holley vs Edlebrock

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i went through 3 yes, three performers , a 600 a 625 and a 750, all in excellent condition and i couldnt get any of them to hold a tune on my 360. and then i bought a 600 manual choke vac secondary (1850s) and i will tell you that thing runs like a bat outa hell and i will not put any thing but a holley on that 360. i love AFBs and AVSs but for some reason i could not get those performers to run for me on that particular engine. things that make you go hmmmmm.......
 
LOL, Like, no doubt.... He he he he
 
I agree with testing the vacuum advance diaphragm for leaks. Put a Mighty-Mite type hand pump on it and see if it holds vacuum. Harbor Freight has an inexpensive model. Otherwise, I can't see how connecting the vacuum line would make a radical difference in how it idles. I never notice a difference other than with a timing light, and it shouldn't make any correction at idle, only as you rev on the low end. Even if you connected to straight vacuum, it should make little difference. Many Jeep owners do that purposefully so they don't get a bog off idle. I assume that when you don't have the line on, you plug the port. If you leave it sucking air, let us know since that is a big clue if it runs better that way.

Most people have a love/hate relationship with carburetors. It is probably more due to problems with individual ones or misapplication than design issues. It is hard to know what is going on inside one. The biggest misapplication is "over-carbing", i.e. selecting one too large. The least sensitive to over-size are spread-bore designs with tiny primaries - Carter Thermoquad and Rochester Quadrajet. The Thermoquad was standard on many Mopar engines from ~1972+. Though rated 800 cfm, I understand essentially the same model was used on the smallest V-8's. The Quadrajet was mostly GM, but on some Mopars in the 80's. While many FABO love Thermoquads, good ones are rare, parts are expensive, and it is a learning curve to tune them.

The biggest downside of spread-bores is that both have mechanical secondaries. If you "floor it" at low speed, you open up the secondaries which gives poor fuel atomization. The cure for that is "vacuum secondaries", which is mainly Holley models. The carb has a "mechanical computer" which operates the secondaries based on need (air flow). I think those are only in a "square-bore" pattern.

Most factory intake manifolds fit only a spread-bore or square-bore, not both. You need adapters otherwise, and must correct for the added height (hood clearance, divorced choke fit, etc.). Most aluminum after-market intakes can mount either. Changing carb models seems easy until you deal with throttle and tranny connections, varying fuel inlet locations, and choke connection. Be careful with some carbs. Holley made "spread-bore replacements" that look like a square-bore (almost equal sized primaries & secondaries), but they won't fit a square-bore manifold.

What do I have? Most of the above to try on my 273 and 383, plus some Holley TBI units. Just for experimenting and testing mileage. You can always sell them again on ebay for close to what you paid.
 
Holley it is! I have heard all good things about the 3310 Holley. I want to thank everybody that has commented!!

Good luck and good choice. Take your time and tune that baby up!


Bill said;
The biggest downside of spread-bores is that both have mechanical secondaries. If you "floor it" at low speed, you open up the secondaries which gives poor fuel atomization. The cure for that is "vacuum secondaries", which is mainly Holley models. The carb has a "mechanical computer" which operates the secondaries based on need (air flow). I think those are only in a "square-bore" pattern.

Closer to tightening the spring that loads against the opening of the secondaries air door. Not so with AFB's, but, AVS's and TQ's can do this. (No computer. ;) )
The really low gear set cars suffer from this no matter what. Even if the secondary air door doesn't open up, there can be and for the most part is enuff air to draw fuel from the bars.

I don't mind a TQ on a car if it is a good one. Rare is now, 10 - 15 years from now...thphhh forgadttaboutit.

I like my TQ on a light weight high geared hot rod. Freaks people out. LOL!
 
Holley carb don't you hate when all that gas spills out during a jet or valve change right on ur clean engine ... if its hot God forbid better have a fire extinguisher handy..
 
Holley carb don't you hate when all that gas spills out during a jet or valve change right on ur clean engine ... if its hot God forbid better have a fire extinguisher handy..

a rag will solve that problem.....
 
If you still aren't happy, after trying that Holley you bought, get a 670 Street Avenger, and give it a go. I'll bet you will be very pleased. It would be perfect for your combo(which is similar to mine, but I have a single plane intake)
 
Street Demon
DEM-1902.jpg
 
I see this is a renewed thread and i wasn't a member then but with that said........I've had some AVS carbs that ran really well but i prefer Holley's!

The exception to the rule for me is the 4160 mdl. I've had many but i converted every one with a metering block kit. At one point i had enough metering plates to melt down and make several new full carbs...lol.

Considering the ease of adjustment....float,pump shot cams, squirters, power valves, secondary springs, and with a little time spent tuning i have had great sucess with them. Of course i'm talking street/strip carbs not full race with adjustable bleeds and such.

My second choice is a Quadrajet, but that's for another forum:D.
 
Holley carb don't you hate when all that gas spills out during a jet or valve change right on ur clean engine ... if its hot God forbid better have a fire extinguisher handy..

All it takes is a cap off a paint can to catch the gas. If you can sneak one of your wife's 1/2 cup plastic measuring cups out of the kitchen they work good too, LOL. I also lay a rag on the manifold to catch any residue that dribbles down.
 
All it takes is a cap off a paint can to catch the gas. If you can sneak one of your wife's 1/2 cup plastic measuring cups out of the kitchen they work good too, LOL. I also lay a rag on the manifold to catch any residue that dribbles down.

That would be to easy fishy..... it's got to catch on fire! lol
 
So much of the comparison of carbs depends on tuning and matching of size. Holly and Carter rate the flow of the carbs differently as I understand it. Holly runs a much larger accelerator pump which overcomes low speed tuning issues.

Carter has a better and more tunable intermediate curcuit (metering rods and springs), and can be better adapted to different cams/heads and the like. Carter AFB's are harder to tune for secondary throttle opeing, but the AVS is easily adjustable using the secondary air valve spring.

So just swapping carbs is not a valid comparison. All aspects must be taken into account. Note that Stock and Super Stock racers are able to extract exceptional performance out of stock carbs (mostly Carter's in the case of Mopars). So it is more about tuning than design of the carb. Holly carbs may just be easier to drop on and run, but at the sacrifice of fuel economy for street driving. And this can be a lot in my experience.
For a small block, I would look at running the 1 11/32 primary (440) AVS carb and tune or have it tuned properly.

Just my thoughts,
Bob
 
Depends on the use. If you want to not tinker with it much...Edelbrock. If you drive the car all the time and need it for a daily, you'd probably want an Edelbrock.

If you need raw power, get a Holley. Everytime I switched, the Holley makes more power. If you need evidence, walk by the cars at the dragstrip and peek under the hood. 9 of 10 times, you can bet there is a Holley bolted to the intake. They are kind of like the SBC of carbs, you can get anything you want to tune them and not really that expensive either.

I like Thermoquads to but...I don't like how they are not the easiest thing to get parts for. I have seen a few with bowls cracked on them and then I guess it would pay to have a backup carb for parts??

The Thermoquad bowl keeps the fuel cooler though. I have never heard of one vapor locking.
 
One more plug for dual Carters--with both secondary air doors removed. Geared and stall correctly, it kick as hard-or harder-then any Holley, short of the Holley 1000 cfm plus racing carbs.

Now if you could run 2 holley's....that intake is super rare.

Its ashame the SBM couldn't have as many types of intakes as the SBC has
 
Just my .02 and you may already know this. the vacuum advance on the distributor is designed to advance timing at higher RPM's. It works along with the counterweights inside the Distributor which work off centrifugal force. Your vacuum line needs to be hooked up to ported vacuum so that it applies vacuum at part throttle to full throttle. If your car runs like poo with the vacuum advance hooked up, there could be a few things wrong there. It sounds like you are hooked up to manifold vacuum for starters.
 
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