itsdiz
Member
View attachment dual carb slant six.jpg
Tried to load picture fo my hot-rod slant six, not sure what I am doing wrong. I am currently the proud owner of 5 Mopars - my daily drivers, 1994 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V-6, 1993 Chrylser Lebaron 3.3L V-6 convertible, project cars: 1948 Plymouth business coupe and 1954 Chrylser New Yorker Deluxe 4-door sedan with 331 Hemi (what else?), and I have one A-body, a 1970 Dodge Dart 4-door sedan.
My first car was a slant-6 powered 1975 Duster, which I later added a silver and maroon custom paint scheme, stained glass parking lenses and dome light, along with other interior additions. I also owned an orange 340 Duster which I replaced the blown V-8 with a slant six from a 1968 Valiant that I had at the time. This car had air shocks, side pipes, even a hood scoop! I also replaced the orange/black bench seats with black vinyl buckets and rear seat from a junkyard 360 powered Dart Sport. I have also owned the aformention 1968 Valiant, a 1974 "Space Duster" with fold-down rear seat, and a 1961 Valiant V-200. I built the aforementioned hot-rod slant six for this car and ran it for a few years. I originally used a 4-barrel carb on a modified single barrel intake, but then switched to an aluminum dual-two barrel manifold that I got from a guy in Australia. I ran two identical 318 Carter 2-barrel carbs. Since the manifold is split, with three runners going to the front cylinders and 3 to the rear, I simply fabricated a rod between the throttle linkages so as the gas pedal operated the rear carb, the front carb reacted equally.
I built this engine in the early 80s and still have it. It was bored .040 over, has a Clifford (Research) Engineering camshaft, and Ford 289 valves with dual spprings. Tip - rather than using 318 Chrylser valves which have to be cut to length and re-grooved, you can use Ford 289 valves which have virtually the same face diameter, but the stem length is identical to the original 225 (and 170, 198 I believe). All you need to do is have the valve guides bored as the Ford valves have thicker stems. I plan to use this engine in my 1948 Plymouth coupe, but first I want to bore it bigger, and add a turbo and fuel injection. I am attempting to create a Hyper-Pak manifold out of steel tubing, then add a throttle body and fuel injector bungs for a port fuel injection system. My goal is 350-400 HP.
I have been doing some research to try to locate longer connecting rods to increase the stroke, trying to compare comparable big end diameters, etc to see if I can match something up. Does anyone know of any combination that will work for increasing the stroke? I have found very little on the internet, other than offset-grinding the rod journals to increase stroke, no mention of stroker rods or other rods that will fit.
Tried to load picture fo my hot-rod slant six, not sure what I am doing wrong. I am currently the proud owner of 5 Mopars - my daily drivers, 1994 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V-6, 1993 Chrylser Lebaron 3.3L V-6 convertible, project cars: 1948 Plymouth business coupe and 1954 Chrylser New Yorker Deluxe 4-door sedan with 331 Hemi (what else?), and I have one A-body, a 1970 Dodge Dart 4-door sedan.
My first car was a slant-6 powered 1975 Duster, which I later added a silver and maroon custom paint scheme, stained glass parking lenses and dome light, along with other interior additions. I also owned an orange 340 Duster which I replaced the blown V-8 with a slant six from a 1968 Valiant that I had at the time. This car had air shocks, side pipes, even a hood scoop! I also replaced the orange/black bench seats with black vinyl buckets and rear seat from a junkyard 360 powered Dart Sport. I have also owned the aformention 1968 Valiant, a 1974 "Space Duster" with fold-down rear seat, and a 1961 Valiant V-200. I built the aforementioned hot-rod slant six for this car and ran it for a few years. I originally used a 4-barrel carb on a modified single barrel intake, but then switched to an aluminum dual-two barrel manifold that I got from a guy in Australia. I ran two identical 318 Carter 2-barrel carbs. Since the manifold is split, with three runners going to the front cylinders and 3 to the rear, I simply fabricated a rod between the throttle linkages so as the gas pedal operated the rear carb, the front carb reacted equally.
I built this engine in the early 80s and still have it. It was bored .040 over, has a Clifford (Research) Engineering camshaft, and Ford 289 valves with dual spprings. Tip - rather than using 318 Chrylser valves which have to be cut to length and re-grooved, you can use Ford 289 valves which have virtually the same face diameter, but the stem length is identical to the original 225 (and 170, 198 I believe). All you need to do is have the valve guides bored as the Ford valves have thicker stems. I plan to use this engine in my 1948 Plymouth coupe, but first I want to bore it bigger, and add a turbo and fuel injection. I am attempting to create a Hyper-Pak manifold out of steel tubing, then add a throttle body and fuel injector bungs for a port fuel injection system. My goal is 350-400 HP.
I have been doing some research to try to locate longer connecting rods to increase the stroke, trying to compare comparable big end diameters, etc to see if I can match something up. Does anyone know of any combination that will work for increasing the stroke? I have found very little on the internet, other than offset-grinding the rod journals to increase stroke, no mention of stroker rods or other rods that will fit.
