Help with fuel injection issue

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fastcorgigarage

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I've been trying to diagnose and fix my 99 jeep cherokee. She fires right up when cold, but once she gets warmed up it is harder for it to fire up. Since my fuel sending unit was acting up, I replaced that whole set up, but the issue is still there. I started looking for a vacuum leak and didn't find one, so I replaced the purge solenoid, but again the issue is still there. I keep getting random fuel loss surges, rough start up, and slight hesitation when driving from a stop. Although my engine runs a whole lot smoother now. No check engine codes have popped up, and all of the relays and fuses seem to fine. I'm coming up short handed all around, and have came to the conclusion that maybe it is time to start replacing the fuel injectors.
Please any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hook up a fuel pressure gauge.To see if the fuel rail is holding fuel pressure for a while after you shut it off. When the engine is at operating temp. Also check the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator. To see if you have fuel in the vacuum line. I used to work on jeeps at the dealer ship, but that was back in the late 1990. Lol there was a message about jeeps and hard starting. It was something to do with a check valve in the fuel pump/ sending unit. But it sounds like you allready replaced it.
 
Here is the fuel pressure test per the FCM.

I pulled this from the FSM and plan to run the test soon. I'll post the results.

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FUEL PRESSURE
LEAK DOWN TEST
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump
Pressure Test and Fuel Pump Capacity Test.
Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump
outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel
flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply
line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational.
It is also used to keep the fuel supply line
full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After
the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop
to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will
remain in fuel supply line between the check valve
and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has
dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle
(engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric
fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should
immediately (1–2 seconds) rise to specification.
Abnormally long periods of cranking to restart a
hot engine that has been shut down for a short
period of time may be caused by:
² Fuel pressure bleeding past a fuel injector(s).
² Fuel pressure bleeding past the check valve in
the fuel pump module.
(1) Disconnect the fuel inlet line at fuel rail. Refer
to Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses and Clamps for procedures.
On some engines, air cleaner housing removal
may be necessary before fuel line disconnection.
(2) Obtain correct Fuel Line Pressure Test Adapter
Tool Hose. Tool number 6539 is used for 5/16” fuel
lines and tool number 6631 is used for 3/8” fuel lines.
(3) Connect correct Fuel Line Pressure Test
Adapter Tool Hose between disconnected fuel line
and fuel rail (Fig. 1).
(4) Connect the 0-414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure
test gauge (from Gauge Set 5069) to the test port on
the appropriate Adaptor Tool. The DRBt III Scan
Tool along with the PEP module, the 500 psi
pressure transducer, and the transducer-to-test
port adapter may also be used in place of the
fuel pressure gauge.
The fittings on both tools must be in good
condition and free from any small leaks before
performing the proceeding test.
(5) Start engine and bring to normal operating
temperature.
(6) Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure
should be 339 kPa +/–34 kPa (49.2 psi +/–5 psi).
(7) Shut engine off.
(8) Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five
minutes.
(9) If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined
if a fuel injector, the check valve within the
fuel pump module, or a fuel tube/line is leaking.
(10) Again, start engine and bring to normal operating
temperature.
(11) Shut engine off.
(12) Testing for fuel injector or fuel rail leakage:
Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor
Tool between the fuel rail and the test port “T” on
Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30
psi, a fuel injector or the fuel rail is leaking.
(13) Testing for fuel pump check valve, filter/
regulator check valve or fuel tube/line leakage:
Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor Tool
between the vehicle fuel line and test port “T” on
Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30
psi, a leak may be found at a fuel tube/line. If no
leaks are found at fuel tubes or lines, one of the
check valves in either the electric fuel pump or filter/
regulator may be leaking.
Note: A quick loss of pressure usually indicates a
defective check valve in the filter/regulator. A slow
loss of pressure usually indicates a defective check
valve in the electric fuel pump.
The electric fuel pump is not serviced separately.
Replace the fuel pump module assembly. The filter/
regulator may be replaced separately on certain
applications. Refer to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure Regulator
Removal/Installation for additional information
 
After checking, poking, and replacing I finally just sat back and started staring at things, sometimes this helps me focus on the task at hand. I art of over by the passenger fender looking in at the engine, and then I looked down. I saw the purge valve solenoid and noticed it was labeled top on the solenoid and bottom on the purge vent. Then I looked at the two tubes sticking out, as it sat on the bracket the top and bottom part was accurate, but the tube labeled vacuum was on the line without the inspection port. So I went to the parts store, grabbed a new one (the old one is original from 99), installed it the way it came off, and the issue were still there, so I flipped it and Lord behold it fires right up and runs like a top now. Man I feel dumb.
 
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