How do go about installing fuel system?

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72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
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What i have is a stock tank. New sending unit, braided fuel line, inline canister filter, inline holley filter Carter Electronic pump. I need to install and route all the way up to the Y block in the engine bay.


Question which filter first coming out of the sending unit the canister style or the holley inline filter?

This is the pump http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-P4600HP/.

This is the canister filter http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1507/

This is the holley filter http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-162-523/.

I believe i can handle getting the tank in but is there any thing special about installing a sending unit?

After the filters and pump its pretty much cake from there as its a straight line up.

Return line yeah or neh?
 
You need to find out if that canister is recommended for "suction" use. ANY filter before a pump, IE on the suction side, must be very free flowing and have LOW pressure drop

The only advise I have about the sender is,

Make sure you have a new gasket, inspect the new retainer ring against your old one and use the heavier/ better made one if there is a difference. Don't overtighten, and LEAK test the thing. Since you have the tank out now, you can put a few gallons in, and tip it forward with the appropriate fittings plugged off to test.

Also, now would be a good time to SERIOUSLY consider a "vapor return" system. If you don't have return port type pressure regulator, you can use a Wix filter (others make 'em) which has a built in 1/4" return port. This needs to get routed back to the tank, so RIGHT NOW would be an excellent time to get a two port sender if you don't have one, or silver-braze a fitting into the tank for that purpose

THESE WORK!! First time I ever saw one was on my 70 440 sixpack RR, which was factory on the sixpack and hemi cars.

Wix 33040, 41 for 5/16 and 3/8 lines respectively

http://www.fleetfilter.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/33041.jpg
 
Let me see if I can decifer this bare with me. I was always under the impression that you didnt need a return line with a electric pump? I do have a Holley regulator that I can use in this system but with 2x600 holleys and a tunnel ram i figure im going to need every bit of that 8psi.

Am i correct in thinking the regulator will regulate the pressure and in turn kick out what it dont need back to the tank?
 
A vapor return line can benefit ANY carbureted car. Here's the general gist

ESPECIALLY on the newer cars with the pressure / vacuum caps and carbon can system, the tank is not "so freely vented" IE there are times that it can develop a slight vacuum, until the filler cap "pops off" and relieves this vacuum

A factory, front mount pump must "suck" against this vacuum, and this creates low pressure all the way from the tank to the pump, and LOWERS the boiling point of the fuel, adding to vapor lock problems

Even with an electric pump, once the fuel line gets up front, it can boil in the lines as it passes by, beside, and up past the exhaust, hot block, etc.

Then add "shutdown" this hot fuel can force past the needle / seat in the carb, and the carb itself may be too hot, boiling fuel over into the intake. The fuel building pressure and boiling in the fuel line just adds to the problem

Now lets add one of these filters up close to the carb, with a return back to the tank.

This boiling fuel will gather at the top of the filter, where it will be forced out the orifice and back to the tank.

AND on shutdown, this orifice very quickly RELIEVES pressure on the fuel line, and as fuel expands and boils up, instead of forcing through the needle/ seat and on into the (flooding) carb -- it now just dumps this pressure off, and routes the boiling fuel back to the tank.

My 67 HAD no extra lines to/ from the tank. I plumbed my CO2 bottle off my MIG into the line after draining the tank, and filled the tank with CO2, then brazed a 1/4" fitting into the front face of the tank.

For now, I'm running both a rear mount Holley red pump and a factory mechanical. The mechanical will eventually go away, and I figure on adding insulation to the fuel line

But as it sits I've:

Added the rear electric pump
Added the vapor return
Added a 3/8" or so thick fiber spacer under the carb

This car now only gives me trouble on the hottest days, and it's now minor, IE you may have to crank the engine 5-10 sec after a hot shutdown, and that is only occasionally.
 
that reg. won`t feed 2 carbs out of one side, my last set up wouldn`t feed one 800 holley out of 1 side, had to run each side of the reg. to each carb bowl.
those cute little filters will not feed a hot 600 horse engine, even w/ one on each bowl, don`t know about the return type tho.
hope this will save you some trouble. bob
 
I think you need to talk to the summit technical dept and see what parts will work best with a dual feed, return style regulator.
Also need to get a fuel pressure regulator and stay away from the liquid filled,ones as they give erratic readings when temp rises....this will drive you nuts thinking you have a problem and you will constantly,be adjusting your fuel pressure thinking your regulator is bad.

Look through some of the old posts in the fuel section as there is a link to a very informative site explaining all the questions you have about running a fuel system.
 
So what do yall think should I flip the Y block upside down and run the 2 lines into the regulator then 1 line out to both carbs?
 
I think i got this figured out.... Out of the sending unit Ill run a short peice to the canister filter, then link that to the fuel pump. From the fuel pump up to the holley filter then to the regulator then run both lines out of the regulator into my Y block. Then 1 line running from the Y block up to my fuel log that feeds both carbs. Does that sound about right? All lines and fittings are 3/8 NPT. But would i need a larger line out of the Y block to the fuel log?
 
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