HELP Cylinder Head

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theFightingFew

Always Learning/1975 Valiant Custom/1974 Valiant
Joined
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I have to do work on my 75 Valiant cylinder head. It is a peanut head. I was going to buy another 225 for real cheap that also had a peanut head so I could do a dry run and get some practice in but didn't make it in time. So I hopped on FB and picked this one up for $40 to practice on. It came out of a Power Wagon and it has plug tubes. Stamped code on the bottom reads 7918PT?
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Anyway... The exhaust valves sit deeper than the intake valves went seated all the way...
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Also the valve guides are different heights between intake and exhaust... Is this "normal" for this type of head? I threw a bit of grinding on an exhaust side and it looks like this
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My main question is whether this head needs/should have new seats put in or should I lap away? After cleaning of course...

I thought I could use this one temporarily while I get my peanut head right since this car is my daily so I didn't plan to invest a lot in it.

Thoughts? Thanks.

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PS - This is what it looks like if I even out the top of the valve stems
 
The 7918PT is the part number imprint from the head gasket. lol As stated, it needs exhaust seats installed. Getting the valve stem heights equal or very close is fairly critical, even on one with adjustable rockers. Also, that's an early (pre 1968) head. The chamber isn't quite as efficient, but it's still a decent head.
 
@RustyRatRod thanks as always. I was wondering why the #s were backwards! I do remember reading somewhere to avoid the heads with the "dime" (maybe in the Dutra book) but I figured it was a cheap enough learning experience... Definitely not as nice as your closed chamber head but if it can keep me driving while I get my original one run'n right I'll be happy!
 
@RustyRatRod thanks as always. I was wondering why the #s were backwards! I do remember reading somewhere to avoid the heads with the "dime" (maybe in the Dutra book) but I figured it was a cheap enough learning experience... Definitely not as nice as your closed chamber head but if it can keep me driving while I get my original one run'n right I'll be happy!

No reason whatsoever to avoid them. They aren't the devil. The 68 and up head is a little better, but not by a mile. I wouldn't sweat it.

I probably have a revised (68 and up) head here that's a much better core than that. I would be happy to romp a basic valve job on one and give you a good deal on it......but shipping would hurt. It would even have factory hardened seats.
 
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