I just pulled a 360 magnum out of a half ton truck today to put in my son’s 67 Dart and I would like to use the stock EFI for now. I pulled the computer and I have the wiring harness all the way to the fuse box. Do I need the fuse box and more of the wiring including the OBD II port? Any advice, pictures, diagrams, links, etc would be greatly appreciated. I’ve got 2 months to get the motor, an A518 tranny, complete disc brake suspension, and 8.8 Ford rearend with disc brakes installed and working before my son’s graduation. No problem, right? Lol
Help with stock EFI
- Thread starter Truckie
- Start date
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robcuda
Well-Known Member
I got help with my wiring but glad we Kept OBDII port, it will help later. Grab the fuel pump from the donor, you may decide to use it later. Consider how to provide fuel, you can do a Tanks Inc. tank or fuel cell in trunk with stock pump. Also consider grabbing the instrument panel and wiring for it from donor, some have used it.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There "are" some simplified diagrams floating around but the complete answer is
You need the exact model/ make/ year etc, and whether or not the thing has security I believe
Best reference is a factory shop manual, and a few of them are floating around the internet.
Problem with factory diagrams is that they are all split up
I would pull all the wiring you can get, back to the tank etc
You need the exact model/ make/ year etc, and whether or not the thing has security I believe
Best reference is a factory shop manual, and a few of them are floating around the internet.
Problem with factory diagrams is that they are all split up
I would pull all the wiring you can get, back to the tank etc
My thinking for fuel was to use any electric fuel pump and the stock tank. Will that work?
robcuda
Well-Known Member
Yes it will work and some have had success going this route. Maybe someone will chime in that did it that way. They key is to get the fuel pump in the tank to keep it cool. If you have room in the trunk, a ebay fuel cell is affordable and you can simply cut a hole in top for your stock pump, vent it, etc and use the wiring and hose you have from the donor and you are done. I would have done it this way but my trunk would not allow for it.
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
It depends on the pump. EFI is fairly high pressure, what is it that you have?
I don’t have one yet. I’m still working on a parts list. My reasoning to use the stock stuff is to keep cost down for now, but I may find an intake and carb will be cheaper and faster. I really like the idea of EFI though if I can make it work.
robcuda
Well-Known Member
It's just my opinion, but it's cheaper to keep the stock EFI if you have all the parts from the donor. Only extra cost is a fuel cell.
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Yes it ran. The nice thing is my nephew buys and parts out dodge trucks so I have access to everything off that truck plus a couple others.
robcuda
Well-Known Member
Good deal it ran! Don't be tempted to change out sensors etc when the engine is out. Get it in the Dart and running just as it was in the donor. It will simplify problem solving once you move everything over. If you choose to bolt in the donor guage display you can feed it the fuel level from stock pump AND your 518 will send it signal for Speedo. Otherwise, you have to spend money for work arounds.
going to need major revamp on trans tunnel for 518. read some of the articles on here. a lot of really great info for doing what you are planning. good luck with the 2 month thing. rick w.
Yeah I’ve read all bout the 518 install. Some say all that needs to be done is modify the torsion bar cross member, but I’ll probably open up the tunnel some just so there is more room.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
What model year is the donor truck?
If you keep the truck fuse block located in the engine compartment, you won’t have to wire in your own relays to make some of it work.
If you keep the truck fuse block located in the engine compartment, you won’t have to wire in your own relays to make some of it work.
The engine donor is a 99 or 2000 half ton 4wd with an auto trans. The truck donating the A518 is a 93 half ton 2wd.
robcuda
Well-Known Member
Not sure the 93 trans will talk to the 99 computer. Can you find the mate trans from the donor?
I do not believe the trans needs to talk to the computer. The newer trans do but not the older. There are several threads on here that tell how to use pressure switches or toggle switches to make the trans lock up and go into overdrive.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Look at the connectors on the trans. There will be two. One will be the 3 pin backup/ neutral switch on the side, sticking out horizontally. The trans control is above and sits vertically. If it also has a 2 pin connector you can control the trans with switches. If it has ??6 or 8 ?? or so, it must be computer controlled
I've heard conflicting accounts about a computer trans being "left out." Some claim you need to have the computer flashed as for a stick, others say it generates errors that don't matter
I've heard conflicting accounts about a computer trans being "left out." Some claim you need to have the computer flashed as for a stick, others say it generates errors that don't matter
The electric shift trans Didnt come in trucks until 96 or 97. This one is hydraulic. I could see there be a possible issue with the newer computer I have searching for a transmission. Luckily I also have access to a same year computer from a manual truck. That might solve that problem if it occurs.
Whyjay
Member
I’ll be watching this thread. I did a 5.9 Magnum swap into my Jeep in 2003. The motor was out of a 99 2500 4wd auto truck and went into my 88 Wrangler. At the time I was running a NV4500 5 psd. Make sure you grab the harnesses, fuse box, instrument cluster and fuel pump out of the donor. You won’t know what you need until you need it. For my swap I spent a month to marry the 88 Jeep harness with the 99 harness. Using a FSM for that year truck and the 88 FSM. Made it all work.
Started out using a manual tranny computer but eventually found someone to reprogram an auto tranny computer for more HP and he was able to bypass the auto tranny features.
You’ll definitely want to keep the OBD plug for diagnostics.
Anyway I’m here for free advice if needed.
Started out using a manual tranny computer but eventually found someone to reprogram an auto tranny computer for more HP and he was able to bypass the auto tranny features.
You’ll definitely want to keep the OBD plug for diagnostics.
Anyway I’m here for free advice if needed.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I bought an ECM from Solo PCM's in Florida for a 2000 Dodge truck without security key and a manual trans, and bought a Hotrod wiring harness from Hotwire Auto. It only took 4 wires to hook up, and was plug and play.
I used a surge tank fuel set-up and a stock tank. It performs flawlessly with no air intrusion even when down to the last gallon on a road course.
I reflashed the engine tune with a handheld SCT Tuner and a custom tune from Mike at Performance Injection Equipment. It took 3 tunes to accurately dial it in using my wideband feedback, but he nailed it. Easy guy to work with.
https://www.performanceinjectionequipment.com/
I used a surge tank fuel set-up and a stock tank. It performs flawlessly with no air intrusion even when down to the last gallon on a road course.
I reflashed the engine tune with a handheld SCT Tuner and a custom tune from Mike at Performance Injection Equipment. It took 3 tunes to accurately dial it in using my wideband feedback, but he nailed it. Easy guy to work with.
https://www.performanceinjectionequipment.com/
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
If you have a stock harness with the PDC it is very easy to make it run. All you need to do is power the main buss with battery power and hook up an ignition source and switch. The cover of the PDC tells you all you need to know.
Everything with a white paint mark is necessary to run. Everything else you can cut out. If you’re using an auto trans ecu you might as well use a 46re trans as its very simple to just let the ecu control it.
Edited to add:
This PDC was from a 2001, 1500 ram with a 5.9 and a 46re. All the obd2 stuff is the same.
Everything with a white paint mark is necessary to run. Everything else you can cut out. If you’re using an auto trans ecu you might as well use a 46re trans as its very simple to just let the ecu control it.
Edited to add:
This PDC was from a 2001, 1500 ram with a 5.9 and a 46re. All the obd2 stuff is the same.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
It makes no difference what fuel pump you run as it’s just an on/off signal from the ecu controlling a relay. What is important is the the obd1 and obd2 used different pressures. You can use a stock pump in your tank and it will have the regulator built in (read, easy) or you can use an aftermarket pump and regulator and add a return line (better control) but whatever route you take get the pressure set correctly.
Thanks for the info. That is the kind of info I was looking for when I started the thread. Am I safe in assuming that I can eliminate any of the white marked areas that deal with AC since I won’t have AC in the car?
I would consider the 46re, the issue is I’m getting 46rh for free and it’s in good shape. I’ll double check to make sure my parts supplier (nephew) doesn’t have a newer one.
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