High Boost Turbo 225 crank

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Landons65Dart

Landons65Dart

Proud Mopar Owner
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I've got a '65 slant. I want to push 30+ psi boost with a shot of nitrous. Should I stick with the forged crank or try and find a shot-peened truck crank? There's a '68 dodge truck with a 225 down the street that they're doing a transplant on, but is it worth buying the motor for the added strength?
 
with 30psi boost the head wont stay on it , 6psi of boost can add 100hp to a 6cyl, so your going for 1000hp?
 
teringer said:
with 30psi boost the head wont stay on it , 6psi of boost can add 100hp to a 6cyl, so your going for 1000hp?
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Yup. Don't worry about the top end. I'm taking no risks there. ARP studs, top grade SS valves, hardened seats, major porting, decking, o-ring the head and have a thick copper gasket. I'll also be getting the combustion chamber ceramic coated. I already have +0.060" forged Pistons and a set of 4340 H-Beam rods on order.

I just need to know if I should stick with the forged crank or go through with getting the shot penned truck crank.
 
Ask Charlie_S. He can tell you.
 
teringer said:
with 30psi boost the head wont stay on it , 6psi of boost can add 100hp to a 6cyl, so your going for 1000hp?
Click to expand...

no, no and no. you can make a head stay on with 30psi. its been done. 6psi is not going to give you 100hp on a slant. just not gonna happen. maybe 50-60hp. 30psi on a slant will net you just over 500hp.
 
RustyPlymouth said:
no, no and no. you can make a head stay on with 30psi. its been done. 6psi is not going to give you 100hp on a slant. just not gonna happen. maybe 50-60hp. 30psi on a slant will net you just over 500hp.
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Thank you.
I'm going to attempt to get close to 700hp cranking out of this leaning tower of power. We'll see what I can accomplish.
 
RustyPlymouth said:
no, no and no. you can make a head stay on with 30psi. its been done. 6psi is not going to give you 100hp on a slant. just not gonna happen. maybe 50-60hp. 30psi on a slant CAN net you just over 500hp.
Click to expand...

While it's a good rule of thumb (has been done twice anyways) keep in mind it all depends on the turbo and such. If I'm correct, Tom only made ~300@crank with 23lbs on his first setup. Just something to keep in mind.
 
I have began a project of boosting a 64 Valiant with a 170. My goal is to do this on the cheap. I got a turbo off of a Volvo from Wrench a Part for $45. Volvo is a good choice because of being water cooled. I had to take off three turbos before I found one that was good, but for $45....:cheers:

I have build all flanges using the steel gaskets from the turbo, modified my 1bbl intake and built a mounting surface adapter for my 600cfm Edelbrock.

I have modified the Edelbrock to boost reference the throttle shaft and float chambers, refitted nitrophyle floats to replace the brass ones, as they will crush under 5 psi, modified an aluminum carb hat to accept the boost tube, and boost referenced the fuel pump.

Exhaust is plumbed, and idle is good. Next step is to take it for a test drive.

Question: having no vacuum to the distributor will require recurving. Does anyone have any info on recurving for a turbo install?
 
64abody said:
I have began a project of boosting a 64 Valiant with a 170. My goal is to do this on the cheap. I got a turbo off of a Volvo from Wrench a Part for $45. Volvo is a good choice because of being water cooled. I had to take off three turbos before I found one that was good, but for $45....:cheers:

I have build all flanges using the steel gaskets from the turbo, modified my 1bbl intake and built a mounting surface adapter for my 600cfm Edelbrock.

I have modified the Edelbrock to boost reference the throttle shaft and float chambers, refitted nitrophyle floats to replace the brass ones, as they will crush under 5 psi, modified an aluminum carb hat to accept the boost tube, and boost referenced the fuel pump.

Exhaust is plumbed, and idle is good. Next step is to take it for a test drive.

Question: having no vacuum to the distributor will require recurving. Does anyone have any info on recurving for a turbo install?
Click to expand...

Well, the vacuum advance is the last thing you need. With a turbo you'll need the exact opposite. You have to retard the timing as boost inclines. That's why Im going to find a programmable ignition system
 
Landons65Dart said:
Well, the vacuum advance is the last thing you need. With a turbo you'll need the exact opposite. You have to retard the timing as boost inclines. That's why Im going to find a programmable ignition system
Click to expand...

Here's some information, maybe you can use some of it, but maybe not... it may not be applicable for your system:

My turbocharged 225 engine has a distributor with no vacuum advance diaphragm and a locked plate (NO centrifugal mechanism; it's out of a Lean Burn motor.)
No advance of any kind.

I set the advance at 18 degrees.
It starts with no kickback and drives out beautifully; no problems. No run-on when I turn it off.

BUT, it gets UNBELIVEABLY BAD gas mileage on the street... I am amazed that you can actually PUT that much gas through a 650 Holley. Believe it!!!!

It NEEDS a vacuum advance unit, for gas mileage.

Since this is a race-only application; no street driving, it will never get one, but the actual drivability is good and it idles nicely at 500 rpm. No "curve" required...


Simple...
 
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