I totally do not know what the hint is lol.
Thanks though, she's not perfect but she is ours. I can't wait to get my headers and exhaust cleaned up and put on.
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- Thread starter DentalDart
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I totally do not know what the hint is lol.
Thanks though, she's not perfect but she is ours. I can't wait to get my headers and exhaust cleaned up and put on.
I can look up how to drain it (if there is anything in it) and maybe try doing 134a, from most of the reading I did it's not any better than r12 just cheaper correct? Does it matter which viscosity PAG oil to get?
start thinking about converting to R134. good place for brackets Products: AirCon Compressor Brackets - Bouchillon Performance Engineering
the hint, hint is saying someone here might have the car that motor came out of and wouldn't mind having it back
the hint, hint is saying someone here might have the car that motor came out of and wouldn't mind having it back
I have a 68 GTS that is missing its original 340.
Awe dang, I'm sorry. This motor came out of a rusted gt. Po said he stripped the whole car and was putting everything in this car. He still has tons of parts left that I didn't take because lack of space for it all.
Idk if I'd ever get rid of the 340. I don't know much about this engine but hopefully I'll learn to love it. I do think a new hemi swap would be fun one day .
and 340 swingers
My apologies!
I picked up some pag oil and r134a as my system has no freon in it to blow cold but the new refrigerant adapters do not attach to the old school screw on compressor nipple to add the freon. fml
I picked up some pag oil and r134a as my system has no freon in it to blow cold but the new refrigerant adapters do not attach to the old school screw on compressor nipple to add the freon. fml
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Two things about 124 vs r 12
It is not as efficient
I replaced the condenser in my truck with one from a dual air 68 van
second 134 will leak in places where Freon will not that's why they went to dual barrier hoses and better seals
an aux fan will help in stop and go driving
I have mine where it turns off at 30 mph
a test is to put big shop fan in front of your ride and turn it on and see if the AC temp drops- mine did
It is not as efficient
I replaced the condenser in my truck with one from a dual air 68 van
second 134 will leak in places where Freon will not that's why they went to dual barrier hoses and better seals
an aux fan will help in stop and go driving
I have mine where it turns off at 30 mph
a test is to put big shop fan in front of your ride and turn it on and see if the AC temp drops- mine did
So it's better to get new hoses, condensor, drier and all? Then add in the 134a? Should I add in a new radiator as well.
that i don't know. i would at least have yours checked out and run a shroud. then see how it does. on my dart i pieced it together. brackets and compressor from the same place, condenser, dryer and a few other parts from Arizona Mobil Air. had a mobile A/C guy come to the house and make the lines and charge it. just do some research, you'll be good
just realized i wasn't too clear. i was talking about if you needed a new radiator. going to r134 will need new hoses, condenser and drier
Ah I see!
Yea my radiator seems fine... Except for the fact that I drove it around after adding some pag/r134a and coolant overflowed all over my garage after maybe it needs better cooling
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
are we talking about water radiator or ac condenser
A lot of Freon R12 systems were undersized in the first place and are inadequate for 134
So measure carefully and find the largest condenser that will fit if you are going to all the trouble to convert
plug all the holes in your core support
run a spoiler/ valance
obviously a shroud
and a thermostatically controlled fan with lots of blades
I run 9 but I'm Magnum reverse/ serpentine rotation
new GM reverse is 11 blades
more blades with less pitch is quieter
on MY 92 Dakota there is a service bulletin which raised the thermostat fan by 10 degrees and went from 7 blades 3" pitch to my current 9 at 2.5 inch pitch
BIG DIFFERENCE
forget flex fans etc
Now some news from the past
first year of 134 Ford made no changes- lots of complaints so with a service bulletin and for the next year they added an electric fan (a puller hidden in the shroud)
and made the HD Police Taxi/ trailer tow cooling available to more geographical areas standard
no factory spends these kinds of bucks without a very good reason
We did tests for Ma Mopar on the famous "Baker Grade" out by Death Valley
Ma was having overheating in slow speed stop and go driving up hills- like when there was an accident.
Turns out that the tail wind was faster than the vehicle and recycling hot air from under the vehicle up and back around through the radiators.
Fix was valances/ spoilers
even a small one helps
Fun Times
A lot of Freon R12 systems were undersized in the first place and are inadequate for 134
So measure carefully and find the largest condenser that will fit if you are going to all the trouble to convert
plug all the holes in your core support
run a spoiler/ valance
obviously a shroud
and a thermostatically controlled fan with lots of blades
I run 9 but I'm Magnum reverse/ serpentine rotation
new GM reverse is 11 blades
more blades with less pitch is quieter
on MY 92 Dakota there is a service bulletin which raised the thermostat fan by 10 degrees and went from 7 blades 3" pitch to my current 9 at 2.5 inch pitch
BIG DIFFERENCE
forget flex fans etc
Now some news from the past
first year of 134 Ford made no changes- lots of complaints so with a service bulletin and for the next year they added an electric fan (a puller hidden in the shroud)
and made the HD Police Taxi/ trailer tow cooling available to more geographical areas standard
no factory spends these kinds of bucks without a very good reason
We did tests for Ma Mopar on the famous "Baker Grade" out by Death Valley
Ma was having overheating in slow speed stop and go driving up hills- like when there was an accident.
Turns out that the tail wind was faster than the vehicle and recycling hot air from under the vehicle up and back around through the radiators.
Fix was valances/ spoilers
even a small one helps
Fun Times
Coolant from the radiator. Opened the radiator cap and it has all kinds of grime in the radiator. I think it needs to be pulled off and flushed. Seems like all the little things on this car really start to add up in price
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
flush the block too
does block have drain plugs
and how are your core plugs
block flush can remove the grime keeping them from leaking
and the ones behind the trans are a PITA- well they all are
does block have drain plugs
and how are your core plugs
block flush can remove the grime keeping them from leaking
and the ones behind the trans are a PITA- well they all are
I have no clue if the block has drain plugs.
This weekend my plan is.
Title and register
Oil change
Spark plugs
Coolant flush (was actually looking at adding a cold case radiator)
Find fan shroud
Core plugs- idk where these are but I will find them
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
core plugs aka freeze plugs-
where they dump the sand mold out of the casting
steel ones rust out if motor has been run with water only-
on each side and in the rear of the block
not to mention the aluminum water pump is
corroded
have the plugs out run a compression test
ck cap rotor wires etc
another check is to rotate the crank fwd and back and see if there is slop in the timing chain- you can watch the rotor
where they dump the sand mold out of the casting
steel ones rust out if motor has been run with water only-
on each side and in the rear of the block
not to mention the aluminum water pump is
corroded
have the plugs out run a compression test
ck cap rotor wires etc
another check is to rotate the crank fwd and back and see if there is slop in the timing chain- you can watch the rotor
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