Hello everyone, I have been out of commission for a little while.

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My383duster

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I'm starting to rebuild the right side upper & lower ball joint's on the Duster that I crashed several months ago. I have a question about the lower knuckle arm with the built in ball joint.(It has the big brads that hold the ball joint arm to the lower control arm.) Do I grind down the brads on one side,push them out and replace with grade 5 or 8 bolts???.. I think this is how I did it years ago on the driver's side when I replaced the ball joint's. I have got the right fender , fender well,core support all removed and ready to put her back together with parts from a complete 73' Duster that I bought for$500.00 bucks.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas and new year.

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If you are talking about the lower control arm, the part that you are referring to is part of the control arm not the ball joint. See pics.

There are no "built in" ball joints, and no grinding needed.

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OUCH!!! How much of that do you plan on replacing? It might be bent behind the suspension. Does the door open and close alright? Chassis header had to compromise some integrity of the chassis.
 
Might have to chain that down to a frame rack to pull those front subframe rails back to square.

Easy check, check the K-member 4 mount bolts with a diagonal measurement to some of the bottom holes in the rear sub frame. Should be within 1/8" to be in spec.

Can do the same measurements when you start to get the replacement lower control arms in at the outter ball joint bolts.

See that everything squares off, otherwise got to give her a pull.

Those K-members can bend and twist too.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
The lower ball joint is part of the steering arm and replaced as a unit. The ball joint stud is what connects it to the lower control arm. The two mounting bolts that go through the lower ball joint/steering arm attach it to the spindle. You need to remove the rotor to get to the other side of those bolts to remove them. Looks like you need a new strut rod too. Hopefully you have all the parts you need off your donor car.
 
Thank you sir, You are correct on that.I made a mistake about this.I was looking at it when it was still all together, after I got it apart just a bit ago I seen it. Sorry about that.
 
Bodyperson said:
OUCH!!! How much of that do you plan on replacing? It might be bent behind the suspension. Does the door open and close alright? Chassis header had to compromise some integrity of the chassis.
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I have already checked it all out.When I built this duster 20 something year's ago I made my own frame connector's out of 1/4" inch angle iron.I welded the iron together to fit the front & rear frame tightly,then welded & bolted it all together.It looks a lot worse than it actually is but frame is still straight due to these 90 pound each frame connector's.I appreciate the info.
 
My383duster said:
I have already checked it all out.When I built this duster 20 something year's ago I made my own frame connector's out of 1/4" inch angle iron.I welded the iron together to fit the front & rear frame tightly,then welded & bolted it all together.It looks a lot worse than it actually is but frame is still straight due to these 90 pound each frame connector's.I appreciate the info.
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And yes sir the doors still open and close like new.
 
George Jets said:
Might have to chain that down to a frame rack to pull those front subframe rails back to square.

Easy check, check the K-member 4 mount bolts with a diagonal measurement to some of the bottom holes in the rear sub frame. Should be within 1/8" to be in spec.

Can do the same measurements when you start to get the replacement lower control arms in at the outter ball joint bolts.

See that everything squares off, otherwise got to give her a pull.

Those K-members can bend and twist too.

☆☆☆☆☆
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Yes Sir, I just explained to" Bodyperson" I built my own frame connector's with 1/4" angle iron that are welded & bolted together frame to frame.. Thank you for the input.I appreciate it sir.
 
cudamark said:
The lower ball joint is part of the steering arm and replaced as a unit. The ball joint stud is what connects it to the lower control arm. The two mounting bolts that go through the lower ball joint/steering arm attach it to the spindle. You need to remove the rotor to get to the other side of those bolts to remove them. Looks like you need a new strut rod too. Hopefully you have all the parts you need off your donor car.
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Yes Sir, I was looking at it when it was still all together and once I got it taken apart a little while ago I see that the knuckle is the only thing that has the big brads.My mistake, Thank you for your input.I appreciate it.
 
My383duster said:
Yes Sir, I was looking at it when it was still all together and once I got it taken apart a little while ago I see that the knuckle is the only thing that has the big brads.My mistake, Thank you for your input.I appreciate it.
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Yes Sir I have all the parts I need except for a windshield.I have 2 extra windshield's but someone decided to bust them up when I had them behind my shop!!. It's all good because I know who busted them up and they will pay for that!!.
 
That strut rod bent from the K-member moving back. I can almost guarantee you the frame rail is twisted as is the K-member.You can see in the picture the rail is kinked between the K-member to rail bolts. I would put the whole front clip on from your doner car.

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My383duster said:
I'm starting to rebuild the right side upper & lower ball joint's on the Duster that I crashed several months ago. I have a question about the lower knuckle arm with the built in ball joint.(It has the big brads that hold the ball joint arm to the lower control arm.) Do I grind down the brads on one side,push them out and replace with grade 5 or 8 bolts???.. I think this is how I did it years ago on the driver's side when I replaced the ball joint's. I have got the right fender , fender well,core support all removed and ready to put her back together with parts from a complete 73' Duster that I bought for$500.00 bucks.Any advice would be greatly appreciated.Hope everyone has a wonderful Christmas and new year.

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That just sucks, glad no one was hurt. Good luck on the repairs.
 
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