help me pick cam re-grind for magnum 360

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younggun2.0

younggun2.0

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I picked up a 5.9L (360) out of a 2000 durango. The engine will be going into a 65 valiant with a 904. factory stall converter and and 8 3/4 with 3:23 rear gears and 26" tall tires. The car is going to be a cruiser for myself and my girlfriend. I would like the car to have a little bit of grunt and sound nice but its not a race car. the girlfriend will be driving it so i dont want her first car to be too much for her. I would eventually put a set of 3:91s in it and let her bracket race the car. I have a eddy performer RPM intake on order and a holley 650dp ready to go. I will be using the magnum exhaust manifolds as well.

who would you recommend for cam profile? looking at having the cam reground while it is out.
 
Oh boy! Oh boy! Best bet is to call up Tim @ bullet cams, tell him what you and your specs and plans with the car, let him recommend one, he does it all day, everyday. Real cool cat. I'm very happy with mine. Or was until I tore my car apart. :D

Before you hang up, ask him what the Intake valve closing degree is at .050, and research how your dynamic compression ratio will work out here, keep it around 7.5-8.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php
 
Great cam choice.Remember to check valve retainer to valve guide clearance.
 
I went with Oregon grind #1357 after talking to them. I have pretty similar goals as you...and the same car. Still piecing together my motor but got the cam back from them and they did a great job. It was about $130 total with shipping. They are located in Vancouver, Wa. which might be convenient to you. Good people, great customer service.
Good luck with your build.
 
Pics of the regrind Oregon Camshaft did for me.
 

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you can run that with the factory valve springs, retainers and locks? what about re-using the roller lifters? how do you know how much longer of a push rod you need?
 
younggun2.0 said:
you can run that with the factory valve springs, retainers and locks? what about re-using the roller lifters? how do you know how much longer of a push rod you need?
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I intend on going with the Magnum EQ heads and stronger springs. It's my understanding that the factory springs won't scale much higher than a stock cam. I wanted to use my original heads but they were cracked between the valve seats which is really common on the Magnums. Not to alarm you but you might want to check yours. On the pushrods I honestly don't know which ones I'll need. I'm certain the originals will be too short for the regrind. I'll reuse the lifters and rocker arms.
 
subcom said:
I intend on going with the Magnum EQ heads and stronger springs. It's my understanding that the factory springs won't scale much higher than a stock cam. I wanted to use my original heads but they were cracked between the valve seats which is really common on the Magnums. Not to alarm you but you might want to check yours. On the pushrods I honestly don't know which ones I'll need. I'm certain the originals will be too short for the regrind. I'll reuse the lifters and rocker arms.
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I originally planned to just throw an eddy intake and a holley on the otherwise stock magnum engine and run it but i have heard that it will be a dog with the stock cam because it is set up to run with the EFI. trying to get the car on the road for as little as possible. its just gonna be a cruiser for the girlfriend. not looking to make a ton of power. hell 250-300hp would be more then enough.
 
The stock Magnum 5/9 with Carb and headers,usually dyno 300-320 h.p,and 400-420 lbs.-ft of torque (with the stock truck cam. Peak power,4800 -5200.
 
Abodybomber said:
The stock Magnum 5/9 with Carb and headers,usually dyno 300-320 h.p,and 400-420 lbs.-ft of torque (with the stock truck cam. Peak power,4800 -5200.
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shitttttt. that would easily put our little valiant into the 13s. might just have to do it that way and see how it turns out.
 
I went through this when I built my magnum

the only trouble with regrinds is that you wont be able to get a lsa under 112 even on a new factory core

if your'e going nitrous later or looking for a cam without a rough idle that'll work
 
just looking for the cheapest/easiest (while staying dependable) way to get the car going and being fun for the lady.
 
Abodybomber said:
The stock Magnum 5/9 with Carb and headers,usually dyno 300-320 h.p,and 400-420 lbs.-ft of torque (with the stock truck cam. Peak power,4800 -5200.
Click to expand...

People will argue you down on that point all day......but you are correct. You and I are both old enough to know that you're talking about GROSS HP. That's the only number I even think about.....or ever have, really.
 
dustoff440 said:
I went through this when I built my magnum

the only trouble with regrinds is that you wont be able to get a lsa under 112 even on a new factory core

if your'e going nitrous later or looking for a cam without a rough idle that'll work
Click to expand...

That's incorrect. A friend and I have had several regrinds done by Oregon. They reground a factory hyd roller for him and got it to 108. Still had plenty of meat left. Remember, a good cam grinder can put that lobe anywhere in relation to the cam core he wants.

Let me clarify somewhat. There are TWO different cores for the Magnum engine. Now I forget which is which. There's the 318 and 360 core. One has a 109 factotry LSA and the other a 113. But still, it was the 113 that they were able to get to 108, so there's room to move them if you find a good grinder.
 
Younggun I have the same engine that I will swap into my Dart, I wanted to do a cam upgrade as well. Since our goals sound similar, the cam regrind that Oregon Cams recommended is shown below:

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Mark

#1236

224/232 @ .050", 274/282 adv, .519"/.528" lift, 112 sep

The cost is $117 to do a reground or $299 to do a new one.

Thanks

ken
1-800-539-9165

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I don't know much about cams / regrinding, and someone here told me that this grind may be a little more aggressive than I may want. The price seems reasonable for a regrind, and the company gets lots of recommendations.

Good luck with it.

Mark
 
bighammer said:
Younggun I have the same engine that I will swap into my Dart, I wanted to do a cam upgrade as well. Since our goals sound similar, the cam regrind that Oregon Cams recommended is shown below:

-------------

Mark

#1236

224/232 @ .050", 274/282 adv, .519"/.528" lift, 112 sep

The cost is $117 to do a reground or $299 to do a new one.

Thanks

ken
1-800-539-9165

----------------

I don't know much about cams / regrinding, and someone here told me that this grind may be a little more aggressive than I may want. The price seems reasonable for a regrind, and the company gets lots of recommendations.

Good luck with it.

Mark
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but then you have to change springs. correct? i think i am gonna just run the completely stock engine with cam and all. just do a eddy performer rpm intake and holley 650 carb with a set of dougs headers and let her rip. i think it will be good real world #'s for the average joe that is looking to do a true junk yard engine swap. then i can gauge the improvements on the cam upgrade later.
 
Anything bigger than stock,needs stiffer than stock springs.
 
Abodybomber said:
Anything bigger than stock,needs stiffer than stock springs.
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think it will float the valves at 5k with stock valve train? does the mopar magnum performance springs allow for more lift or it the lift limited by the valve guide height? I dont want to pull the heads. I can fab a spring compressor and air up the cylinders to swap the springs, they only cost about a 100 bucks too. If its gonna make a huge difference in the engine for less then 400 bucks with a regrind and springs then it maybe worth it to me.
 
younggun2.0 said:
think it will float the valves at 5k with stock valve train? does the mopar magnum performance springs allow for more lift or it the lift limited by the valve guide height?

I certainly would not take the risk of not swapping springs.

I dont want to pull the heads. I can fab a spring compressor and air up the cylinders to swap the springs, they only cost about a 100 bucks too.

Just use a piece of rope. 18" piece of soft 1/2" rope coiled in the cylinder and bring the piston up to hold the valves. Leave enough hanging out the plug hole so you don't lose the rope.

If its gonna make a huge difference in the engine for less then 400 bucks with a regrind and springs then it maybe worth it to me.
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I had the same situation. Used the spark plug adapter, and compressed air. Used a 30 KD valve spring tool. Worked great. If considering a camthe Hughes 1110 springs and retainers give you to .520,.530 lift. By then you come close to the valve guide. If looking for a streetable magnum cam,pm me.I have one.
 
Personally I Think you're pushing the clearance issue at 528 lift. I degreed my cam at 512 lift and i had less than 30 thou clearance from the top of the valve guide to the bottom of the retainer...According to Hughes their retainers eliminate this problem and allow for cams to 600 lift. I bought the 1110 springs ,retainers and locks for about 160 bucks.

stock magnum valve springs are a waste above 5000
 
Magnum,dead on the money. Assembled E.Q heads,out of the box. Hughes 1110 retainer/ stock valve guide seal = .580 clearance.I consider .050" safe. Went with a .529/533 grind.On a 1/5 ratio. I spent the coin,for safeness.
 
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