HEI in Mopar ECU casing

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Wow guys! Great job!! Very interested on how these work out for you!

Also if I read this correctly, you can just hook it up to the factory harness. But you should remove the ballast resistor, (then what do you do with the wires that connect to that), just connect them together? And then switch to a different coil?

That's about it.
When I put my HEI on I cut all the wires for the ballast, module and coil off right at the harness.
Then I connected the start and run wires together and used that for ignition power to the ecoil, right at the spot where the ballast wires exited the harness.
Sure did clean up a lot of wires off the engine and firewall.

I have also built two like in this thread and sold them both to owners who wanted HEI with a stock look.
 
Can't wait to test it but my Dart is in bits and pieces for now.

You can just hook it up to the factory harness but you need to bypass the ballast like this: http://www.4secondsflat.com/ballast bypass.jpg


So it appears your just running a jumper wire across the terminals but yet its still going thru the resistor? Or am I missing something here?
 
So it appears your just running a jumper wire across the terminals but yet its still going thru the resistor? Or am I missing something here?

the resistor won't come into effect if there is a straight wire there, remember current takes the path of least resistance, you can get the ballast resistor that has a straight wire through it too so it looks completely normal
 
I'm just going to use a bypass wire outside on the ballast, like in the link. Because if the HEI module should fail and you have a long way home, You can just cut the bypass wire and plug in a Mopar ECU which you should have as a back up in the car.
 
Just wanted to say that the statement that current takes the path of least resistance is false. Current will take whatever path that is available. It is similar to water pipes, if you have 1/4 inch tubing off of a 14 inch water main, some water will still come out the tubing, even though the 14 inch water main is the path of least resistance and will obviously carry the most water.
Rod
 
Just wanted to say that the statement that current takes the path of least resistance is false. Current will take whatever path that is available. It is similar to water pipes, if you have 1/4 inch tubing off of a 14 inch water main, some water will still come out the tubing, even though the 14 inch water main is the path of least resistance and will obviously carry the most water.
Rod

But if you have a 14 inch pipe and then a 1/4 inch pipe comes off of that and then rejoins it further downstream, you still get the 14 inch pipe worth of water at the end.
Even though the resistor is there, the coil still gets a full 12 volts along with the amperage carrying capability through the bypass.
 
But if you have a 14 inch pipe and then a 1/4 inch pipe comes off of that and then rejoins it further downstream, you still get the 14 inch pipe worth of water at the end.
Even though the resistor is there, the coil still gets a full 12 volts along with the amperage carrying capability through the bypass.

I am a Certified Safety Professional and just don't like the statement that current takes the path of least resistance. Many people have gotten shocked by thinking they were completely safe by believing it.
 
Well, LOL you do have to be smart enough to understand "what the quip" means.

I can well remember back in my Motorola -911 -dispatch -upgrade days, that an electrician working with us looked me right in the eye and said "as long as you're grounded you're OK."
 
Well, LOL you do have to be smart enough to understand "what the quip" means.

I can well remember back in my Motorola -911 -dispatch -upgrade days, that an electrician working with us looked me right in the eye and said "as long as you're grounded you're OK."

If you are "grounded', it means there is a potential current path from the source, through you, and to the ground. Sounds like a recipe for electrocution.
 
I'm just going to use a bypass wire outside on the ballast, like in the link. Because if the HEI module should fail and you have a long way home, You can just cut the bypass wire and plug in a Mopar ECU which you should have as a back up in the car.

good idea
 
If you are "grounded', it means there is a potential current path from the source, through you, and to the ground. Sounds like a recipe for electrocution.

That's right.
Actually the phrase should be that electricity will take ALL paths to ground.

I had some idiot electrician tell me that you can't get shocked by touching (grounding yourself) to a metal faucet if you have PVC plumbing because the PVC does not conduct electricity and neither does water.
He said that the metal plumbing is what conducts the electricity.

I laughed and asked him if he wanted to do an experiment.
 
if he thinks water doesn't conduct electricity ask him to pee on an electric fence!
 
Extremely pure water is not a good conductor of electricity. However, almost all water has a high amount of dissolved chemicals such as sodium chloride (table salt) in it that makes water very conductive in almost all settings short of a laboratory where the water can be de-ionized. Pee is very salty, hence, would be an excellent conductor of electricity.
 
Way to stay on track...


actually marking this thread for reference. :D
 
How did you know?
That was the exact experiment I was going to have him do. :D
I was raised on a dairy farm and cousins and other kids coming to visit were always gullible. Of course I had already found out for myself when I was younger.
 
Well, LOL you do have to be smart enough to understand "what the quip" means.

I can well remember back in my Motorola -911 -dispatch -upgrade days, that an electrician working with us looked me right in the eye and said "as long as you're grounded you're OK."

If you are "grounded', it means there is a potential current path from the source, through you, and to the ground. Sounds like a recipe for electrocution.

I know that full well
 
Actually, water does NOT necessarily conduct electricity, depending on minerals, etc, "your mileage may vary." If I get time, I'll take a length of tubing and see what the resistance of some random "lengths" of local water actually are.

I was appalled, until I learned better, that power companies sometimes wash down insulators with water.

According to this:

We use demineralized water that has a resistivity of 20,000 ohm's an inch. Minimum resistivity required is 1,100 ohms an inch. Not to mention it's not a continuous stream of water but many droplets of water.


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3zHdnyKBYw"]Pressure washing energized insulators. - YouTube[/ame]

This here, this be some big *** joltage

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CufdY8Ty13A"]Hotline Washing Insulator.flv - YouTube[/ame]
 
Sorry no updates since I'm doing a bigger restoration on my Dart. Going to paint the ECU casing black and put the correct electronic ignition decal that I bought. Will post as soon the ECU is painted but the final installtion will take some time since it's months away from putting the engine in the bay again.
 
I put the HEI module inside a factory orange box for that stock look. Im in the process of putting a bunch of parts in the car and this is one of them that I want to do this weekend. Im excited to try it out.
 
I put the HEI module inside a factory orange box for that stock look. Im in the process of putting a bunch of parts in the car and this is one of them that I want to do this weekend. Im excited to try it out.

Stock style coil?
 
I went to the full GM TBI system, with computer controlled HEI, heated O2, Knock sensor, speed sensor, and electric cooling fan on a 65 2 barrel 273
 
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