Help needed with sb 318

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Tooljunkie said:
That’s a loaded question, pull a plug and buy matching ones. Timing is dependant on many things, egr,2/4bbl and distributor model, or year of it. There are just too many variables.

if your mechanic buddy is knowledgeable, let him assess it before you waste a bunch of money on parts. Numbers off carb, it sounds like you need a kit.
Click to expand...

Carb has already been done, and finding a kit was an adventure, as the old Carter 2 bbl has no ID number on it.

I thought the same on the plugs, points, etc. But since there are so many unknowns as to which engine it really is, we had hoped there might be some basic ideas on where to set the timing, dwell, etc. Probably a good idea to check compression too, although she idles well and does not smoke.....black or blue.

I have some iffy video, but if I get a chance, I may whip up a quick youtube for it. You guys would love the transmission linkage. The guy I bought it from didn't even know the correct shift pattern.
 
Long shot, but I'll ask anyway. Anybody SB gearheads close to central MO who are currently sitting things out, starved for entertainment and would like to take a crack at her?
 
H Monster, if I was in Missouri, I would help you out. From Joplin, MO area originally.
Here is my 2 cents.
Starts up OK-Check
Runs for a little bit well-Check
Starts misfiring after short warm up drive-Check
Sounds like your condenser is breaking down. If it is points that is. Had this problem before on a couple of cars. Replace it and enjoy the ride.
On a electronic, the pickup may be causing the same issue. Primarily if the shaft is worn and wobbling around. The vacuum advance pulls on the pickup plate and can shift it out of position, causing a poor signal. Disconnect the vacuum advance and road test.
 
Try these no harm no foul plugs
RC12lyc
RN13LYC
RFN14LY
these extended tip plugs really do not mis they were developed as missing hurts emissions
these are 3/4 reach gasketed plugs- if you have tapered seats post back
If motor is run hard use the 12 if run a little at a time run the 14
these are inexpensive Champions
let's see the old plugs
and run a compression check while the plugs are out
 
Off in a bit to pick up a set of plugs, points, condenser, rotor and some vacuum line from carb to distributor.

Also, the carb does not have a working choke. Not sure if this is a product of mixing apples and oranges (newer 83 block) and older pre-71 carb and ignition system, but what do you make of this setup?

Seems like it has the makings of an auto choke system, but nothing to match up with it on the carb? Or am I just not seeing it?

carb starb.jpg
 
Looks like a manual choke set up on the carb.
The rod for the winder, for the heat-choke is laying towards the front of the engine, (car/truck style).
 
Good news.....bad news.

Good news is I swapped out the condenser.......and she started up and ran.....meaning I didn't do any harm.

Bad news is.....made no difference. Still stalls if you rev the engine. I also swapped out the vacuum hose that runs from the carb to the distributor.......and that made no difference either.

Timing? She does not backfire. She runs ok, so to me, plugs, points, etc. may help, but are not the issue.

Circling back to the carb. History of that.....first thing I did was to pull the old Carter BBD carb....no number on it, but found a kit. Handed carb and kit to a guy who I'm told has done a couple thousand carb kits. Full time job is rebuilding engines.......hobby is building engines for drag strip cars and pulling tractors. I would hope if he did the carb it was done right.
 
This carb photo is of the left side......as for legs on the manifold......I assume you mean exhaust......it has 6.

Again, sometime in the recent past (probably 5 years ago), previous owner replaced original 1969 -1970 era 318 with newer 1983 engine....as per date stamp. No VIN, so probably a generic replacement engine.....and probably used at that. Belief is that for the engine swap, they kept most of the old original stuff like the old carb, etc, and installed those on the newer engine block.

Engine starts easy enough (considering it does not have a working choke), idles well, runs ok at speed....say when cruising downhill or on a flat surface......but stalls under any sudden load....say if you rev it at idle.....any load....like going from cruising downhill to uphill....letting out the clutch from a dead stop, etc. It will pull itself up a hill, but only if you are geared way down and revved up to 3,000 rpm +.

carb left.jpg
 
exhaust- I was asking about your intake but those are not Strombergs
how old is your timing chain?
did your nylon gear slip a tooth?
post up a compression check
try some Champion LY suffix plugs or equivalent when you put your plugs back in inexpensive for testing and they do not miss
RC12LYC colder
RN13LYC
RFN14LY hotter start here
put a vacuum gauge on it and report
cheers
spray some carb cleaner around the base and on both sides of the throttle shafts and see if anything changes
do have a fire extinguisher handy
I also ran a 318 with no choke for years but when I went to snow country I put a manual pull choke on it
 
On the intake manifold......I am assuming it is stock....what came on the replacement engine.....and I may be about to show my ignorance.....but I assume that the manifold is specific to carb type? As in can't mount up a 2 barrel on a manifold intended for a 4 barrel?

Also keep in mind......while I have some basic tools and understanding of all this....but I'm not a mechanic. I can swap out plugs (and know enough to check the gap them.......but don't know what the gap should be).....but don't have other diagnostic tools. Don't have a compression gauge....vacuum gauge or even a timing light. Souped up shade tree guy down the road does, so he may be the one to test all this. I was hoping to pick off the easy stuff first.

As for all the rest, good to keep all that in the back of my mind if something easy doesn't show up first.

One thing I ought to mention.......when the beast showed up here.....it came with the original 75 gallon steel gas tank......including old fuel, rust and water. I took that off and replaced it with a 20 gallon aluminum fuel cell. Also replaced all fuel lines and filters. The old tank had an electric fuel pump pulling from the tank, then sending fuel on to the mechanical pump on the engine. We deleted the electric pump when swapped out the tank. Since she starts and runs.......and will crank up to high rpm's.......fuel pump does not seem to be the issue....but could be wrong about that.
 
My concern about the servicing of the carb was renewed after I found and went through this manual.....

http://c803310.r10.cf2.rackcdn.com/bbd_carburetor_manual.pdf

Again, based on reputation alone, I have (or had) confidence in the guy who did the carb for me......but seeing how specific the service instructions are......can't say for sure it was done to that level. Perhaps guys who know can tell me how close to exactly right it has to be to work.

I would expect shades of gray......to get the absolute best out of a carb......so as to be able to smoke tires, etc........yes. But to rev, and pull a gently load without stalling?
 
I had seen mention of a compression test, did you run and if you did, could you post the numbers? This should quickly determine if the timing set is to blame or what other issues may be at play. As far as the carburetor issue,it may be beyond the point of a standard rebuild. Lately, I haven't seen too many good reman carburetors, either.
 
That machine has no doubt been the source of dread, relief to the initiated, and income for the willing of many a youth on summer break. Everyone should have to spend at least one whole summer loading and putting up hay. That's a whole lot better than riding, jumping down to walk and load, and then climbing back up to ride to the next patch to repeat!
 
Quick update.......first cutting season now completed. Engine did well. Eventually made the same run down the road to deliver bales as shown on the video.....on return trip, she was running well so left it in 3rd to see if she would pull a steep hill. She did with ease, so I worked up the nerve to try 4th gear......which is way faster than the other 3 low speeds. She handled that too and once up to speed, would walk the dog. Didn't have the windshield on, but was close to losing a hat without it. Potentially a big deal, as that means delivery area just went from line of sight to several miles.

Only significant change made from before was the condenser......plus some use. Still needs all the rest checked and a full blown tuneup. But very much workable as is.

Thanks again to all that offered advice!
 
Me again. Due to the age of the ol monster, and in need of some parts....short term....truck tire rims.....long term, maybe a backup engine and transmission.....so have been looking around for a parts donor......and came across a derelict 1975 Dodge D600 truck. Problem being, it appears to have a 361 engine, vs. my 318.

Would that be an easy swap that would bolt up with no mods? Or better to leave that one alone?

Sorry to keep coming here for advice, but you guys know more about these engines than the rest of the Internet combined.
 
H Monster said:
Me again. Due to the age of the ol monster, and in need of some parts....short term....truck tire rims.....long term, maybe a backup engine and transmission.....so have been looking around for a parts donor......and came across a derelict 1975 Dodge D600 truck. Problem being, it appears to have a 361 engine, vs. my 318.

Would that be an easy swap that would bolt up with no mods? Or better to leave that one alone?

Sorry to keep coming here for advice, but you guys know more about these engines than the rest of the Internet combined.
Click to expand...
Leave it alone. A 600 with a 361 would be a nice combo.
 
How about some pic's of the dodge D-600? Also, what size wheels are you looking for? I'm assuming 16 or 16.5 on 8 lug bolt pattern. Does it have split lock ring wheels?
 
Didn't think to grab a picture of the truck. Standard 1975 D600 with stake bed. Sheet metal and interior are in decent shape for the age. Seat was rough.

Glanced at the plates and they were 200? something, so has been parked for a while. Gas tank is missing, so hasn't moved lately and isn't likely to again.

Did get to visit with the owner and he said engine had quit running, but wasn't locked up (when parked) and didn't think it would have a busted block from freezing. So I'm looking at it as an engine core and rebuilt candidate. Part out the rest to help pay for it all.

Rear driver rims on the monster are 7.5 x 20 and split rim widow makers....plus mis-matched tires on life support. That whole ensemble is toast. So these would be 8.25 x 20 and even has aged, but usable tires.

I think I have mentioned it the past, but if not, drive train components on the monster all appear to have been purchased from Dodge.....all seem to be D600 parts. Engine assembly, tranny, rear axle and springs. Front axle, with it's unique power steering arrangement, appears to be hybrid between truck and tractor.
 
Is it the Thompson Ram steering on the front? Many of the HD trucks came with Thompson steering. At first I didn't think you'd be in an advantage to buy the D-600. But it too will have an NP540 so you'd have all the parts for the 361 if you did need to swap it out. You could probably sell the leftovers of it over at ForTrucksOnly.Com
 
361 pistons- price them
does this have sparkplug on the side heads or sparkplug like FE Ford or SBM?
if so they are the HD heads
 
That's a good point. More than likely, a 361 industrial truck engine will have extra thick cylinder walls like the 413 motor home blocks that were cored on 440 blocks. But even if it could be bored to a 383 piston size, paying for an 1/8 inch overbore is still probably going to be fairly expensive.
 
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