HemiDenny front end users...

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the tie rods used are based on version (where the rack is placed) of the K you have....some use the std tie rod....some use the fatman.
 
HemiDenny said:
the tie rods used are based on version (where the rack is placed) of the K you have....some use the std tie rod....some use the fatman.
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@HemiDenny....thanks. I lost your email address. Been wondering about using power steering with your front end. Will be a GM pump if I decide to go with p/s....
 
inkjunkie said:
@HemiDenny....thanks. I lost your email address. Been wondering about using power steering with your front end. Will be a GM pump if I decide to go with p/s....
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yes, for the Speedway Motors power rack HDK suggests and/or supplies with a complete package.

The only thing that changes is the amount of spacing front to back with the K and rack. Because the manual rack is slimmer and the rack mounting is different, I usually reduce the spacer by 1" when going from manual to power.

Hope that helps.

Denny
[email protected]
304-939-0097
www.moparsuspension.com

(fixed it....just want to follow the rules. I love this website)
 
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I used a jegs manual rack and Speedway M2 2" drop spindles with the Fatman tie rods.they were to short (not enough thread engagement).I ended up using Thunderbird ends suggested by another member in one of the hdk threads.
 
@68cuda408...do you remember what year Thunderbird they were from...just in case I have the same problem...
 
HemiDenny said:
yes, for the Speedway Motors power rack HDK suggests and/or supplies with a complete package.

The only thing that changes is the amount of spacing front to back with the K and rack. Because the manual rack is slimmer and the rack mounting is different, I usually reduce the spacer by 1" when going from manual to power.

Hope that helps.

Denny
[email protected]
304-939-0097
www.moparsuspension.com

(fixed it....just want to follow the rules. I love this website)
Click to expand...
Thank You Sir. The rate things are not cooperating with me around here I may never get to my car...SMH...
 
68cuda408 said:
I searched forums for the part number ,couldn't find it.I beleive 1983
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When I get the Fat Man parts I will go harass my buddy at NAPA. If by chance you should stumble on the number please do let me know. Just to clarify...the Fat Man parts needed longer threads, correct? Guessing that this will mean the tapered area is a bit shorter? Or is the tapered end on the T-bird ends the same length as the Fat Man parts, just the threaded section is longer? Just confused myself...Thanks again...
 
I might have misunderstood your concern.the threaded end I had issues with was the end that attaches to the inner tie rod.
inkjunkie said:
When I get the Fat Man parts I will go harass my buddy at NAPA. If by chance you should stumble on the number please do let me know. Just to clarify...the Fat Man parts needed longer threads, correct? Guessing that this will mean the tapered area is a bit shorter? Or is the tapered end on the T-bird ends the same length as the Fat Man parts, just the threaded section is longer? Just confused myself...Thanks again...
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20161003_194923.jpg
 
@68cuda408....just wondering what's the deal with the spacer between the k-frame and the car? Is it just for lowering aesthetics or was it needed for alignment purposes?
 
yes the tie rod casting was to short,I found the post from 76orangewagon moog es2150rl. thats what I used.They are about an inch and a half longer. I had the blocks made to lower the engine,the previous owner "front halved" the car by replacing the front frame rails with 2x3 rails,they make up the space missing compared to the factory rails so the trans would fit in the tunnel
 
For those that need to extend the tie rods to use the shorter thread, but longer stud Fat Man Gen II tie rod ends......I use a (9/16" X 18) 1"threaded extension from Afco # 20180-1
 
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