Hooker headers with Milodon 8ct pan

-
K

KS Hcode

Active Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2024
Messages
38
Reaction score
22
Location
Salina, KS
First off, I have searched and looked but cannot find what I am looking for.

I put a Milodon 8 ct pan on my 360 in my 71 Duster. For the life of me, I cannot get these headers to fit around the pan as well as the torsion bars. Trying to an exhaust system to mate up to this engine/A833 has been the most frustrating thing I have ever had to deal with.

I am hoping there is someone on here who can assist me. Also, I have had the motor mounted in the car without having to do any K member mods.
 
Might have to "adjust" the headers a bit.... or modify the pan sump. (I'm assuming the triangular sump pan. You can use a hammer and drift on the headers, if you need to spread the headers you could use a ratchet strap or come-along tied to a tree.
I had to modify the front corner of a milodon triangle sump pan to clear the headers for a big block C10. Cut the corner off at an angle till the headers fit, then welded up a piece of sheet metal to seal the hole.
Edit: the ONLY set of headers that I've ever had that didn't need some "adjusting" was a custom set, welded up on (and off) the car. $1500 when a set of hookers were under $200.
 
Last edited:
It's total bullcrap what Mopar guys have to go through. I feel for you. We have to dent and bash parts that cost a grand plus. When Chevy guys have been runnin 8 quart pans with 2" primary tubes that actually FIT with no modifications. With big block. In a first generation Camaro no less. It's frustrating for sure. It's a wonder as many guys carry the Mopar banner that do.
 
So RRR, you are saying that I have bit off a big bite huh?

33IMP, I hooked up the hoist and pulled the engine out of the car and there was no way to do that so I lowered the engine with the headers in the compartment and couldn’t make that work either. I am wondering if I am ever gonna get to wire this thing up so I can here it run….
 
TTI and I'm pretty sure Dougs fit small blocks with Milodon 8 qt. pans. There is suppose to be a Hooker may fit also but don't know which the part #. Milodon also has a similar 7 qt. pan but you'll have to contact Milodon or ask around. TTI's have the #& pipe separate because it goes out and around the frame and slips into the collector.

Did you install the 8 qt. with the engine in or out of the car? Usually you'll need to cut a little "V" out of the k-frame lip so the right-front corner of the pan clears it during R&R of the engine.
 
I installed it out of the the engine. We did the entire assembly then put it in the engine bay. Fit really easy.

I have taken everything off of the K member minus the torsion bars. Also I have raised the engine…no go. Raised the front of the car as high as possible, 30” or so, nothing. I have already gone FAR over my budget on this build and I still have a lot left to purchase to make it a driver…

Needless to say this has not been what I was hoping for. It did allow me the chance to spend a lot of time with my dad, which was the reason for the project.
 
If you dropped the engine in without the transmission installed, that might be why the oil pan cleared the k-member.

When I first got my a-body with the headers that came with it and installed the pan, I had to beat the heck out of the pan and headers to make it fit where the passenger side flared out. I was in a hurry to get it in to make a race. I changed the headers as soon as I could afterwards. I don't recall if they were Hooker or Headman. But whatever brand you have, like everybody has said, you'll have to heavily modify something or change it. Don't know about trans clearance, mods or tweaks.

Have you checked header/ torsion bar clearance with the block & heads but without the pan.
 
I have not checked with the pan off. That is out of the question now too as it is full of oil. Well guess it is not out of the question but another hassle I don’t have time for at the moment.

This entire project has just been a nightmare. Hopefully it will be worth it in the end.
 
KS Hcode said:
First off, I have searched and looked but cannot find what I am looking for.

I put a Milodon 8 ct pan on my 360 in my 71 Duster. For the life of me, I cannot get these headers to fit around the pan as well as the torsion bars. Trying to an exhaust system to mate up to this engine/A833 has been the most frustrating thing I have ever had to deal with.

I am hoping there is someone on here who can assist me. Also, I have had the motor mounted in the car without having to do any K member mods.
Click to expand...
The Tubular Automotive 1-7/8 headers TDR8 will fit with the Milodon kick out pan.

See this link for pics

[SOLD] - Mopar 340 race headers, New NOS Tubular Automotive, A body

The Hooker 1-3/4” #5204 is a no go. I learned the hard way. The hooker #5303 1-7/8” race header might fit. They are no longer produced. As previously mentioned TTI will fit.

I had to go with the MOROSO straight sump pan, 8 qt years ago. Also try the KEVCO straight sump pans. They make several different configurations that don’t hang very low and have oil control baffles.

7C1E46B3-BA32-49BE-BD83-C78572C1FC3D.png
 
Thank you for your reply Duster W2. I will check those out if I cannot make these fit. These are the 1 5/8 hooker that look similar to the cheap jegs headers.
 
One has to be extra careful with the Moroso 8 qt. Unless they changed it, the Moroso 360 pans have the drain plug "IN" the bottom of the pan as opposed to "AT" the bottom but on the side. The Moroso 8 qt. is already a bit deeper than the Milodon 8 qt. and the head of the drain plug hangs down a little bit more. Catch it just right on a speed bump, wheelstand or roll off the edge of a road and it will tear out the drain plug. I found out the hard way through the 3rd example.
 
I refuse to spend another huge chunk of funds on another pan. I would rather buy another set of headers. I have one more run at getting these to fit then it may be time to buy other headers…
 
Maybe you tried this and maybe it's no help but, I run a milodon 8 quart pan on my 340 and getting the motor and headers in are always a battle. I wire the driver side up out of the way in the motor compartment then lowering the motor in with the car nice and high on stands . I drop the passenger side header in unattached along with the motor fighting it all the way definitely a two-person job. Very frustrating when you have a freshly painted engine compartment. Mine are jegs headers.
 
Dart Frog, I have not tried this and it sounds like the answer I have been looking for! Couple questions, where exactly do you wire the drivers side to? Second, how high do you have the car raised? Thanks in advance!
 
Last time has been a couple of years now but if I remember correctly header flange wired to top of shock and the car not to high I don't think it to important.. after you get it started you will hang the driver side and work the passenger side into place.its always mean...hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
Some of these headers were developed long before these kick out pans came along.

You can’t blame the header for that.

I’d rather run a header that works and doesn’t fit a kick out pan than the other way around.
 
My jegs headers worked pretty darn good for cheapies no complaints at all. heavy flanges and they didn't hang as low as some of the previous brands I had. I did have to clearance them away from the pan because they were touching and I just didn't like that , but after a little praying and a lot of cursing everything went in.

IMG_20241117_140043038.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top