Help with Hood Scoop Install

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rod7515

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I have a 66 Dart. I purchased a hood scoop from unlimited part number #PR12. Im not a body man so I was wondering what is the best method/procedure for installing this scoop. The scoop is fiberglass while the hood is metal. The scoop does have a 1 1/2" flat all around the bottom but the lip is to the outside and not to the inside. Here are pics of the scoop.
Thanks Rod

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Anyone??? Suggestions or advice?
Its going to be a while until I tackle this but was looking forward as to what I will encounter in order to do this.
Rod
 
Looks simple enough ! With that said, you can quit laughing now! Are you going to cut the hood or just put it on for looks? If you are cutting the hood then get some double sided tape and mount it where you think you want it and get a sharpie and trace the perimeter. Now look underneath and see what braces you will need to cut. Now move it to where you cut the least amount of bracing and don't cut anything . But every day look at it from different angles. You will be surprised how it looked like it was in the right place one day and two days later you will wish it was just a couple inches someplace else. The reason for this is once you stat the cut there is no turning back.Plus this will give you time to post if you are cutting the hood or not.:finga:
 
I've never actually added a fiberglass scoop to any of my cars yet, but I have seen them done a few different ways. I have cut an opening for a supercharger before, but we never added a scoop. As OUTLAW mentioned, take your time figuring out location. A mistake there will ensure you won't be happy when you're done.

You may want to take some measurements first of the location of your carburetor(s) in relationship to the cowl and fenders because it's difficult to tell the carb's location in relationship to the hood when it's closed. Use tape to make marks that you can reference. Not everyone locates their scoops in the same spot. You may want to choose the location partially based on cosmetics. - What looks good to you. Or you may want to locate the scoop in an area that corresponds to a tray that will seal against the bottom of the hood. I've seen plenty of guys mount non-functional scoops that had no opening into the engine compartment.

Once you've figured out where you want the scoop to be you have options on how to mount it. If you're not planning on cutting a hole in the hood you could just pop rivet it in place and leave the rivets showing. Make sure you space the rivets evenly if you do it this way because it will affect the overall cosmetics. There are some really strong adhesives on the market that might eliminate the need for fasteners. If you want the scoop molded onto the hood you may be better off not having rivet heads to contend with.

Hoods get a lot of heat and fiberglass does not expand and contract at the same rate as steel. Eventually a molded on 'glass scoop is likely to crack partially due to vibration and partially due to the differences between the two materials. That is why some guys choose not to mold them in.

If you are going to cut a hole in the hood, study the understructure first. You may want to cut a smaller opening instead of cutting an opening as large as the scoop. The smaller hole may be easier to seal around if you're going to go with a bottom tray or if you don't want a bottom tray that is so large that it covers most of your motor.

If you do want a hole in the hood but are not planning on an underneath carb tray that will seal to the hood you still have options on how to make your cut. You may want a full sized opening that corresponds to the size of the base of the scoop. You can use several methods of marking the hood. I would lay some masking tape down around the perimeter of the scoop's flange. Then I'd pull the scoop back off and make marks on the hood 1&1/2" inward of the inside tape edge. (you said the scoop had a 1&1/2" flat lip around it)

Some guys will just pop rivet it down on top of their hoods. Some will use small stainless steel allen head bolts. If you choose to use bolts you may want to use nutserts so that you don't have to use nuts and washers on the bottom side.

One other thing to consider is the contour of your hood. I don't know of any hood that is completely flat. Before you commit to any cutting or mounting, look to see how well the scoop sits down against the hood. Fasteners will allow you to bow the scoop somewhat, but if your hood has a large crown to it you may have to modify the scoop to get it to fit.

I have seen flanged scoops such as yours installed from the bottom side too. I think some guys do that to avoid the amount of bondo and fiberglass necessary to mold a scoop on that they'd need if there was a lip on top. If you choose that method you may have to cut the inner structure a bit more to allow room for the scoop's lip.


 
I had one of the older style Pro Stock hood scoops that I had molded into my fiberglass hood. I took it to a body shop and had them cut the back lip of the hood and slide the flange under & then mold it in top and bottom. They did and excellent job & matched my paint perfectly. I realize yours is a steel hood and a fiberglass scoop, I'm just putting in my .02 about molding it in from the underside. I've seen too many scoops molded in from the top, & every one starts cracking around the seam on top side.
 
Appreciate the thoughts. Yes I am going to cut the hood and at some point I plan on running a 2x4 tunnel ram set up so the hole will be a big one. Heres where I am at right now. I have the fenders and doors off the car so it will be a couple months until i can sit a hood on it and decide where the location needs to be. I like the idea of mounting it from the bottom but that seems like it would be a little more difficult. Yes, studying the support structure is something I will need to do. Was wondering if instead of using fiberglass matting and resin if I could use 3M 8115 body bond. We used that to do the rear quarter installs. Just didnt know how it would hold to both metal and fiberglass. Any one have any pics of your scoops both top and underside so I can look at mounting methods?
Thanks again
Rod
 
If your engine is still in the car you can still take measurements from the cowl and the inner fenders. You may still be able to bolt the hood on too.

There is one other thing you will need to consider if you're using an air intake system that will extend through the hood. In order to make sure that everything fits together properly you should mock up the tunnel ram, carbs, and air cleaner(s). Then lay some straight edges over the opening for the hood. Take measurements from the cowl and fenders to determine as closely as possible the location of whatever will be sticking through the hood. Transfer those measurements to the hood. You will have to cut for additional clearance but this should allow you to put the hood on the car. Most likely you still will be unable to close it though. When hoods open they do not lift straight up, - they move forward and back. So you will have to cut more for clearance as the hood moves. But after you have that initial hole cut and have the hood back on the car you can use a marker to indicate where the opening will need to be enlarged. Keep trimming but stay conservative until you can get the hood to open and close properly as it clears your engine.

The scoop hole can still be modified to facilitate any sealing options you may decide on or to allow for a bigger hole if you want to mount the scoop from the bottom. But at this point you will be sure that you won't have clearance issues later.

When we cut the hole in our Charger hood we had the hood on and off several times. I think we may have had to trim an additional 3 or 4 inches from the back of our opening to compensate for how much the hood moves as it opens. Our goal was to keep the hole as small as possible because there would be no scoop covering it, but we had to have adequate room for the engine to move around and hood to hinge. We didn't want it to look like we just butchered a hole in it. We would have liked to have had a smaller opening but we had to make sure that our linkage would clear too.

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I know.....this is gonna sound redneck. But I have tried every way possible with those. The best way I found is to use double sided tape on the edges between the scoop and the hood to seal it, position it where you want it and pop rivet that bad boy on using rivets with LARGE diameter washers on them. I've used every kinda bonding method and it always cracks over time. Once painted, you will hardly notice the rivets.
 
I know.....this is gonna sound redneck. But I have tried every way possible with those. The best way I found is to use double sided tape on the edges between the scoop and the hood to seal it, position it where you want it and pop rivet that bad boy on using rivets with LARGE diameter washers on them. I've used every kinda bonding method and it always cracks over time. Once painted, you will hardly notice the rivets.

I don't think it sounds 'redneck' at all. The scoops are sort of a race look anyway so I don't consider the exposed rivets to be out of place. It's easier. It's quicker. And as you say, the problem with cracking is eliminated. I guess it all depends on the final appearance you're trying to achieve.

I think some scoop styles would look better molded in though. If I had a SIX PACK scoop I would want to mold it in so that it looked factory.
 
Appreciate the thoughts. Yes I am going to cut the hood and at some point I plan on running a 2x4 tunnel ram set up so the hole will be a big one. Heres where I am at right now. I have the fenders and doors off the car so it will be a couple months until i can sit a hood on it and decide where the location needs to be. I like the idea of mounting it from the bottom but that seems like it would be a little more difficult. Yes, studying the support structure is something I will need to do. Was wondering if instead of using fiberglass matting and resin if I could use 3M 8115 body bond. We used that to do the rear quarter installs. Just didnt know how it would hold to both metal and fiberglass. Any one have any pics of your scoops both top and underside so I can look at mounting methods?
Thanks again
Rod

I would check out, SEM Products Multi-purpose panel adhesive #39747. ( or ,an equivalent) I did the fiberglass mat/ resin gig, the bonding agent, is much simpler.(and more trustworthy, IMO). 67 Cuda, is dead on, about taking your time ,on mockup.
 
Fillers have come a long way in the last twenty years. I know they put filler on plastic bumpers that has to flex and not crack. You might check with a body man and see what they use for those?
 
I know.....this is gonna sound redneck. But I have tried every way possible with those. The best way I found is to use double sided tape on the edges between the scoop and the hood to seal it, position it where you want it and pop rivet that bad boy on using rivets with LARGE diameter washers on them. I've used every kinda bonding method and it always cracks over time. Once painted, you will hardly notice the rivets.

LOL, redneck north checking in, tape and rivets.......................
 

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3M makes a panel bonding adhesive so strong you couldn't get that scoop off even if you wanted to.

FYI - Rivets cause more problems than what they are worth and they look very tacky too.

Finish the bodywork process off with a good name brand filler and a good name brand urethane (high build) primer.

sscuda
:glasses7:
 
Darn, SSCuda beat me by a hair. I am familiar with the 3M bonding adhesive he is talking about. I have read in several places that a lot of body shops are using it instead of welding in replacement panels. I am a faithful Eastwood customer, and they advertise a reasonably priced panel adhesive system. http://www.eastwood.com/no-weld-panel-adhesive-replacement.html Although I have never used it, It would probably be a good alternative. following the instructions for whatever adhesive you buy, bond the scoop on. After it has fully cured, You will have to use a little filler to form a smooth transition from the scoop to the hood. I would recommend using a reinforced filler like Bondo Hair for the first layer. Then do the finish work with a high quality filler like Evercoat Rage Gold. If you take you time, it will look like it came that way, and you should have no problems with cracking. Or you could use rivets. I'd bond in on and finish it out.
 
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