Help with stock EFI

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Ok I’ll try to explain this as best as I can in steps. Hopefully it makes sense. This is all for temporary fire up on my run stand. But it all applies to how it wires in the car.
1. You must ground every sensor ground located in J/C-1. These are black, and black w/blue tracer. Mine ran straight to battery ground. I also grounded the ecu.
2. I used batt+ From 50A batt fuse, large red w/black tracer, to a start button to trigger the starter relay this is yellow w/red tracer.
3. ASD relay, Fuse D, and Fuel pump relay trigger, all light green w/black tracer have to have 12v + with ignition on. I wired them together and to an on/off switch with batt+ fed from 20A engine control fuse, large red.
4.Fuel pump output needs to go to the fuel pump, dark green w/black tracer.
5.starter solenoid output needs to go to starter solenoid, large brown wire.
And of course some pics for reference. Starter relay is missing in pics and needs to be there to start. I had to rob mine for something else. Everything else is there, and mine runs as it sits.
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I forgot to add this, all of my wiring was done at the back side of the PDC. The engine side of the harness is 100% stock. I started with a PDC removed from a running truck and kept everything from the pdc to the engine as it was. The harness was cut on the vehicle side of the pdc if that makes sense.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I forgot to add this, all of my wiring was done at the back side of the PDC. The engine side of the harness is 100% stock. I started with a PDC removed from a running truck and kept everything from the pdc to the engine as it was. The harness was cut on the vehicle side of the pdc if that makes sense.
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That’s what I have. Everything from the pdc to the engine and computer is untouched. I cut the wires off that leave the pdc to the truck cab at the firewall and the took the obdII port out. I think I’ll mount ubd under the hood near the pdc. I’m not going to tear into the back of the pdc until I hear it run. Then I’ll start weeding out unused wires.
 
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Truckie said:
That’s what I have. Everything from the pdf to the engine and computer is untouched. I cut the wires off that leave the pdf to the van at the firewall and the took the obdII port out. I think I’ll mount it under the hood near the pdc. I’m not going to tear into the back of the pdc until I hear it run. Then I’ll start weeding out unused wires.
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I’m having a hard time understanding your train of thought here. What’s a pdf?
 
TT5.9mag said:
I’m having a hard time understanding your train of thought here. What’s a pdf?
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A pdf is an Adobe file type. Lol. My phones auto correct kept changing pdc to pdf and I didn’t proofread. It also said van instead of cab for some reason. I went back and fixed it. Hopefully it makes since now.
 
Truckie said:
A pdf is an Adobe file type. Lol. My phones auto correct kept changing pdc to pdf and I didn’t proofread. It also said van instead of cab for some reason. I went back and fixed it. Hopefully it makes since now.
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It’s much more clear now.
 
Very close. I got the driveshaft from the shop last night. I still need to finish the transmission lines, straighten up some wiring, finish the exhaust, and redo the fuel tank. Old one developed a leak after putting it back in. Should be able to test drive Saturday. I’m anxious to see how good I guessed at the front end alignment.

I appreciate all your help.
 
Cool. Keep us informed with how the first drive goes.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Cool. Keep us informed with how the first drive goes.
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I wish I was smarter at all the wiring. The way I have it set up I’m still using the old starter relay on the inner fender. It works fine that way, but I’m not finding any wires in the new fuse box that are hot with the key. They are either hot all the time or nothing. I would much rather be using the new box to power his transmission, gauges, cut outs, etc
 
Take the wire that triggers the starter relay in your car and use it to trigger the starter relay in the pdc. Then use the brown (if I remember correctly) wire out of that relay and run it to the starter solenoid.
 
There will be no wiring in the new PDC that is hot with the key on. Only the stuff you turn on with the ignition; fuse D, ASD, etc.
 
Thanks for the info. Took the car for a couple shake down runs up and down our road. Doesn’t run too bad, shifts a little fun for 2nd to drive when shifting manually. Got a few noises to figure out, but thinking most are exhaust related. One thing that has popped up that I find odd is that the back up lights are on in every gear except part. And suggestions what might be causing this?
 
TT5.9mag said:
Cool. Keep us informed with how the first drive goes.
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There are still a few little things to finish up, but he drove it to senior awards night. About a 25 mile round trip of highway driving and all went well.
 
Truckie said:
Thanks for the info. Took the car for a couple shake down runs up and down our road. Doesn’t run too bad, shifts a little fun for 2nd to drive when shifting manually. Got a few noises to figure out, but thinking most are exhaust related. One thing that has popped up that I find odd is that the back up lights are on in every gear except part. And suggestions what might be causing this?
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Did you get the lights working? If not, do you have the three wire connector at the transmission connected to the car wiring? Do the back up lights turn off with that three wire connector unplugged from the transmission?
 
Bobzilla said:
Did you get the lights working? If not, do you have the three wire connector at the transmission connected to the car wiring? Do the back up lights turn off with that three wire connector unplugged from the transmission?
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Haven’t quite figured it out yet. They were off when he headed to school but were on when he got home. I don’t have the front 3 wire plug hooked up, just the one for OD and TC lock up. His slant six tranny only had a wire for neutral safety, nothing else.
 
OK, so it's still wired to the factory reverse light switch. I think that is mounted to the steering column itself, unless the car was a floor shift setup originally.
Find the reverse light switch in the car and see if the factory shifter is still operating it correctly. Should be a two wire switch. Lights should be off with switch unplugged, no matter what. Switch could be damaged or not functioning, or maybe the column is not moving the switch properly after the transmission swap.
If the switch is not working or the column is not moving it correctly, you could re-wire to the current transmission, which has the reverse function built into the three pin connector.
 
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TT5.9mag said:
Cool. Keep us informed with how the first drive goes.
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TT5.9mag said:
Update? Is the car ready for graduation?
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The car was ready for graduation, so my promise was kept. Of course he had to rattle the windows as he drove by the school afterward and he did a pretty nice burn out leaving. I was afraid his principal may have been upset by it, but we ran into her later and she laughed about it.
Thanks to everyone that shared their knowledge to help make this possible.
 
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Truckie said:
View attachment 1715738614

The car was ready for graduation, so my promise was kept. Of course he had to rattle the windows as he drove by the school afterward and he did a pretty nice burn out leaving. I was afraid his principal may have been upset by it, but we ran into her later and she laughed about it.
Thanks to everyone that shared their knowledge to help make this possible.
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That’s great. Well done dad.
 
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