high Build epoxy primer?

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While we're at it can I hijack and ask what everyone is using for sealing metal, body filler, etc? There's so many options and ways to do it that it just makes my head spin. You too?
 
I have a gallon of Keystone Epoxy Primer and catalyst, didn't end up using it on my project - shop doing the work wanted to use a product of their own choosing. Had I done the work myself as initially planned I would have used it.
 
Straighten the metal to the best of your ability first. I believe you get what you pay for when it comes to materials etc. Also, remember that everything shrinks. Even catylized products. The majority of the shrinkage occurs in the first few years, which is why high dolar paint jobs take a long time to do well.
 
You don't need a "high build" epoxy. Epoxy is for sealing and you don't need build for a sealer.
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I disagree with your statement
High build epoxy Primer/sealer :
Although expensive , it is used to go over bare metal and body filler plus it seals the body filler at the same time. The high build works GREAT with long blocking right before Base. SUPER STRAIGHT PANELS

Has anyone tried the Keystone High Build Epoxy High Build?
 
After reading this I am wondering if you are using a high build epoxy as a surfacer not a sealer..
 
Generally from the epoxy primers I've used they sand like gum but those are "non" sanding sealers not surfacers.
 
I wonder if maybe someome gets " polester primer" confused with epoxy primer?

the polester primer is somewhat like spraying body fiiler. it will hide some flaws. some use it also a s a sealer????? a high fill urethane primer is what most people would use for blocking.

epoxy primer over bare metal with filler over that. the epoxy as a sealer lastly.

again I say, that tutorial would give any aspiring person plenty of knowledge as to how to proceed.
 
I use epoxy primer always.
PPG DP 40, 90, 50 ETC and can be tinted to the final color to help coverage. The DP 90 LF is great on Radiators and radiator cradles and does not wear off easily, good for "black out behind grills. IMO
 
barbee6043 said:
I wonder if maybe someome gets " polester primer" confused with epoxy primer?

the polester primer is somewhat like spraying body fiiler. it will hide some flaws. some use it also a s a sealer????? a high fill urethane primer is what most people would use for blocking.

epoxy primer over bare metal with filler over that. the epoxy as a sealer lastly.

again I say, that tutorial would give any aspiring person plenty of knowledge as to how to proceed.
Click to expand...

This I completely agree with. Long boarding a sealer right before base would do nothing but make a mess. Also if you need to block your sealer before base to get a car straight you need a new bodyman!
 
KD3000 Series Custom DTS Foundation Surfacer Sealers KD3000 is a hybrid epoxy two component primer designed to be used as a DTS or Direct to Substrate High Build High Build Surfacer, Medium Build Surfacer/High Build Sealer, or silky smooth sealer. Available in 6 premixed colors which can be intermixed for a wide range of colors. KD3000 is an industry first and undisputedly the best foundation system available. KD3000 has excellent adhesion, corrosion resistance, productive dry times, and ease of sanding. These DTS surfacer/sealers emit very low amounts of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs), Hazardous Air Polluting Solvents (HAPS), and contain no isocyanates. The KD3000 Series DTS surfacer/sealers may be applied to the existing OEM finish, bare steel, aluminum, fiberglass, galvanized surfaces, and various plastics. Its tenacious adhesion, hi-build, excellent durability, and water and corrosion resistance and ease of sanding make it a superior choice for the basis of a long lasting custom paint job. For the quickest and easiest approach to selecting ground coat color, apply basecoat over KD3000 Color Check panel (part # HOK1052015) and select which formula best matches your desired color and effect
 
There have been a lot of advancements in Autobody paint process in the last 5 years.
I have been using the above mentioned product successfully and yes, epoxy, sandable, sealer , and high build, Easily sands and does not gum up the paper.
I also use a BASF product similar, expensive is all.
 
I have never used a high build epoxy. What is the cost? I would think it might be an ok option to use unless it's so expensive that it's cheaper to go the conventional route...

What would you board sand your car with before spraying base? Seems to me that it would have to be pretty aggressive grit to actually straighten a car but then the scratch would be too hard to cover with base only... not sure I see any advantage but I'm old school and stubborn :)
 
My final coat I long board with 320 then base.
Until I started using this method, I would always have a shimmer when I looked down the side of a long fender or door.( With dark colors) I suppose with better skill I would not need this product.
In my defense It is very hard to see little waives or slight inclusions in a garage turned positive pressure paint booth. A nice coat of KDA3000, then block sand , has made a huge difference in my outcome!!!
I think correct lighting is the hardest thing when finishing a car , again in my garage paint booth. Too bright does not work either
Its about $150/gallon with hardener
 
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