3yearcuda
Senior Member
So, I remove my Quickfuel 880cfm and Mopar electronic distributor and coil from my 69 Barracuda with mild 440 and install the Sniper 4140 EFI and Hyperspark Ignition (Distributor, Coil, Ignition Box, harness) system. Of course, there is no easy switched power so run the pink wire through the firewall into the cab and hook it to a fuse to get things fired up. I go through the Wizard on the screen, ensure ECU software is updated and put in all my information. I turn the key and it fires right up. I grab my light and ensure my timing at idle is at 15 degrees. Turn off the engine. All is good, but now need to decide if I want a toggle switch for the fuel pump every time I want to stop and start the car or spend hours on forums and a couple of calls to Holley trying to determine how and where to find power in both run and start. I find a suggestion of simply tying the pink wire to the wire that was on the plus side of my coil. I turn the key to run and the pump comes on. I turn further right to start and it fires up and runs great. I turn off the key and everything shuts down as it should. Probably should have left it like that but saw posts on threads that say the ballast resister needs to be excluded. I eventually want to pull out all the old ignition system so a way to remove the ballast resister is welcomed. I have a blue wire to one side of the ballast resistor and a blue & Brown wire going together into a factory plug to the other side of the ballast resistor. I unplug both from the ballast resistor and put a jumper across eliminating the ballast resistor, tying in the brown and blue wire and this third blue wire I’m not sure where is from. I turn the key on, and the pump runs for 5 seconds, screen is lit up. Since I had the ground wire off the battery I go through the Wizard again and populate the questions, turn the key and it fires up. Rough running for 4-7 seconds then cleans right up and idles fine. After about 10-12 seconds the engine dies and fuel pump keeps running. I turn off the key, go to try again and it’s locked up. I check the battery connections and find the main negative cable from the EFI harness system loose. I tighten it up thinking that might be it. I turn the key to run then start but only the starter engages and won’t turn over. I pull the number 1 spark plug and find gas. I pull them all out and the cylinders are full of fuel. I turn over engine by hand at the crank, get all the gas out, put some oil in each cylinder, rotate the engine by hand to get some lubrication back on the cylinder walls, then change out oil and filter. Find lots of gas in the crankcase when draining oil. Add new filter, fresh oil and all is back to square one.
I suspect the cause was the loose ground wire so tighten it up, check all connections and just to be sure I find top dead center and set the distributer again with the plastic cap, then retry. I turn the key to run and fuel pump runs for 5 seconds. I input everything into the Wizard again and turn the key to start. It fires right up but every 1-2 seconds it misses, almost dies, then runs again for a couple seconds, then quits. Start it again and it then lets out a pretty good backfire, runs for a couple seconds, dies, runs a couple more seconds, dies, then quits. I think it is flooded so I push accelerator to the floor, turn the key and it fires up but wants to die. I keep throttling it to keep it going but it dies again and is locked up with fuel again in the cylinders. I remove the gas, add oil to the cylinders, turn over by hand. Install plugs. No gas in the crankcase this time so now I sit scared to do anything more.
So….now I don’t know what the heck is going on. Was it the bypass of the ballast resistor? Was it the loose EFI harness ground wire? Was it the backfire or raw gas that fouled the Oxygen sensor? I updated the software for the Ignition box but didn’t for the screen, could that be it? If it starts but wants to die, me peddling the throttle to try keep it going probably wasn't helping if its trying to learn?
I’m at a loss and cannot keep dumping fuel into my cylinders. I’m hoping someone out there has maybe had the same or similar experience and was able to overcome it.
I did put the Sniper and Hyperspark on at the same time so went right with the Hyperspark wiring harness. There is one connection open but believe that is if you want to run your own coil, so haven’t plugged anything into it. I had it running the first time with the pink wire to a constant power source and again when the pink wire was connected to the “old” + coil wire, so I don’t think that plug has anything to do with the system. Any help will be very much appreciated.
I suspect the cause was the loose ground wire so tighten it up, check all connections and just to be sure I find top dead center and set the distributer again with the plastic cap, then retry. I turn the key to run and fuel pump runs for 5 seconds. I input everything into the Wizard again and turn the key to start. It fires right up but every 1-2 seconds it misses, almost dies, then runs again for a couple seconds, then quits. Start it again and it then lets out a pretty good backfire, runs for a couple seconds, dies, runs a couple more seconds, dies, then quits. I think it is flooded so I push accelerator to the floor, turn the key and it fires up but wants to die. I keep throttling it to keep it going but it dies again and is locked up with fuel again in the cylinders. I remove the gas, add oil to the cylinders, turn over by hand. Install plugs. No gas in the crankcase this time so now I sit scared to do anything more.
So….now I don’t know what the heck is going on. Was it the bypass of the ballast resistor? Was it the loose EFI harness ground wire? Was it the backfire or raw gas that fouled the Oxygen sensor? I updated the software for the Ignition box but didn’t for the screen, could that be it? If it starts but wants to die, me peddling the throttle to try keep it going probably wasn't helping if its trying to learn?
I’m at a loss and cannot keep dumping fuel into my cylinders. I’m hoping someone out there has maybe had the same or similar experience and was able to overcome it.
I did put the Sniper and Hyperspark on at the same time so went right with the Hyperspark wiring harness. There is one connection open but believe that is if you want to run your own coil, so haven’t plugged anything into it. I had it running the first time with the pink wire to a constant power source and again when the pink wire was connected to the “old” + coil wire, so I don’t think that plug has anything to do with the system. Any help will be very much appreciated.
