High Speed vibration, can't find what's causing it.

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RockinRobin said:
Yes just a spin balance
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Well my race weekend got put on hold again. I took my wheels to get balanced and one wheel wanted 8 ounces to balance out. Didn't help that it was bent. Firestone must of bent it last year when they mounted my brand-new MT 295/65/15 ETStreetR tires. I didn't really want to spend over $800 for two wheels right now. So I ended up buying a complete set of jegs ssr spike wheels for the dakota.. pluse seeing how nobody is making headers for a gen3 hemi. I have been thinking hard about just biteing the bullet and building up the dart sport.
 
I run drag radials on my Dart and always put Right /Stuff silicone all around the weights to ensure they stay put . I was considering purchasing a Dakota set up for Stock Eliminator minus motor and trans but after some research I found out that nobody made long tube headers for a small block in a Dakota only shorty headers like I have in my D150. Especially since I was going to use my W2 motor with a different bolt pattern than a standard head. So I scrapped that idea would have been cool though !
 
BVoelzke said:
I run drag radials on my Dart and always put Right /Stuff silicone all around the weights to ensure they stay put . I was considering purchasing a Dakota set up for Stock Eliminator minus motor and trans but after some research I found out that nobody made long tube headers for a small block in a Dakota only shorty headers like I have in my D150. Especially since I was going to use my W2 motor with a different bolt pattern than a standard head. So I scrapped that idea would have been cool though !
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So just around the outside of the weights? Or do you spread it across the top of the weights that aren’t on the outside??

IIRC one of my wheels has more weight than the other and it’s three weights wide.

I think
 
BVoelzke said:
I run drag radials on my Dart and always put Right /Stuff silicone all around the weights to ensure they stay put . I was considering purchasing a Dakota set up for Stock Eliminator minus motor and trans but after some research I found out that nobody made long tube headers for a small block in a Dakota only shorty headers like I have in my D150. Especially since I was going to use my W2 motor with a different bolt pattern than a standard head. So I scrapped that idea would have been cool though !
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damn that sucks about the Dakota. i found a place that sells a weld up kit. but not sure i want to spend $1200 on a kit never seeing i have never built a set of headers before. pulse have to add in the cost of a tig wilder then have to learn how to use said tig welder.lol If you are really wanting to build a dakota i would sell mine as a roller and it will come with ceramic coated hooker long tube headers. they are only 1-5/8 tube though.

20240419_210815.jpg
 
mopar65 said:
Well my race weekend got put on hold again. I took my wheels to get balanced and one wheel wanted 8 ounces to balance out. Didn't help that it was bent. Firestone must of bent it last year when they mounted my brand-new MT 295/65/15 ETStreetR tires. I didn't really want to spend over $800 for two wheels right now. So I ended up buying a complete set of jegs ssr spike wheels for the dakota.. pluse seeing how nobody is making headers for a gen3 hemi. I have been thinking hard about just biteing the bullet and building up the dart sport.
Click to expand...
It's always something isn't it? Got to the track yesterday and the starter wasn't working right. Found that the top bolt was coming loose. Burned my wrist on the headers getting it squared away. Then my charger kept tripping the breaker, found a cable connector had broken. 5 minute fix with a propane mini torch and some solder, of course that was at the house, so I had to jury rig it to get through the day. After all of the tinkering the track turned out to be hot and greasy and I kept spinning which cost me the 1st 2 rounds, so I was done for the day. Trying it again on Sunday morning at the TMCCC race. Sorry about your wheels, there is no quick fix for that.
 
RockinRobin said:
It's always something isn't it? Got to the track yesterday and the starter wasn't working right. Found that the top bolt was coming loose. Burned my wrist on the headers getting it squared away. Then my charger kept tripping the breaker, found a cable connector had broken. 5 minute fix with a propane mini torch and some solder, of course that was at the house, so I had to jury rig it to get through the day. After all of the tinkering the track turned out to be hot and greasy and I kept spinning which cost me the 1st 2 rounds, so I was done for the day. Trying it again on Sunday morning at the TMCCC race. Sorry about your wheels, there is no quick fix for that.
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I always have the weights on the inside of the wheel so they can't be seen . I put the silicone heavily around the sides of the weights and a little on top.
 
BVoelzke said:
I always have the weights on the inside of the wheel so they can't be seen . I put the silicone heavily around the sides of the weights and a little on top.
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It may not look pretty but you may need to balance both sides of the wheels. On my 72' Dodge van I insisted on the weights be put only on the inside also. Had a top-in vibration and had to allow weights on the outside also to rid it. 295/50/15 TA's
 
Swinger 340 said:
It may not look pretty but you may need to balance both sides of the wheels. On my 72' Dodge van I insisted on the weights be put only on the inside also. Had a top-in vibration and had to allow weights on the outside also to rid it. 295/50/15 TA's
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I’ve had everything from an 8 inch wheel to a 14 inch wheel on my drag cars and never had to use a weight on the front side of the wheel. And I’ve had weight on some that you guys probably wouldn’t run. I glue my slicks on so it’s not as easy as just unmounting the slick and trying it in another spot.
 
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