with the plate on the backExactly the reason I use a five blade AC water pump...
with the plate on the backExactly the reason I use a five blade AC water pump...
Kinda agree , but what kind of engine are talking about , 500'' and 700 h.p. ? Not likely--------jmo
It doesn't matter. If the fan is close enough to the radiator and pump speed is correct then the shroud really gets in the way (just like the fan) at MPH above about 10-15 MPH. It's not that complicated. The shroud is a fix for the fan being too far from the radiator. That's all. It ain't magic.
It doesn't matter. If the fan is close enough to the radiator and pump speed is correct then the shroud really gets in the way (just like the fan) at MPH above about 10-15 MPH. It's not that complicated. The shroud is a fix for the fan being too far from the radiator. That's all. It ain't magic.
Makes a hell of a lot of diff. , h.p. creates heat , the more u have the harder it is to keep cool. Mine absolutely wont cool w/o a shroud. And I have had the fan in about every position it can be put in, and about every fan known to man , I did experimenting with diff. combinations "all" last summer , to come up w/ what I`m running.
Here is a issue I dealt with. I am not saying this is yours, But it would be worth checking.
I saw your motor is boosted. I have seen a blown head gasket take out a aluminum radiator . On newer cars they blow the plastic tanks off.. On welded race radiators it blows the tubes in the radiator up. They become round instead of being oval. When this happens it prevents air flow . You cannot physically see this in the car.
I noticed this with an electric fan running and I didn't feel air when standing at the fender. I put a piece of paper in front of the radiator and there was little to no suction. After I took the radiator out you could not see through it with a light behind it. I bought a new radiator. Cooling problems were gone.
High instant pressure from a high pressure head gasket failure will cause this when you blow a head gasket at rpm's or under high boost. As well as a radiator freezing. Just something I would check. You never know. A radiator not only needs to flow water . It needs to flow air . I have seen front mount inter-coolers and trans-coolers do the same thing.
Maybe your car has a air flow problem? If you have room to hold a bright light behind the radiator you should clearly see it through what ever is in front of it in all core areas. Easy to check. If you restrict air flow this could be your problem.
Just some info you may want to use. Steve
Do you have enough timing at idle?
I would use a 7-blade factory fan. The blades of those are usually made from aluminium.
Are you running a thermostat without a restrictor? I have seen flowing to fast through the radiator can be an issue.
Makes a hell of a lot of diff. , h.p. creates heat , the more u have the harder it is to keep cool. Mine absolutely wont cool w/o a shroud. And I have had the fan in about every position it can be put in, and about every fan known to man , I did experimenting with diff. combinations "all" last summer , to come up w/ what I`m running.
Exactly...every combo has different cooling needs.
Some don't need a shroud, some do.
It's not a case of if you park the fan close enough to the radiator it'll work every time.
It wont.
Again, how much power do you make at idle? Or cruise? If you have heating issues in those conditions, it's not a shroud that will fix it. The shroud is used when the fan is too far from the radiator. That's all. It's not magic.
It also won't fix other issues like the water pump turning to slow.
Ended up w/ the fan 1/2 and 1/2 out , aprox 1" from the 28x19 crossflow , a little closer on the bottom .
I`d buy a smaller water pump pulley in a heartbeat , "if" I could find one the same depth as my hemi type single belt pulleys ! It`s 1 to 1 now -------
An old wives tale from a mopar performance recommendation. In the direct connection manual and the Mopar performance updated Manual. 1" hole in a plate. When my rad. tubes were blown up went down to a 5/8 and it did make a difference at idle with a CSR electric pump. My wifes tail felt the same.This is just not true. Like the power valve timing issue, this old wives tale needs to die.
I had a 17 lb cap on that super charged truck. Blew the head gasket when we under drove the charger for a test. The pressure was so great all at once it destroyed the radiator and blew the heater hoses off. That little cap had no chance to relieve the instant pressure. But if you never had a failure and your radiator is good. That is not your problem than.I can see light through it and my radiator cap is 16lbs. Never blown a head gasket. My radiator is just a little small for the engine I think. I also run a thermostat.
An old wives tale from a mopar performance recommendation. In the direct connection manual and the Mopar performance updated Manual. 1" hole in a plate. When my rad. tubes were blown up went down to a 5/8 and it did make a difference at idle with a CSR electric pump. My wifes tail felt the same.
The manual is wrong. I have to run a thermostat. If I don't, it won't get any temp in it.
Think about it. The longer the coolant stays in the block, the HOTTER it gets. If the radiator can't get rid of the heat, adding more heat only makes it worse.
Again, it's an ignorant old wives tale that coolant needs to stay in the radiator longer. The book is wrong.
Come to think of it, I can't think of a Chrysler book I have that says to keep the coolant in the radiator longer. It's just wrong and doesn't make sense. Just like multi pass radiators.
Moroso Water Outlet Restrictor Kits 63440
My motor has no bypass. The coolant system was designed at a NASCAR shop. I do not need a stat that can fail or the washers.
Due the water leaving my block is restricted with a one inch hose. This prevents cavatating which causes steam pockets. I am using a one inch upper hose. No stat can create cavatating. you must restrict the flow if your radiator is to large or with a high flow pump.
But like always you seem to know everything. I would rather believe the experts then your misguided advice as always. Sometimes I think you just make up stories to cause conflict. There are time you are correct but not often
Like I said I went to a 5/8 washer to see if I can drop the cavitating more . I was alright with the one inch hose as recommended by a friend Modify Nascar shop foreman Tony Hirshcman. Spotter for Kyle bush. #18 who designed my cooling system for street and track racing.
I did not decide this application or make up a story as you. The experts did. Something you and I are not. But I am learning late in life. Something I can admit.
YOU MUST RESTRICT FLOW LEAVING THE MOTOR AND TRAVELING THROUGH THE RADIATOR IF YOUR RADIATOR CANNOT DO IT. Steam pockets can be caused at idle with a high flow electric pump.
Seams like they all agree with the old Mopar manuals. I believe the later manuals they assumed it should be known. from knowledge learned in the 70's. Almost 50 years ago.
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