High-zinc oil or ZDDP oil additives?

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fishmens67 said:
This ! and if your engine is sealed and finely tuned like mine, the vr1 will be clean at the next oil change. I have used Valvoline exclusively for 40 years, with no failure at high rpm racing and street use.
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And this is exactly my point. It's not wrong, it's just he has never tested anything else. So how would you know if something is better or not?

Not knocking fishmens67 I'm just saying you can't possibly KNOW that you are using the best if you have not done TESTING.

It really comes down to that. And unicorns and pixie dust with a little voodoo juju thrown in.
 
yellow rose said:
And this is exactly my point. It's not wrong, it's just he has never tested anything else. So how would you know if something is better or not?

Not knocking fishmens67 I'm just saying you can't possibly KNOW that you are using the best if you have not done TESTING.

It really comes down to that. And unicorns and pixie dust with a little voodoo juju thrown in.
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you won't get no argument from me. I'm not about to knock someone who has actually tested oil using a dyno. kudos to you for doing so and relaying valuable information.
something I will look into. thank you
 
yellow rose said:
Then you just need to use cheep oil.

I can tell you have never tested oil. You have no idea what it costs. How easy it is to screw it up and ruin the results.

Like rusty rat rod, I don't usually suggest products. But I got my *** ate out in the transmission section because I wouldn't do so I do it here and that is what happens.

So I will never do it again.


Make sure the next time you buy a carb, headers, spark plugs, tires or a cam, make sure you get a money back offer.

But, I have spent the time, and the money and went through the correct protocol, and I have never seen any oil out horsepower Torco. A couple got close, but I won't name them. The real benefit comes from the companies who build oil (or other parts and pieces) that are very application specific. Alcohol engines don't do well with TRUE synthetic base stocks. So there is more to it than just running to the parts store.

For those of us who have invested a lifetime of study to the science of motorsports, the reality of the fact that some people never learn or move forward in thought is inconceivable. Yet it happens every day.

Carry on with what you are doing. It works right?
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Yep the VR1 has worked great for me going on 30 years.
I don't doubt Torco is good, I use the 85w140 RGO in my 8.75"
But $22 for a quart of oil better have some well proven independent lab testing that is repeatable.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Yep the VR1 has worked great for me going on 30 years.
I don't doubt Torco is good, I use the 85w140 RGO in my 8.75"
But $22 for a quart of oil better have some well proven independent lab testing that is repeatable.
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It better have bikini clad hotties to pour it in for me.
 
What this all amounts to is, What more can $22.00 a qt oil do for me that the Lucas Hot Rod, The Valvoline VR-1,STP additive, Brad Penn, etc,etc,etc hasn't done for the rest of us uninformed? If it works for me and has for a long time, what benefits would I see by spending $176.00 on a oil change? Oh and plus a filter.
 
Joe Gibbs Driven HR5 is going in my 67 Barracuda. I've used Napa and Valvoline with zink additive the last 3 years. But I never let the oils in any of my vehicles get black. When it starts to turn dark that's when I change it. I keep clean oil. I'm gonna try the JG stuff to see how it does.
 
I go by what the cam manufacturer suggests. My cam was made by Schneider Racing Cams so I used their break in additive. I have also used Lucas Classic Car and VR-1 Valvoline without issue, flat tappet mechanical. On my old motor I used Mobil 1, no issues. Pick your poison, there is no "best".
 
It's very easy to overthink this stuff. For your engine, I would run plain old Rotella T 15w40 and not ever worry about an oil related engine failure. Are there better oils out there? Sure there are, but Rotella is a dang good lol too. Ofher benefits are its price ($12-14 per gallon) and you can find it anywhere. Specialty oils are great but unless you carry extra quarts with you all the time, what are you going to do if you need to top off away from home?
 
I used to run Kendall oil until they got bought out. Went to VR-1 for a while, But alway notice after a lot of highway use the oil did not look right. Don't quote me on this as this was a while ago. I believe I read VR-1 not good for highway use and high heat. The oil brakes down. So I stopped using it. I was going to start using Rosella T 15w40 But they change the formula, So I started to use Brad Penn. I have not used enough to say much about it but so far good stuff.

Some oils do rob horse power but to most people that little bit does not matter.
 
works fine in all my old stuff
 

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70aarcuda said:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MS6QHS/?tag=fabo03-20

I use this stuff with flat tappet cams....with any oil you want to use.
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I just ordered a 3 pack off of ebay. I'm going to try this in my other Duster. I have VR-1 10w-30 in one of my Dusters.

Just a side note, I use Lucas break-in (high Zinc) oil additive when I break in a new cam. It's 18 bucks, but I feel good breaking in a new cam with it......
 
And just to spice this thread up.

What do you guys think of royal purple?
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Yep the VR1 has worked great for me going on 30 years.
I don't doubt Torco is good, I use the 85w140 RGO in my 8.75"
But $22 for a quart of oil better have some well proven independent lab testing that is repeatable.
Click to expand...


If you look around there are independent tests that are public information. Some of what I tested was my own. I paid for it.

Many other times, a customer paid for it, so I do not release the results of what other people pay for. As I said, it is very very expensive to correctly test oil. It's time consuming. It takes a minimum of 27 dyno pulls to test just two oils. And that's IF you don't get bad information. I have seen many oils (Torco, Synergyn and LAT come to mind) that when tested make the reference oil look better for the first 3-4 pulls. That is because no matter what you do, you never get all the oil out after each test. Let's say you are using WalMart brand oil as the reference oil. That is the "A" test oil. You make 3 pulls and average the pulls. You make 3 more pulls to average again and compare the results. The I personally do 3 more because I have found that cheep oils fall out of grade and you can actually find a slight increase in HP if the oil was too heavy, or, you can lose HP if the oil was on the light side and now, under heat and load it loses power. After that, you drain the oil, change the filter and add the "B" oil. Now you do the testing sequence all over and see what the results are. Once you are done, you MUST go back to the reference oil (the A oil) and do 9 more pulls. Chances are, if you are testing a quality oil, you will see the "A" oil pick up HP for 3-4 or even 5 pulls, due to residual "B" oil remaining in the system.

As you can see, it gets expensive quick, and valid results are hard to get. But, there are real performance gains to be had.

I would say that accurately testing oils and fuel are the hardest and most complicated testing there is. That and exhaust systems.
 
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