Hi volume oil pump

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According to my stick I am about a 1/2 quart over with the oil filter....I do run a windage tray. I put in 5 quarts and ran it and it was just under the stick line so that's why I have been running 6qts. I am going to switch to the smaller V6 Dakota filter this year and I'll put in 5qts and see where it's at.
To be honest every motor is different too so what works for some won't work for others......
 
fishy68, the oil is going past the relief valve and ending up right back in the pan. The motor can only flow so much oil thru the passages. The reason that you are loosing oil pressure at higher rpms is that you are putting so much oil thru the relief valve that it is aerating the oil. Air cant' be introducted into the suction side of a pump, one of the the things that happens is it looses suction or on the pressure side of the pump since air can be compressed the oil will try to take up the space of the air there by lower the pressure.

There is nothing good about running a bigger pump than you need. It takes more HP, it puts more load on the cam gear, puts more load on the timing chain, makes more heat in the oil bypassing all of the time and can aerate the oil.

This is all physics of a hydraulic system, which is what an oil system is.

Here is something else to consider with pumps, as pressure goes up volume goes down. The highest flow you will get out of a pump is at zero psi.


Chuck
 
I bought a diagnostic oil/fluid pressure gage just to make sure aftermarket stuff is working right. You'd be amazed at what an accurate mechanical gage can do for emotions when one sees little or no pressure on a gage face.
 
moper said:
I bought a diagnostic oil/fluid pressure gage just to make sure aftermarket stuff is working right. You'd be amazed at what an accurate mechanical gage can do for emotions when one sees little or no pressure on a gage face.
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Yeah I have had one of the trio setups for a few yrs. myself. They are great. I got lucky and work provided it since I work on alot of hydraulics.
 
340mopar said:
There is nothing good about running a bigger pump than you need. It takes more HP, it puts more load on the cam gear, puts more load on the timing chain, makes more heat in the oil bypassing all of the time and can aerate the oil.

This is all physics of a hydraulic system, which is what an oil system is.

Here is something else to consider with pumps, as pressure goes up volume goes down. The highest flow you will get out of a pump is at zero psi.


Chuck
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I agree 100%. HV pumps are for large clearance engines. If your clearances are right, you give up power for the sake of heat. Unless you enlarge all the oil feed galleries, especially the pickup side, they will limit the oil system's total volume. Too much "sucking" with a small pickup leads to aeration. The factory stuff can handle well beyond 6500 in a small block. In truth, the HV pumps can get the majority of your oil stuck up in the valley, above the cam and crank. The cam loves that, but all that oil has to flow past the crank. You are creating windage too.
 
I thought that 10psi for every 1000rpms your turning was the norm.

so 25 psi @ 2500 rpms I would think is correct. :dontknow:
 
25 psi at 2500 is fine. But that better rise as rpm does. Most pumps will reach max volume (and pressure reading) at or around 3000. So your oilgage reads 15-20 at idle, then spikes up to max by around 3K. Max should be 65psi or so, although a factory pump may be valved to by pass over 60. You never really know until it's tested or turning.
 
I have a frend that installed a high valum oil pump and it sucked the pan dry.
the oil did not make the trip back to the oil pan fast enogh.
This hapend in a 440.
 
Brambles said:
How much oil pressure does your engine produce at idle when fully warmed up??

Since my engine was rebuilt I have run a stock volume pump and for the first few months while breaking in the motor it had about 25 psi at idle fully warmed up.
Now with 14,000 kms on it ( about 9000 miles I think) the oil pressure at idle is 10 psi. and cruising on the hwy at 2500 rpm its about 25 psi.

I'm told that its still within acceptable specs but its on the low side. The engine doesn't knock at idle so the bearings are still floating in oil.

I want more oil pressure and am wondering if putting in a hi volume pump will boost the pressure up to desired levels? I don't know about Hi-pressure pumps but have always been told not to use them.

I'm going to tear the motor apart and see if I can tell WHY my pressure is low but for now its just being parked.

Any ideas?
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Just a thought - have you checked your rocker shafts to make sure they weren't installed upside down?
 
hello..

for all i know we could agree on the fact that the oil from the pump presses against the bypass valve that is set to be the max preasure.. if u cant get to this point with a std volume pump 50 - 65 psi, ur engine suffers from some clerance or faulty assembly issue.. if ur engine is built for high volume with deeper pan and modifyed oil sytem that requres more oil to maintain preasure and cooling there is no need for hv pump.. in fact it will only do harm by cavitation, heat arate ++.... There are some oil filters that has bypass valves to.. note that if u use high volume pump with HP spring u could end up with no oil filtering, sending everyting into the bearings.. im building a stroker 408 with 360 mains, just this moment and i cant decide to go std pump or hv.. i have millodon pan/pickup and std clerance but it seems like im never gona get a 100% awnser to this issue as books say 1 thing and forums say something else
 
Holy crap, do you think he's still having oil pressure problems??? LOL Thanks for checking the date fishy68!
 
Nope.

i have a problem, picking the right pump.. no after a mail to manchini racing, Huges engines and a chat with the summit live tech support. Everyone found that if u haven't blueprinted the oil system and have std clearances, u should always use the HV pump. the reason is that it only gives 20 to 25% more oil than stock. this will help maintain oil pressure on low idle (witch is good for a street engine that runs a lot on idle) the How to big inch sb mopar, Build High Performance Chrysler Engines and How to Hot Rod Small-Block Mopar Engines say the same thing.. i have all boock so i checked it up..

I picked the HV melling pump, milodon pickup and deep pan. i also made the modifications to the block that Moper mentioned... so lets just wait and c where it goes. I will report results.
 
no ehhe.. im have 4 smb mopar projects going.. + a std 318 in the car.. the 340 that ate itself broke early this summer.. the others im building myself :) havent broken yet, tough my interest mostly are building engines and trying out new things and ofc try the stuff others have done. the oiling issue is for a stroker 360 (74 block)
 
NorwayCuda69 said:
Nope.

i have a problem, picking the right pump.. no after a mail to manchini racing, Huges engines and a chat with the summit live tech support. Everyone found that if u haven't blueprinted the oil system and have std clearances, u should always use the HV pump. the reason is that it only gives 20 to 25% more oil than stock. this will help maintain oil pressure on low idle (witch is good for a street engine that runs a lot on idle) the How to big inch sb mopar, Build High Performance Chrysler Engines and How to Hot Rod Small-Block Mopar Engines say the same thing.. i have all boock so i checked it up..

I picked the HV melling pump, milodon pickup and deep pan. i also made the modifications to the block that Moper mentioned... so lets just wait and c where it goes. I will report results.
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You say you talked to Hughes engines and they said to run a HV pump if you haven't blueprinted the engine and it has stock clearances? That's odd cause I just talked to them last friday and they told me to run a std pump if the clearances are close to stock. Only when you have loose clearances do you run the HV pump. Which is what makes sense. Makes no sense to run a HV pump on a stock engine.
 
On Tue, Sep 15, 2009 at 3:35 AM, Jo Stian Hansen <[email protected]> wrote:

hey.

are there room for 1 more question :) the engine are almost assembled... but i cant decide if im going with HV oil pump or stock. book say u should always go for hv in any performance aplication.. then someone says no no std i what u need to prevent cavitation. i know that u gys know alot abaout oiling system so :). The engine is btw built with stock clearance.

br Jo

Fra: Hughes Engines Information ([email protected])
Sendt: 15. september 2009 17:03:42
Til: Jo Stian Hansen ([email protected])

Most every engine we build that has had the oil system blueprinted, we use the stock oil pump. If the oil system has not had anything done to it, then install a high volume.

Hughes Engines
 
I still stand by my thought that if it is stock clearances a stock volume pump is all you should run but as one fellow told me a few yrs. ago when I went through this same thing run what makes you feel safe. If you feel a stock pump won't keep up with it run a HV pump.
 
Ace said:
I don't think the sender which is basically an on-off switch that sets at about 8 psi is going to be the issue. :wack:
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He obviously has a oil pressure gauge, whether it be mechanical or electric. The 8 psi sender you are talking about turns on the oil light, not a gauge.

Good point though, double check with a different gauge.
 
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