hey buying a 273 2 bbl 66 valiant soon what can i buy to improve my performance

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MoparGuy66

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im looking at a top end performance kit for my soon to be 273 from houghesengines.com
heres the link http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...cw==&level1=Q3lsaW5kZXIgSGVhZHM=&partid=25903

just wondering if im better off just buying heads and cams or going all out with this, if anybody has any suggestions its greatly appreciated

also looking into disc break kits, headers, mufflers, wheels, suspension, pretty much anything, the more i know the better, i just need to know what places to go to and whats good and whats not
 
I think the best way to improve your performance is to get the 273 out and install a new 360 crate engine. You will spend more money trying to get where you want to be with a 273.thats just my opinion. Good luck
 
I think the best way to improve your performance is to get the 273 out and install a new 360 crate engine. You will spend more money trying to get where you want to be with a 273.thats just my opinion. Good luck
what is a good website for crate engines
 
I think you can order one from a dodge dealership.anyone else want the add to the list.help this new member out
 
To actualy answer your question without the normal dead brained response of throw it out for a bigger engine.

From top to bottom;

A 600 cfm carb. (Max)
Intakes can be a Edelbrock Performer or the older LD4B. An Action plus by Weiand is also a good choice.
Heads - As a basic; Just have a valve job done and back cut the valves wit a multi angle valve job.
A step up would be installing a 1.60 exhaust valve and maybe some bowl work done.
Cam - Installing a 4bbl cam is not a simple "Get this cam" but it is something that should be discussed as part of the whole package. Infomation that should be known is type of trans, will you change the converter if needed and the axle ratio & tire size. The goal of the build up is also a need to know as this is the target.

Exhaust. Dual exhaust of the manifolds are a good step up.
Headers can be a pain in the back side and often the cheaper headers will have 3 tubes under the front end linkage that will, not maybe, but will scrap and faltten out on a pot hole, speed bump or a heavy jounce of the cars suspension.
 
Create engines, not that I was trashing them, just the dump what ya got thing, can be found in many places. Your local MoPar dealer/MP performance catolog has a few to choose from as well as Hugesengines .com, Mancini, CME, the list is long.

Create engines can come in stock to hi performance to nasty street trip power or strip power levels. From 318's to 360's to stroker small blocks and so on and so on.

The displacement is up to you as is the power level. Prices vary widely and so does state of engine from just a block and rotating assembley to full blown super charged race HEMI's at over 600 cubes.


So....what do you wanna do? Spend?
 
yea im looking for a good street rod something i can have alot fun with but still be my daily driver while still beating tuner and bimmer boys on the track, if i could avoid putting a $7000 motor in my car that would be great ive looked into 360 heads ive herd they should bolt right on atleast to a 318, its a auto trans not sure what model but im pretty sure they only came with one back then, ive herd the block is very similar to a 318 so would that mean i can buy 318 parts and bolt them on, the car is bone stock no mods and im looking to spend about 1,500 to $3,000 on parts
 
just a word of advice. don't jump in feet first and spend all kinds of money untill you have an actual plan. example; are you looking for a nice running street car or something to embarrass your buddies with? the difference is going to be about 10 grand. sit down, plan it out and then you can budget out your project. don't spend a cent untill you have done this. good luck on your project
 
just a word of advice. don't jump in feet first and spend all kinds of money untill you have an actual plan. example; are you looking for a nice running street car or something to embarrass your buddies with? the difference is going to be about 10 grand. sit down, plan it out and then you can budget out your project. don't spend a cent untill you have done this. good luck on your project
thanks a lot for the advice and these are all just rough ideas of what i want to do, im looking to get a good background knowledge before i make a decision so i can make an informed one
 
IF you take the time and get some books to learn how to do it yourself, you'll save thousands.
Also, if you can come up with what times the cars you wanna crush are running, then we can build something to meet that goal.

The small blocks are all the same with minor differences between them. While 360 heads can bolt onto a 273, the valves will not clear the cylinder walls. So, that is out. And the reason I mention only the exhaust valve in a 273 head. The intake valve will not clear without extra work.

65ragtop did make a good suggestion to swap out the engine (Sorry, he did not answer the question though) and I would suggest that if your going to go big, step up to the plate with a stroker @ 400+ cubes and worry not. Let them dread, not you.
 
If it runs drive it like I do you will have fun with the chevy and ford guys because most of them don't know what a LA273 is when Im at a car show most of them call it a heme one called it a 383 with a 2brl ?????????? all I could do was laugh and tell his buddy mine has 273 stickers on top ? Or its a 64 CUDA rag top ???
Well do your home work and do what your pocket book can stand
Welcom
 
If it runs drive it like I do you will have fun with the chevy and ford guys because most of them don't know what a LA273 is when Im at a car show most of them call it a heme one called it a 383 with a 2brl ?????????? all I could do was laugh and tell his buddy mine has 273 stickers on top ? Or its a 64 CUDA rag top ???
Well do your home work and do what your pocket book can stand
Welcom
haha thats great about the guys calling it a hemi i think i might invest in one of those cheap magazine builds ive found a few for 318's to bump the power to 406 at 6300rpm for under 1,800 in parts
 
Just understand that because you purchased the same parts does not make it so that you'll get the same power out of it.

Do realize that they did a total rebuild and balance job to start with and then added on these parts. THEN, they spent time on the dyno. Lots of time.

Do NOT take alot of stock in dyno numbers. First and foremost, there tools and tools can be miss used and fooled with to make more or less power than what reality is.

That particular build starts making power around the 2K PM mark. While the dyno numbers show one thing, the actual feel in car will differ from what you think it may be. Act differently. Perform differently. Etc......
 
Just understand that because you purchased the same parts does not make it so that you'll get the same power out of it.

Do realize that they did a total rebuild and balance job to start with and then added on these parts. THEN, they spent time on the dyno. Lots of time.

Do NOT take alot of stock in dyno numbers. First and foremost, there tools and tools can be miss used and fooled with to make more or less power than what reality is.

That particular build starts making power around the 2K PM mark. While the dyno numbers show one thing, the actual feel in car will differ from what you think it may be. Act differently. Perform differently. Etc......
even if i can get 350 out of it for under 2000 in parts id be happy and its a good start to anything in the future
 
heres the build sheet

Price List
DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER SOURCE PRICE
COMBINATION 1: 375 hp, 380 lb-ft
Head cores Casting #302 Junkyard $40.00
Machine seats, chambers NA Helgesen $175.00
Mill heads 0.050 NA Dougan's $220.00
Milodon intake valves 45640-8 Summit Racing $99.00
Milodon exhaust valves 45645-8 Summit Racing $103.00
Valve locks NA PAW $5.95
Comp XE268 cam 20-223-3 Summit Racing $109.95
PAW lifters 2011 PAW $39.84
Comp valvesprings 901-16 Summit Racing $68.39
Gasket kit FS31031 PAW $32.95
Iron 360 smog intake NA Junkyard $15.00
Used ThermoQuad NA Junkyard $12.00
MP thin head gaskets P4120094 Mancini Racing $24.95
Hooker 15/8-inch headers 5901 Summit $159.95
TOTAL $1,105.98

COMBINATION 2: 394 hp, 403 lb-ft
Subtract ThermoQuad -$12.00
Subtract iron intake -$15.00
Holley 650 core (used) NA Swap meet $35.00
ProForm body 67100C Summit Racing $99.95
Edelbrock AirGap 7576 Summit Racing $234.95
TOTAL $1,448.88

COMBINATION 3: 406 hp, 408 lb-ft
1-inch open spacer TDP-2084 PAW $17.95
TOTAL $1,466.83
 
IMO, they missed some extra costs. Rebuild kit for the Holley or did they have nig balls and just bolt on a Swap meet carb and go? They used a proform body. They didn't include gaskets.

Are you do ing all the work yourself?

While getting good power is certainly possible from small engines and a short list of parts, becareful what you get used. Sometimes, it is not worth the pain in the *** to re-do it up.

The bottom line here is to have fun. So, IMO, have at it!
 
imo, they missed some extra costs. Rebuild kit for the holley or did they have nig balls and just bolt on a swap meet carb and go? They used a proform body. They didn't include gaskets.

Are you do ing all the work yourself?

While getting good power is certainly possible from small engines and a short list of parts, becareful what you get used. Sometimes, it is not worth the pain in the *** to re-do it up.

The bottom line here is to have fun. So, imo, have at it!
imo?
 
I = IN
M = My
O = Opinion

So, In my opinion, have at it.

(OR, go have some fun!)
 
hey thanks for all the help ill probably just end up messing with the stock engine as you were suggesting and what were those other work you were talking about to port the intake?
 
i really just need to buy the car first im only a paycheck away its good condition mostly rust free gold color im buying it from my uncle who kept it in decent condition the paint is very good for original he wants about $1000 from me so its not a bad deal at all
 
Not the intake but the head. A 273 could use (performance level dependent) a 1.60 exhaust valve from a 340/360. When you have the valve job done, tell the machinest to prep the heads with a multi angle valve job. (AKA Race) and install the 1.60 valve.

Under the valves are called the "Bowl" area. They can be "Hog'd out" or "Ported out" larger for increased air flow. This is also a build dependent item and not right for mild builds.

I did a stock 318 up with a 625carter, Edelbrock LD4B inatke, a Crane cam @ 216/228-.454/.480 and headers. The duster had a 904 auto and a 3.21 suregrip equiped rear. Ran stock tires.
First day out, un tuned, ran a 15.14 @ 89 on a cold day. There was 14's in it. Just not that day. LOL OH, stock converter also. Comprsion was below 8.0-1. (dead stock smog engine from '79.)

You could increase the cam about 8 - 10 degrees and mill the heads down just a little bit and run about as well. I really do not see a problem with that.

Add some converter and 3.55's, you'll run mid 14's.

Your car is not a bad deal at all. Nice! Pictures when you get it!!!!!!!!
 
or you could just keep saving and buy a car that already has a performance engine in it. Would probably save money in the long run.
 
where ya gonna drive this thing? on the autobahn????? if so go for the crate motor yay!!!! got a bank full of money to throw away on fuel??? Yepp crate motor is the way to go.....wanna cruise past a kazillion gas stations? hardened valve seat's.....freshen up the 273...the four bbl will help mileage if you keep your foot out of it....(not sayin that I doooooooo) just cruisin a kewl car all over the place is so much more fun than barely cruisin a car due to high gas prices, i'm sorry I drive my 340 duster every chance I can afford to and I drive my 318 4 speed waggin everyday...build your car for your intended usage and base that intended usage on your allowance for gasoline. i'm enjoying these high gas prices.....I'm enjoying them because I'm taking my cars out and reamin the snot out of them while I still can........smiles per gallon ricers' beware
 

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