help broken valve cover bolt

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CrazyPete

CrazyPete

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Well I don't know how I did it but I gotta get this sucker fixed tried drilling it out broke 2 drill bits and tried eazyouts to no progress I need to know sizes and any advise
 
Heat the area around the bolt.
Melt candle wax around it, so it soaks down in the thread. Bee's wax is better if you can find it.
Try spinning it out with a left hand drill bit.
 
Got a Mig? any of it left? weld a nut to it.


I got yelled at for suggesting this, but I've SEEN this done. IF IF IF you are "well qualified" with an oxy / acet torch, you can blow bolts out of cast iron with a cutting torch.

Wayyyyy back in the 70's when working part time at the Navy Auto Hobby Shop at Miramar, some guy broke a bolt for a fuel pump on a Falcoon. Broke off a bit and or easy out. "What to do?" He wants to know

I told him IF you find someone who KNOWS how to used a torch..................

So he, dildo, stupid person, the moron of the day, goes up and checks out the torch from the toolroom

..............and proceeds to change the fuel pump mounting boss into a smoldering wreck of melted I'm - not - sure - what -all. And, he's mad at ME because "I told him to do this."
 
That sucks Pete. I can't think of any wiz bang way either, other then all of the above...

Could be a good excuse to buy some of those "new fangled alunimum" heads...:D.

Good luck! As cold as it's been, it may be froze...literally...lol.
 
You may be able to put a small chissel between the threads and tap it with that to break it loose.
 
Might weld enough to the end, even if it's flush, and carefully back it out with small vice grips. The heat from the weld helps a lot so get on it fast. Can't tell you how many broken exhaust studs I have removed that way.
 
I've used a dremel tool to cut a screwdriver slot in broke off bolts. I then use heat and screw driver or impact screwdriver. I've had good results with this as long as the broken blot is flush or a little above the surface.
 
All they do is go into the hole and expand the fastener against whatever it's screwed into. Usually breaks the ease out off. Your best bet is to do what Del suggested. Stick a nut on top and build up weld until you weld it to the nut, then back it out. You have to be precise and not weld to the head, just weld the bolt to the nut.
 
Well I think I got it still need to retap it ended up buying some reverse drill bits and drilling the hole out big worry resolved thanks guys this has been bugging me for some time the kid I got the motor from broke it tomorrow I'll retap it once I figure out the size
 
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For future....
After soaking with penetrant try a good pneumatic engraver. Use it like a mini impact hammer.
 
stud that hole ASAP. Tapped holes are notoriously loose if you are new to tapping. You can get a double ended stud that is 2 different sizes so if you tapped it to 7/16, you can still have a 1/4 stud for your valve cover. Those cast covers wouldnt seal missing 1 bolt?
 
CrazyPete said:
Well I think I got it still need to retap it ended up buying some reverse drill bits and drilling the hole out big worry resolved thanks guys this has been bugging me for some time the kid I got the motor from broke it tomorrow I'll retap it once I figure out the size
Click to expand...


Valve cover bolts should be 1/4 x 20 thread.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Ease outs suck juicy dead arctic gay diseased monkey buttholes. All they do is go into the hole and expand the fastener against whatever it's screwed into. Usually breaks the ease out off. Your best bet is to do what Del suggested. Stick a nut on top and build up weld until you weld it to the nut, then back it out. You have to be precise and not weld to the head, just weld the bolt to the nut.
Click to expand...

If you can weld a next size down or smaller washer through the hole to the broken stud/bolt then you can weld a nut to the washer. The washer acts as a guide to keep weld off the other surface.
 
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