lets start from the top, last month me and my dad were putting the interior back into my 1974 swinger we had both doors open and I was installing the light bulb back into the dome light, it started to arc then blew the bulb out we got a new one, and replaced it after that, we turned on the head lights and we had no low beams.... we turned on the high beams and wala they worked.... so I took the car out that night and as I Left a light giving it gas the head lights sputtered and boom they burnt out... We replaced the headlights and had no problems for about 5 or 6 drives the other night I am coming home with the car, and once again I hammer into the throttle and the low beams sputter and quit working again! now I have just High beams and I know its just a matter of time before the high Beams go out again..... WHAT GIVES? :banghead:
Help me slant six dan
- Thread starter mopardrt
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
First you need to determine if the headlights are REALLY burning out or if this is a power supply, that is, harness problem
A IF the headlights are actually burning out, then you likely have a problem allowing system voltage to climb to dangerous levels, IE a charging problem.
Measure the battery voltage while running, wiggle connectors, especially the bulkhead connector, and see if the voltage goes up
B If the headlights are simply stopping working, and not actually burning out, you need to go through the harness step by step and find the problem. END TO END
Start with the headlights and the connectors. Are the connectors clean and tight? There is a ground(s) out at the headlights for the harness, and it can easily fail --rust, etc
Get a meter and test light. You have a shop manual? A wiring diagram?
Look at the simplified diagram in the MAD article down the page:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
See where it says "welded splice?" This is a big splice under the dash a few inches down the black ammeter wire. IT feeds off several places, including HEADLIGHT POWER to the headlight switch.
Pull the switch out and inspect the switch/ and connector for heat damage, corrosion, tightness. Power comes out of the switch and goes down to the dimmer switch. The switch itself can be "dodgy" or the connector at the switch can be loose/ corroded. From the switch, high and low beam power goes out through the bulkhead connector WHICH CAN HAVE loose/ damaged/ corroded terminals, and feeds off to the headlights.
You need to find out WHERE you are losing this power
WHEN THE HIGH BEAMS quit, do you have a high beam indicator on the dash? This is IMPORTANT. If you have no headlights, but the high beam indicator WORDS, then it means everything is OK up to the headlight switch and dimmer switch, and that the trouble is either at the bulkhead connector, or out in the engine bay.
A IF the headlights are actually burning out, then you likely have a problem allowing system voltage to climb to dangerous levels, IE a charging problem.
Measure the battery voltage while running, wiggle connectors, especially the bulkhead connector, and see if the voltage goes up
B If the headlights are simply stopping working, and not actually burning out, you need to go through the harness step by step and find the problem. END TO END
Start with the headlights and the connectors. Are the connectors clean and tight? There is a ground(s) out at the headlights for the harness, and it can easily fail --rust, etc
Get a meter and test light. You have a shop manual? A wiring diagram?
Look at the simplified diagram in the MAD article down the page:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
See where it says "welded splice?" This is a big splice under the dash a few inches down the black ammeter wire. IT feeds off several places, including HEADLIGHT POWER to the headlight switch.
Pull the switch out and inspect the switch/ and connector for heat damage, corrosion, tightness. Power comes out of the switch and goes down to the dimmer switch. The switch itself can be "dodgy" or the connector at the switch can be loose/ corroded. From the switch, high and low beam power goes out through the bulkhead connector WHICH CAN HAVE loose/ damaged/ corroded terminals, and feeds off to the headlights.
You need to find out WHERE you are losing this power
WHEN THE HIGH BEAMS quit, do you have a high beam indicator on the dash? This is IMPORTANT. If you have no headlights, but the high beam indicator WORDS, then it means everything is OK up to the headlight switch and dimmer switch, and that the trouble is either at the bulkhead connector, or out in the engine bay.
I had a voltage regulator that was poorly grounded that caused the same problem with blowing bulbs. The screw holes to the firewall were worn out and too loose. A larger screw and cleaning the paint, rust , and corosion took care of the problem. It boiled my battery dry too. When that happens the regulator and alternator work overtime to charge the battery which can't be charged. tmm
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