hear it firing...never heard anything like that until I installed this system...almost like a 60 cycle hum, if you will...but I can only hear it below about 1600rpm or so...after that it's pretty much drowned out by other background noise...Del, you ever notice that?
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They do sometimes make noise, I have noticed it also.
A lot of times you can hear the spark in the distributor too.
 
...just seems odd, I don't think I've ever really been able to so easily hear a coil actually firing. I had an MSD in my Mustang that let out a faint high pitch noise, but it was so light you could barely detect it...this thing is definitely noticeable, well to me anyway.
 
txstang84 said:
Nice looking engine bay there evil
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Thanks. I just wanted to have a reliable car and not have to chase down electrical gremlins,one more problem eliminated. Here's one of the full bay.

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I think by doing this it makes the engine run better and cleans up the engine bay of all the old cracked, brittle wires so when you open your hood it looks clean and simple.
 
Evildart said:
Thanks. I just wanted to have a reliable car and not have to chase down electrical gremlins,one more problem eliminated. Here's one of the full bay.

P8279573.jpg


I think by doing this it makes the engine run better and cleans up the engine bay of all the old cracked, brittle wires so when you open your hood it looks clean and simple.
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I wholeheartedly agree...I hate chasing down wiring issues.
 
txstang84 said:
No worries-I might just relocate the thing if I can't deal with the noise.
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Are you sure it's the coil?
Hearing the spark jump from the rotor to the contacts in the distributor is real common.
I run these on my own car before I ship them and I hear the spark in the distributor.
If you are sure it's coming from the coil, chk the coil body to the bracket tightness. (While the car is running hold the coil body)
Sometimes the coil is a little loose on the bracket, and it may be vibrating from the magnetism.
Insert a small piece of rubber between the coil body and the bracket if that is what it is.
 
I've heard on the "www" that coils can make noise. It MAY be the coil core vibrating, same idea as the core laminations in a 60hz transformer.

"I don't know."
 
TrailBeast said:
Are you sure it's the coil?
Hearing the spark jump from the rotor to the contacts in the distributor is real common.
I run these on my own car before I ship them and I hear the spark in the distributor.
If you are sure it's coming from the coil, chk the coil body to the bracket tightness. (While the car is running hold the coil body)
Sometimes the coil is a little loose on the bracket, and it may be vibrating from the magnetism.
Insert a small piece of rubber between the coil body and the bracket if that is what it is.
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I'll give that a try-I thought it was mounted solidly, but I'll check it out.

And yes, the sound is emanating from the coil...I can hear it best when my ear is right next to it
 
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