High mount water pump body/timing cover???

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Valvebounce

Valvebounce

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Today I got a 318 core that I picked up for a $100. I bought it back in January, but it was a 7 hour drive away. So I had to wait for a tool rep mate of mine to pass through that end of the country to collect it. (He reckons I owe him a new back after he tried to load it into the back of his SUV on his own. lol)
Anyway, it has a timing cover/water pump mount unlike anything I've ever seen. (Not that I've seen that much) It sits the water pump up quite high. (Like above the valley) and it kinda looks like cast iron? (Although it looks like some heathen has painted it ford blue) :puke:
Anyone know what the dealio is with them? All the guy told my mate was that he was going to put it in his boat. Is it a marine/industrial type thing? Or from a motor home, or some kind of truck?
 
did a quick google search on a marine 318 engine and came up with this (which I am assuming is what you are describing) and from the pictures I am seeing of them....they were painted the "ford blue" you speak of. sounds like you have a marine 318 to me.
 

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if its the marine 318 wide block, a member on here is looking for that timing cover.

pics please?
 
It's higher than that.
I'll try snap a picture tomorrow if the mrs will let me sneak off to the workshop. I didn't have a camera with me today.
That pic still looks to have a standard timing cover. I could have sworn this was all completely different.
 
I'm noting from the photos that xMOPARx posted that the marine engine uses a divorced water pump (not plumbed through a front cover). Besides supplying the engine internals, it also puts coolant through the exhaust manifolds. (The funny looking air filter is also a spark arrestor. The marine carb vents differently from the non-marine carbs.)

My experience with industrial engines is that they weren't any different in external appearance from the automotive counterpart. Some have had oil bath air filters, but those were available on cars, too. What I haven't seen on a marine or industrial engine are the fittings for supplying coolant to a heater.

A photo or two of your engine might help shed some light on its origins. Besides a 3/4 view of the entire engine, some close-ups of the water pump area, and any numbers cast into the side of the block would be helpful.
 
I managed to get some pictures. They aren't very good. (It was cold, dark, and raining out. And the corner where the motor sits was pretty well out of the light.
(Hopefully it works, I'm a bit of a cabbage with computers)
 

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That looks like a motorhome timing cover, i pulled a 318 from a 1968 travco that looked the same. It was the 318-3 with the heavy duty crank that was special for the big trucks.
 
That's pretty cool! :glasses7: Are you going to run it?. Can't really tell from photos but will a stock SB water bolt up? Sure would make room for an electric fan!
If you decide to get rid of it I want first dibs. I like the weird and unusual.:shock:
I have a stock 77' 318 cover I would trade +.
Larry
 
That's a 318 industrial engine. Get ready to possibly use almost nothing from it. It will have different heads, intake and exhaust manifolds and possibly different block and crank than automotive applications. Who knows when you throw in the Australian difference? Just check and double check everything against a known automotive engine.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's a 318 industrial engine. Get ready to possibly use almost nothing from it. It will have different heads, intake and exhaust manifolds and possibly different block and crank than automotive applications. Who knows when you throw in the Australian difference? Just check and double check everything against a known automotive engine.
Click to expand...
Rob nailed it
 
Still looks like a motorhome engine, the water pump has fittings for heater hoses. I changed the timing cover and intake with 340 parts and ran it in a truck for years.
 
I'm not sure the timing cover is off this engine originally.
The block looks almost torquise, whereas the timing cover is much more blue.
It didn't include zhorst manifolds, and the intake is the same as all the other car ones I've seen.
The only numbers I could find stamped on the block were F6P5816. And they were on the pad at the rear of the left bank. There were no numbers on the pad down by the pan rail on the right side. I think that must be the difference with Aussie vs US stuff. A 340 I checked recently had numbers down by the pan rail.
 
You mentioned the only numbers you could find on the block were F6P5816....A typical engine (atleast in US) would have identification embossed right into the casting on the side of the block. Not sure about yours though...unfamiliar territory to me being that its industrial aswell as not from the states.
 
Sorry, the only stamped numbers.
It has casting numbers on the side, but I believe those to be a bit irrelevant?
All the Aussie blocks were cast in the US anyway. The suffix is 318-2. (But that's all I recall off the top of my head. (The block is a dirty ol' pig)
 
Who knows? I just know in this country, generally when you see a high mount water pump, you have an industrial/motorhome engine. Chrysler industrial engines usually have completely different heads, intake and exhaust manifolds as the automotive units. Of course, being Australian gives an element of unfamiliarity. I would just be double checking everything against a standard 318 car engine to be damned sure.
 
The block casting is not referenced to any automotive blocks through 1982. The thing to watch out for with marine engines is that some were made to counter-rotate from normal practice. These were for twin engined boats to keep them from "crabbing". The counter-rotating engine will be found on the starboard (right) side of the boat.

All the same, all it takes to convert this engine for automotive use is a front cover change out to an automotive one, and a harmonic balancer that has corresponding timing marks. Change the cam and starter to proper rotating pieces (if it's a counter-rotating marine engine) and it's done.
 
2 Darts said:
............... The thing to watch out for with marine engines is that some were made to counter-rotate from normal practice. These were for twin engined boats to keep them from "crabbing". The counter-rotating engine will be found on the starboard (right) side of the boat.

All the same, all it takes to convert this engine for automotive use is a front cover change out to an automotive one, and a harmonic balancer that has corresponding timing marks. Change the cam and starter to proper rotating pieces (if it's a counter-rotating marine engine) and it's done.
Click to expand...

You find "wrong rotation" engines in single engine installs as well. I'm not sure why, maybe inventory overrun?

So far as converting, "some" (don't know about SBM) engines have the oil slinger slots on the crank going the wrong way, so you'll suffer rear main leakage if you don't swap the crank

CCW rotation SBM engines use a big adapter under the distributor to deal with thrust from the distributor gear, an easy means of ID if the engine is complete

I believe this is out of a 440, but SB use a similar piece

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6443&d=1363733766
 
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