How da hell do you pull off the hub from drum!

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NewOrleansCuda

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:happy10:Okay, so I did the back brakes. Golden!

Now for the fronts! I did some recon this afternoon and noticed the hubs and drums are pretty much fused together. Go figure!

I know a machine shop can seperate these hubs from drums but is there any kinda trick to pop dem suckers off! My back already hurts from the rear shoes as I spent a great deal of pounding away those 20yr old drums.
 
NewOrleansCuda said:
I know a machine shop can seperate these hubs from drums but is there any kinda trick to pop dem suckers off! My back already hurts from the rear shoes as I spent a great deal of pounding away those 20yr old drums.
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Regarding the back drums. Why did you have to pound on the drums? Did you not pull the rubber grommet off the back side of the backing plate, and stick your flathead screwdriver inside, and manually turn the sprocket to take the tension off the shoes?
 
Going to put disc on some hub spindles maybe, Not sure daredevil
 
Unless your replacing the fropnt drum with one that didnt come with the hub, there isnt any reason to remove the drum from the hub. To remove the drum just to do the brakes you remove the center bearing dust cap, pin, cage and unscew the nut.

This sounds obvious to most but I could understand not knowing how to remove the drum IF you have never worked on front drum brakes before. You should REALLY get a repair manual for your make and model OR at least a haynes manual covering 1960something and up rear wheel drive mopars. From the late 60's to the late 70's BASIC technology of our cars really didnt change too much.

You should be able to get to the front shoes in less then 10 minutes without hammering anything
 
70DartMike said:
Regarding the back drums. Why did you have to pound on the drums? Did you not pull the rubber grommet off the back side of the backing plate, and stick your flathead screwdriver inside, and manually turn the sprocket to take the tension off the shoes?
Click to expand...

some people beat the rear drum to loosen the shoes up a bit....I know, just adjust them out thought the back plate holes, but none the less.

the other is...just like the front hubs rusting/sticking to the drum so do the rear axle hubs.
 
You can't just pound the hell out of the front drums, otherwise you risk cracking the hub.
Unfortunately alot of new drums require the existing hubs to be transfered across. Did the drums come with some instructions in the box, because there is a technic to use to help ensure the hubs don't get damaged during this process.
 
yes, I agree do not use any sort of caveman technology to remove your hubs,you WILL distort the parts,if you must separate them,go to a competent machine shop and ask nicely,perhaps they will assist you and it will be less expensive than pounding,just my opinion.
 
you have to knurl down the flared splines of the wheel studs, then after the drum is removed..knurl some more flush with the hubs face/flange, then press them out.

if don't remove the flare on the studs, you will ruin the hubs when pressing them out cause the flare will open the holes beyond any applicable replacement wheel stud.

I think you can just use short shoulder spline studs and just slip the drum on, this way the center of the hub still centers it and the wheel torqued will keep it soild, only catch is turning the drum...ya kinda need the hub to be fixed to the rotor to turn'em...

just more thoughts on this...
 
Okay ,,,I am in the same boat sorta. I am changing the wheel studs from left hand threads to right hands. The rear was pretty straight forward. The front however I am stumped. I did the ''caveman'' technique and got the drum seperated from the hub. Now I am in a bind because the hub is not wanting to work with me. Is there a way I can go to a local parts store and just buy the hub and drum assembly for the passenger side? Better yet does anyone have an exploded diagram of the whole assembly with bearings and races? How about possible part numbers and or stores to go to for the hub and drum together? I know have a lot of questions but I am now knee deep in it and am getting flak from the boss(wife) as to why the car is tore apart. Please help.
 
go to the back side(inside) and cut off the stud..knock
it out from the inside towards the outside. that will keep the
hole the correct size for the replacement stud.
if you knock/press from the outside towards the inside, the swedge
will enlarge the hole so that nothing will fit tightly.
....some folks then tack weld from the back side....
 
bearing races and seals will stay the same, check with NAPA store.
..no hub/drum assembly is available.
best bet may be to take your drum/hub and one wheel to a
machine shop and have them do your welding of the new studs.
..they must bet installed straight!!....(some folks can't do this at home)...
 
mrbill00 said:
go to the back side(inside) and cut off the stud..knock
it out from the inside towards the outside. that will keep the
hole the correct size for the replacement stud.

Unless you have something like an overgrown drill press or mill, I'm not sure how you would cut down the back side
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mrbill00 said:
have them do your welding of the new studs....
Click to expand...

There should not be any reason to weld the new studs


The "high tech" way, which was posted on this board some time ago, is to get a swedge cutter tool. This is a tool resembling a heavy duty holesaw. You put the cutter over the stud, and it removes the "swedge" on the front. In some cases, you don't even need to remove the stud--just remove the drum and slide the new one on. Just like the rears, there is no reason, really, to have the drum riveted in place.

Here's a step by step:

http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0805clt_1967_dodge_truck_brakes_dodgeing_disaster/index1.html
 
67Dart273 said:
The "high tech" way, which was posted on this board some time ago, is to get a swedge cutter tool. This is a tool resembling a heavy duty holesaw. You put the cutter over the stud, and it removes the "swedge" on the front.
Click to expand...

This is the correct way to do it, although it is more old school than "high tech". I had to find an old shop in town that had the tool and they let me do it right there. They hadn't used the tool in years!

All the beating in the world is not going to separate a drum that is swedged to the hub.
 
Brian T I have to differ-- I have a hub(paper weight) that my friend gave me-- he said they were the hardest studs --he ever had to get out--- Ya think?
i'll dig it out this weekend & compare the holes. Lawrence
 
Hello VDART,,, As you can tell the wheels and tires are trying to give me issues. Other than the drivers side everything else went fairly easy. I did get the hub off the drum with a little help from a BFH. So should I cut the backs off and push them out that way? i asked around some of the shops here in my little town and they have no clue what a swedge tool is. This is going to be fun. Almost like sticking a sharp stick in my eye. I am trying to track down a passenger hub and just swap the drivers side out. Thanks to everyone for all the information and help.
 
Did this on a '67 Coronet years ago. I took the drums/hubs to the machine shop, but you could do it yourself. Once the drum is off, the new drum likely has a much thicker section where it slips over the hub, right? It should slip over the hub with a close fit, like the rear drums do.
 
VDART said:
Brian T I have to differ-- I have a hub(paper weight) that my friend gave me-- he said they were the hardest studs --he ever had to get out--- Ya think?
i'll dig it out this weekend & compare the holes. Lawrence
Click to expand...

What are you differing with me about?!? Are you saying that your friend beat a hub loose that was swedged to the drum?!? I guess it could be done, but I doubt either part would be usable once you get them apart.

My new drum just slipped over the hub and was held in place by the wheel and lug nuts, just like on the rear.
 
INTERESTING that the initial question of WHY would anyone want to do that has yet to be answered....... Unless there is a huge issue with either the drum component or the hub component why would anyone separate them? WHat exactly is the issue you are trying to solve by crackin the hub/drum assy
 
Mine did not just slip off like the rear. In fact I had to take out the cotter pin, take off the nut and slip the whole thing off the spindle. Then after about 20 mins of beating the stud with a hammer the two came apart. I said a few choice words then started on the studs. One bent and the other just barely moved. Then looking at the hub I see the edges are scuffed. I will post pics later
 
Brian, I was being sarcastic--

I agree totally use the proper tool /technique to fix --

I was making fun of my friend (he has ASC certifications) & he beat the snot out his hubs---(he raced the 65 dart)

If you guys cannnot find a shop-- then by all means use the methods described to remove the front studs from the hub/drum assembly. It will take a little more time -- but same you grief in the long run
Actually --a sticky needs to be made for this conversion process on a mopar A body

Lawrence
 
Dixie...THATS because they are NOT supposed to come off like the rears!! The drum piece is swedged or peened onto the hub for a REASON!... having them together isn't a problem it's part of HOW front brakes are MADE. Unless there is a very compelling REASON to separate them it is not typically done. PLEASE Remember you are dealing with the Brakes on your classic...these are the ONLY way to STOP your car....if you are not qualified to repair brakes, or have zero experience at it....it might be best to leave that to professionals or at the very least a "brake" certified mechanic. I am pretty certain you do not want to push the pedal and discover you have done something wrong, just prior to impact.

PS beating them off with a BFH usually damages the hub or the drum or the studs or all three..... they now need to be re-certified to be "true" or "round" prior to using them in traffic situations..... if it is discovered after an accident that you have done such things without properly trued or rounded or certified brake parts.....they can and will hold you liable.... something to think about
 
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