Hot 318

-
V

valiant74

Mopar Nut
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Gatineau Quebec
New to the site, not sure if I am doing this right however, I am running my original 318 engine with a edlebrock 4 bbl and carb. Set up is by the numbers however I have severe heat issues. Rad is original 18" 2 core for 2 bbl intake.
Engine gets so hot the fuel perculates and the engine stalls. Runs fine after cools down. Rad does have shroud and 5 blade flex fan.

Any ideas on cooling this machine down and avoiding the embarrasing stalling would be welcom.
 
Sure, it would be upgraded like;

New rad, for the car. If there was a 340 option, research the size. A 3 core will help. If not a new one, boil it out and make sure it can flow alot of water well.
Dump the flex fan for a Mopar Viscous fan. Seriously, much better.
A MoPar water pump. The HP pumps are A/C pumps. I have found the MP
prices cheaper myself over a regular order of the same part.

After this, re-check your timing. To much can cause un-do heat and boil stones.

I have found good results from water wetter.
 
It states in the MP A engine book to stay away from the A/C pumps...you are supposed to use and 8-blade HD pump for a non-A/C car for extra flow.
 
All good recomendations,
Also if you dont have a carb spacer,get a 1/2"-1' phenolic or wood spacer.
Helps cool the carb.

Also wondering what kind of shape your Rad/ heater core is in?
Most heat issues are caused by a radiator that isnt flowing as it should.


Lose the flex fan and go with the stock fan or like Rumble suggested the viscous fan.

A lean car will run hot,plus as stated check timing.

All in all if your car is in proper running order it should run cool with stock parts.
 
Johnny Dart said:
All good recomendations,
Also if you dont have a carb spacer,get a 1/2"-1' phenolic or wood spacer.
Helps cool the carb.

Also wondering what kind of shape your Rad/ heater core is in?
Most heat issues are caused by a radiator that isnt flowing as it should.


Lose the flex fan and go with the stock fan or like Rumble suggested the viscous fan.

A lean car will run hot,plus as stated check timing.

All in all if your car is in proper running order it should run cool with stock parts.
Click to expand...
Carb spacer is synthetic material and the rad was recored 2core 3 years ago. flows fine. So far seems the flex fan is an issue. I have the original and a new 6 blade steel from summit. Original is the 4 blade type. Any suggestions on the best one to use?
 
rumblefish360 said:
Sure, it would be upgraded like;

New rad, for the car. If there was a 340 option, research the size. A 3 core will help. If not a new one, boil it out and make sure it can flow alot of water well.
Dump the flex fan for a Mopar Viscous fan. Seriously, much better.
A MoPar water pump. The HP pumps are A/C pumps. I have found the MP
prices cheaper myself over a regular order of the same part.

After this, re-check your timing. To much can cause un-do heat and boil stones.

I have found good results from water wetter.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the flex fan has got to go. I have a steel 4 blade (original) and a new steel 6 blade. Any thoughts on the best?
 
Hell Try'em Both. Are Either A Clutch Type? Or Direct? The Clutch Type Will Free Up Some Power And Also Mantain Temp Better. Scrounge Around A Salvage Yard Or 2 And Try To Find A Cop Car Dippy Fan And Clutch . I Dont Know What Width It Would Be But It Might Work Or Maybe A Older Dodge Truck...have You Looked Into A Rad Out A Later Model B Body? I'm Sorry Have A Horrible Habit Of Wanting To Use Stock Heavy Duty Componets (within Reason)from All Years Models That Will Work Without Heavy Modding...
 
valiant74 said:
Sounds like the flex fan has got to go. I have a steel 4 blade (original) and a new steel 6 blade. Any thoughts on the best?
Click to expand...
The viscous fan is best, but as quoted below.......

I'm Sorry Have A Horrible Habit Of Wanting To Use Stock Heavy Duty Componets (within Reason)from All Years Models That Will Work Without Heavy Modding...
Click to expand...
And with good reason. Some of the stock parts are very very good and make there way into the MP catolog as HP parts. Not every thermoclutch fan is the same as a MP Viscous though some will scream it is and swear to the heavens I'm wrong.
The only problem is old clutchs wear out and can/could have leeaked in the past making them inefficeient. (Humm, sp!)

Dusterb318
It states in the MP A engine book to stay away from the A/C pumps...you are supposed to use and 8-blade HD pump for a non-A/C car for extra flow.
Click to expand...

I just read the entire cooling systems chapter. I might have missed it. Tell me where. It does say the 8 blade pump for circle track race engines. It also states there OK for service replacement. BEcause thats what they really are.

The use of a 6 place can replace that of an 8 blade to use less HP is the only thing I see.
Somewhere it also said if cooling was an issue still, to swap to the 8 blade unit.
 
I can't remember exactly where...I might have mis-understood it as well since I was having some cooling issues and was cruising through that section for some ideas. I could have swore it said the AC pumps were'nt a good as the non-AC pumps. I'll look over the weekend and see if I can find it again

I just had my wife look at the book at home on page 246 on the right column Water pump section it states:

"If engine cooling is causing a problem the 1970-73 Non-A/C water pumps should be used."
 
Sorry, I edited it while you were in reply.
(Doing several things at once I must have hit the reply button here. Sorry)

I get the jist that the A/C pumps pump more water at a higher pressure at a HP cost. They didn't state exactly how much it takes per pump. Only about 10 hp @ 7,000 rpm's for a water pump.
 
NP...I was editing my reply as well....:D

Yeah that section can be confusing...as far as I'm concerned the better cooling is more of a priority than the 5hp loss that you might get from the 8-blade WP vs the 6-blade. I was/am still haveing some cooling issues with my 318. I just installed a Viscious Fan and took out my electric fan and I put on a HD 8-blade WP for a truck application. I'm waiting on my new Bigs 650 carb to show up so I can go for a test drive to check and see if the fan and WP will solve my cooling issue. I was seeing temps of 200-210 and I don't like it getting that hot.
 
What thermostat are you running too? You should be running a 180 or 195 temp T-stat. A 160 will have you over heating as well because it will never close and not allow the coolant to dump enough heat while in the radiator thus not letting the radiator actually do it's job. The viscious fan isn't cheap but it's the best clutch fan out there.
 
Yes please get rid of the flex fan lol. The purpose of them is to flex, and after a long time the metal starts to get week from flexing and can break, I have seen it happen and its not pretty to see a fan come breaking off going down the interstate lol.
 
Well guys I tracked down the problem finally. It seems that the 4 bbl intake is equipped with a heat riser choke system and if you use the electric choke option on the carberator you need to block of these ports in the intake using a non-egr and non-heat riser gasket kit. The hot exhaust flows through this port and with no place to go heats up the atomized fuel so much that it evaporates before it hits the cylinders. If you are upgrading the 2 LA egr equiped 318 and do not want to use the egr, use the 4 bbl intake non-egr from Edlebrock. If you have the 4 bbl with egr than you will need to install the 4 bbl intake gaskets that block off this port. Happy motoring.
 
valiant74 said:
driving is fine only hot when idle. I have used the water wetter and the timing and idle is bang on. I checked into the 3 core good option but pricey.
Click to expand...

I had that problem and solved it easy.

DSCN0320Medium.JPG


DSCN0328Medium.JPG
 
Interesting... i'm running the factory radiator that came with the duster(original 318 car),never have had an overheat problem running the 416 or 360 under the hood and this with no shroud..on a car that see lots of track time,and running straight water..hmm..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top