When using a good diaphragm clutch set up the brace and spring are useless.HD pedals have the brace,big spring,and bearings instead of bushings....yours will.be strong enough for what you want
Good to know thanksWhen using a good diaphragm clutch set up the brace and spring are useless.
I have never seen a diaphragm clutch in a stock SBM A-body; those were a Chevy thing.Was planning on using a stockish type diaphragm clutch but undecided.
Those numbers are very realistic with a well built 360 even with a stock stroke vs the 4” stroke. I built a 360 last year for a friends Gen 1 ram with aluminum heads edelbrock (if I do again will use trick flow) an xe274 cam which is Pretty mild with those heads and it’s was a ripper. Never did dyno it but 350hp and 400-425 tq was the estimate on desktop dyno per compression, head flow numbers, performer rpm/ and air gap intake with both and headers and a 2.5” exhaust.I have never seen a diaphragm clutch in a stock SBM A-body; those were a Chevy thing.
With street gears, 3.55s or less, your stroker will need a serious clutch to not slip at lower rpms when you get on it.
If you put a "bit of a cam" in a 360, you'll again need a decent clutch as she gets on the pipe, in the middle of Second gear.
A 360 with a bit of compression and a bit of a cam, cranks 430hp out real easy. But more importantly, she could easily put out 425 ftlbs. Check this out;
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https://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/2360dynotestfeb2000.php
I built a combo like this with a 223/110 cam, back in year 2000. The cam let go in 2004 and then I installed the HE3037AL, same as in this article, but at 11/1 Scr(Alloy heads). Very potent street combo, with a Commando 4-speed and 3.55s. My car is 3650 with me(220) in it.