Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
That’s a piss poor way to dyno an engine. Don’t blame the dyno. Don’t even blame the operator. That’s the end users issue.
How can i make 700 horse from a 410 stroker
- Thread starter 79Powerwagon
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That’s a piss poor way to dyno an engine. Don’t blame the dyno. Don’t even blame the operator. That’s the end users issue.
And this is why you run into crap and so often get corrected.Never have raced, got a car with a 380 hp crate engine and I plan on downsizing the cam
Then you cry about it. No one wants to hear it. But you still complain about it.
Perhaps IF and WHEN you actually start racing, you’ll actually know something and zip it until you get there.
Cry about what?
What crap, what correction?
All I said in this post was what > the OP should get a knowledgeable builder and that he'd probably have to spin it to 7000-8000 rpm to make 650-700 hp, plus gave him links to builds that might help him so what misleading info did I give him?
I bet no one on this site has built a 700 hp sbm mud truck engine, have you? has anyone that posted here? So why is there 7 pages?
Like everyones likes to say hp is just a calculation and I know how to use a calculator, best you can debate what I said is my use of 90% of peak tq at peak hp, it generally is 85-95%.
What's the most torque per cid have you done aka how competent of a builder are you?
Do your engines average over 1.3 lbs-ft just curious? so I know how well I should listen to you.
All I know about you is you got garage full of mopar parts, you could be just as or less than competent as UTG for all I know. My uncle races top alcohol and manufactures billet hemi blocks doesn't make him an expert he probably knows what he's talking but I bet it's more from the fact he rich and can afford it out of pocket.
I've never pretend to have lots of practical knowledge, and just cause people race doesn't automatically mean they know anything especially if they got money, not hard to buy a fast car.
Funny I get more likes and agreements than dislikes from you, so you must be close to how dumb I am lol
And the above is what I was talking about and proving me right, again, thank you very much, have a great day. Let us know when you start racing and learning something instead of talking crap about what you have never done.
Uh-huh…..Funny I get more likes and agreements than dislikes from you, so you must be close to how dumb I am lol
Never have raced, got a car with a 380 hp crate engine and I plan on downsizing the cam
And that’s fine but when you come across sounding like you have traveled the road it makes you sound like an expert. It’s not all about numbers on a blackboard, or a dyno room. You could give three guys the same 500 horsepower and some guys are going to make it run like 550 and some guys are going to make it run like 400. Sorry for putting you on the spot there. Just to use an example at our college in pittsburgh we had a mechanic engineer that just graduated from college. This gentleman was 100 times smarter than I could ever dream of being. Being a Millwright I worked with mechanical engineers almost everyday. Well this young man jacked up his car in the school parking lot to fix a problem. Minutes later he was found dead with the car on top of him. There’s a lesson in this story and it doesn’t take brains to learn from it. RIP young man.
I get what your saying, never pretended to be an expert, but if I feel i have something to add I do.
I agree but also everything ain’t about drag racing, bet a very small percent race regularly of those with a performance car, and I say very little about racing cause like you point out it’s not my thing.
No worries, I got nothing to hide.
Never said Theories formulas etc.. are the end all, but they do have there place.
There’s nothing controversial about using a version of torque x rpm/ 5252 = hp, torque per cid, and torque at peak hp is a percentage of peak torque to find the rough area peak hp rpm could occur, I say average is about 90% but torque is generally falls 85-95% of peak torque at peak hp. This is about the only thing that really could be debated as wrong, but it still could help the OP to at least know where he has to spin it to, that may or may not be a problem for the OP but to me is valuable info that no one has proved/showed that I’m wrong.
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Still waiting to hear about your amazing accomplishment that allow you to act like the #1 peacock and talk down and insult members on the regular. I only try to be cordial to you cause of your present on this site, I'm not into drama, and you can be alright sometimes
Plus I'm sure pitsburghracer didn't need you for backup, your input wasn't necessary.
Hey ho and hood it right there, that is a line of BS and you know it but! If you want, this is totally up to you now, but, if you want me to start talking down to you like a little log of **** covered in diarrhea, just let me know and I’ll paint you right on up on a daily basis, no problem.
However you act like the peaCOCK a whole lot and the proof is above and your continued replies are proving me right again.
Thanks for proving me right. AGAIN
Ditto until you’re corrected or called out. Then the crying begins.I only try to be cordial to you cause of your present on this site, I'm not into drama, and you can be alright sometimes
Stop it, just stop it, seek help.
That’s for **** sure.
Only in your eyes.
You guys are radicals. Lol. This jokester game is a lot easier than posting tech. Have a great evening.
You to John!
lead69
hopeless car junkie
Actually callies has the original blue prints for the R3 block and when they are done with the big blocks the plan is to reproduce the R block. This was originally told to me by the parts manager at a chrylser dealership and confirmed by callies themselves, it's actually their sister company that makes the blocks. They probably won't be cheap but it will be another option. I still don't see why everyone seems to pass on the ritter block, Kent has them sorted and they are not anything special to machine to get them where a stock x/r block are. I'm sure their will be those that bring up old blocks ect ect but I have seen too many build them with nothing special and there is a wealth of info out there if you look, I would have gone that route if I didn't already have a virgin R block.
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Brian Hafliger
Well-Known Member
Order a Ritter block and then let us know how easy it is to prepare!
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Two ways, RPM or boost. For a 4X4 truck RPM is not a practical way to go. So that leaves boost. For that you need a strong block, especially the lower end. Then all forged internals. Any time you are running boost, the exhaust volume is increased so "nitrous" heads or installing larger exhaust valves and increasing port cross sectional area will help. Definately so on superchargers. Turbos need unrestricted exhaust to keep cylinder side of the exhaust valve pressure low. Your turbo pressure ratio should be 1:1.
For a cam, I would want to control overlap so you do not bleed boost out the exhaust valves. Whichever you choose, go with a reputable cam manufacturer. Mike Jones of Jones Cams in Denver, NC is good. Just know he is a bit expensive but getting components that really work normally is.
It’s someone else’s turn. Lmao
Initial expense is the issue. Added machine work is the other cost that you already know is a bad taste. Any time money leaves my wallet there is a bad taste.
Off hand, I don’t know what a Ritter block costs and the additional expense’s are also an unknown AND a variable expense. Not all machine shops charge get the same.
More or less the same issue with the MP race blocks. Initial expense is a lot. If you’re a serious person and or racer, the price is acceptable when a honest big power mill is being looked at. Not many diving into their wallets for this. Few build anything approaching the actual need for a race block.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
I have never EVER seen an aftermarket block of any brand for any brand that didn’t require a TON of work to get in shape.
So I’m calling bullshit on the Ritter taking more work than any other block.
My X block took a **** ton of work to use. And it needs more work.
So that excuse is just that. An excuse. Any engine that requires an aftermarket block will be expensive.
You can buy several different levels of SBC blocks from Dart. When you get to the block equivalent to the Ritter you’ll find the cost is within a few hundred bucks. And they both need the same work.
lead69
hopeless car junkie
So other than all the basic machining what extra secret cost is involved to compare to any virgin x or r block machine work job?.
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lead69
hopeless car junkie
While I appreciate what your saying I have to say regarding race blocks that's a load of crapola lol. If you are complaining about a race block being expensive and then having to machine it then you don't need it. You should see what our buddy spent on his sbc dart block, it's pretty close in money spent compared to a mopar race block when done. Last time I checked a ritter block was around $4500 shipped and add about $1,500 to 2k in machine work unless @Brian Hafliger has something to add to that. Cheap investment for someone who want's a block to live reliably. My car is 3,500 lb. pig (race weight) street car with a stick that is legal to go 8.50 and that's the plan at some point so for me a race block is an overall cheap investment (and a requirement) to eventually achieve my goals.
lead69
hopeless car junkie
I just have to point out that mopar guys are complaining about a lack of race parts and then saying they are too expensive!. I like to do more for less as well but jeez for guys to complain about a lack of race blocks then complain about the price of race blocks that ARE available is ridiculous.
Since you quoted me, can I assume this is directed at me?
On the cost of blocks, MP or Ritter, IDK what the overall deal is.
Perhaps my wording wasn’t good. I don’t see a difference between blocks from what they could need when they’re OOTB fresh. If one costs more than the other, then that’s the way it is. If one company cost more than the other, than that’s the way it is.
I don’t know or care who is more expensive.
For the record, I did not and am not making any excuse on or for anything.
Wait, your saying the price of race blocks are cheap?
I just wanna be clear this is where you stand.
Read above my disclaimer on the price of race blocks and know this, if I need one then the cost is what it is. If my wallet is thick enough then it’ll be purchased.
I agree with this being cheap for a serious build and as you stated, longevity.
Why you think I think otherwise is beyond me. I nearly stated most people won’t spend that kind of money on a block. That’s just the fact. Proven by the amount of sales and the sea of MP/Ritter blocks you see everyday on the street.
$4500 + $2000 just block for a cruiser or street/strip HP mill?
Hey! If that’s OK by you, then go for it. I’ll settle on a 5.9 and use it accordingly thanks.
If I was building the engine the OP wanted, it would be a race block no doubt!
Saying what you said takes what I said out of context and you F’in know it. It’s F’in retarded to even state what you did it’s ridiculous. Don’t be a dickhead and show yourself as another short attention span reader trying throw trump cards on what you mis read or didn’t read. You will make yourself look like an dumbfuck asshole.
Just saying again, this post doesn’t fit what I was saying but within the initial response of your question which you did t like the answer to.
I am not complaining about race block availability or price.
Never did.
Re read what I wrote.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Like I said Rob, when you look at blocks that are equal (regardless of the brand of the block or the brand of engine) the Ritter block isn’t much more expensive than any other block. And the Ritter block, at least the later ones do not require any more machine work than any other block. That’s what I’m saying.
You can get cheaper blocks for SBC’s (for example Dart makes a block that is nothing more than an upgrade in materiel over a 400 chevy block and it’s by no means a race block but it’s cheaper than a Ritter but it’s not even close to what the Ritter is) that you can’t get for a SBM but I don’t suggest guys needing a block buy the cheaper replacement block.
What I’m saying is comparing like for like, the Ritter block is no more expense or work than any other equivalent aftermarket block.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I bought a Ritter cast block, ran new $2700 shipped and had about $3000 machine work for the basic the only thing I did that cost more was the addition of roller cam bearings. Then I drilled the holes in the deck for the heads I was using. The aluminum blocks go for a lot more. Plus the cast iron block might have gone up since I bought one back in 2017.
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