Help with Cooling Issue Please

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johnmucci

johnmucci

moparmucci
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Davenport Florida
Ok, my 66 dart went from a 273 v8 to a 360 magnum..I used the 273 water pump etc, so I could keep the existing radiator. Just got the car back, on the highway it runs about 190 degrees...if your in stop and go traffic, it runs up to 210 degrees quickly...that being said, what should I do to make it run cooler?? I am attaching a pic.. I think it has a 22" radiator measurement from bolt hole to bolt hole is about 26" help please, Thanks!
 

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Get a shroud and put a good fan on it. Getting warm at low speed means one thing..... You are not moving enough air through the radiator.
 
A shroud may be hard. For a fan, first tell us what you have now. If you have something like a solid, 4 blade fan, a good fan alone may solve your problem.

How many blades?

Is it a clutch fan?
 
Look for a thermostatic clutch fan for a oem look or a stainless flex fan for a performance look. A shroud will make the system more efficient. You have enough radiator. If you didn't, it would get hotter as you drive on the highway. You just need more help at slower speeds and either fan will help if not cure your problem. Remember, coolant under pressure won't boil intil about 245 degrees so 210 isn't a major concern. tmm
 
Ok, so I had a local radiator shop put a 16" electric fan on my car...I picked it up and its worse now than before..drove it 2 miles and it was running at 210 on a 4 lane highway at 55mph.... drove it back and told em *********....now what???? any suggestions
 
johnmucci said:
Ok, so I had a local radiator shop put a 16" electric fan on my car...I picked it up and its worse now than before..drove it 2 miles and it was running at 210 on a 4 lane highway at 55mph.... drove it back and told em *********....now what???? any suggestions
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Is the new fan in front or behind the rad? is it spinning the right direction? did they install a shroud? I personally would have just found a shroud for your original fan.
 
where did they put the electric fan? Front of radiator as a "pusher" fan doesn't work. I have a 16" SPAL puller fan on mine because of limited room with an electric water pump and it moves 1600CFM. It will keep mine from going over 210, but there is no substitute for an engine driven clutch fan with a shroud in traffic. If you have room and a good alternator, get the highest CFM electric and install it on the engine side of the radiator as a "puller".
 
they installed it on the inside of the radiator..took off the stock fan, so is that a "puller"???...couldn't find a shroud so I tried this...not a happy camper tonight!!!
 
OwdKasd said:
Is the new fan in front or behind the rad? is it spinning the right direction? did they install a shroud? I personally would have just found a shroud for your original fan.
Click to expand...

they took off the stock fan and put the electric fan behind the rad on the engine side...i don't know which way it is spinning...I couldn't find a shroud to fit anywhere...they don't repop them and no one came up shooting with one here on a body... which way should the fan spin???
 
johnmucci said:
they took off the stock fan and put the electric fan behind the rad on the engine side...i don't know which way it is spinning...I couldn't find a shroud to fit anywhere...they don't repop them and no one came up shooting with one here on a body... which way should the fan spin???
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The Fan should spin in the direction that causes the Blades to "Cut" into the air and Pull the air through the radiator and push it towards the engine. The good thing is that they put it on the right side of the radiator.
 
when I took it back to the shop the owner was not there...another guy used some kind of laser light and send where the connection on the intake manifold is the temp was 210..and 190 at the bottom radiator hose as it was at an idle but the temp gauge read 230...i left the car there and told him for what i just paid they are going to make it right or the **** is going to hit the fan!!! oops..no pun intended
 
How about thermostat temp,new stat? Old radiator hoses/new hoses,no springs?zHoses could be collapsing..I noticed,you have A/C,how close is that condensor,to the radiator?As for electric fan assemblies,I did some bookwork,found an ealy y2k Ford Contour Dorman relacement assembly fits,but tight.Built in shrould,2 10"integrated fan assemblies.Dirt cheap,compared to aftermarket.Fits on a 72 Valiant,with a oe 4 core tightly.Had to notch some of the center shroud housing ,to clear.A lot to read hear,use it in the order of the posts.Best of luck.
 
John, when you were at 55mph the fan isn't doing squat. I think "bomber" is right about the stat......do you know what it's rated? I'm guessing 195*. Also, for low speeds and traffic, i don't think a 16" elec. fan is gonna be big enough....imo. And you live in Florida and yes i'm jealous i'm not still there.....lol.
 
Why didn't they leave your existing fan alone and put the electric fan in front of the radiator as a pusher/add'l fan?

The electric fans are marked with an arrow on the blades for the spin direction. You'll have to pull it off more than likely, to see the arrow.
 
Me too,Rick.Cali,ain't what it's cracked up to be anymore.(lol).
 
Before I had this 360 engine built I had the 273 in it with the exact same water pump, hoses and the a/c set up...the motor never ran hot...the engine builder said he put a 185 thermostat...I know i have jumped up many hp with the 360... I just don't know what the answer is??
 
Let's start ,with the engine swap.Bigger engine,more hp.More hp,more heat.More heat=more demand on cooling system.I will guess ,it has a carb on it.If it does,(and if you live yearlong in FL...) I would recommend,a 160 or 170 stat.My guess,when youinstalled the thermostat,the recommended one,for a 5.9 Magnum was installed.They run hot,to pass tailpipe emissions.Start with that.No good,drop the rad off a a trustworthy shop,have em check it.If needed,rod itIn none of your response,you never stated,having checked the condition of the radiator.Done it,myself.
 
johnmucci said:
when I took it back to the shop the owner was not there...another guy used some kind of laser light and send where the connection on the intake manifold is the temp was 210..and 190 at the bottom radiator hose as it was at an idle but the temp gauge read 230...i left the car there and told him for what i just paid they are going to make it right or the **** is going to hit the fan!!! oops..no pun intended
Click to expand...

Sounds like your gauge reads wrong to me.
 
If the laser gun said the temp at the manifold was 210 but the gauge reads 230, you have a bad gauge. They should agree. Also, if you are running 210, that is not hot. That is pretty much ideal. 195-210 is the normal operating temperature for a 360. With the humidity in Florida, you need to make sure your engine does not run too cool or you will build up sludge in your crankcase. This will cause your engine to wear prematurely. The moisture that condenses in your engine from the atmosphere needs to boil off (remember it is pure water not coolant) and that can only be achieved with high enough temperatures. That is why it is important to run an engine (especially in high humidity areas) long enough to get to operating temperatures and why short hops actually kill an engines life. Talk with Don about this and I am sure he will agree.

I am sure Don put the proper coolant mixture in when he installed the engine for you, so your actual coolant boiling point is at least 235, probably higher, so at 210 you have nothing to worry about.
 
One put a high flow 180 deg stat it. Fan shroud and put the fan back one the motor. I had the same problem with a bronco I built. And that fixed my problem. Electric fans are ok if you can use a shroud with them and space them away from thee radiator.
 
FWIW, I had the same issues with my 440 E-body, hot day, lotsa idling, gauge would creep up well past 210. I had a shroud, flex fan, aluminum rad, good hoses, new gauges. Some reading around the 'net talked about straight water being more effective at cooling, so I gave it a try with a 25/75 antifreeze/water mixture, and a bottle of the Water Wetter thrown in to boot. Actually did make a difference. I didn't try straight water before I sold the car. Since you live in Florida, you probably don't need the antifreeze, and the Water Wetter is supposed to provide lubrication, etc.

Just my 2C worth, and I hope I don't start a sh#tst0rm with this comment.
 
Can't say this enough, but be sure that there is NO AIR in the system. Found that was the problem with mine, and I went thru the parts trying to cure it. The reason I figured it out was the guy down the road has a 500" motor with a small radiator and a small 16" fan. He never gets hot, and figured it must be something basic. Found a post about raising the front of the car up and running the car with the cap open. Did this for a few hours (electric water pump), and I went from 190 to 210 degrees to barely having the electric fans come on at all. Couldn't believe it was that darn simple....Be sure the air is out of the cooling system.
 
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