How do I find members in my local area (FL Panhandle)?

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See if Bryan's Mobile Auto Repair is still around, 9502 Sweetgum Lane Navarre, FL 32566. They were dyed in the wool Mopar people years back. If you need phone numbers, PM me and I'll get them for you.
I keep striking out. I called Bryan’s and they no longer do repairs - only towing. I looked at them on Google maps and saw an old duster - same color and strip kit as mine - sitting behind their fence rusting away.
 
I’m going to continue my search for a shop that is reputable and has some history with older cars. Last resort will be to pull the engine myself and take it, perhaps, to the machine shop in Crestview that will rebuild the engine (but won’t pull the engine). There’s also the option to do nothing and to put up with the slow oil drip. The car runs good and the last compression check looked good.
 
so why not get a spare engine and rebuild it on the side while you enjoy the car until you are ready for a engine swap, i know a guy in cantoment fl. long time mopar racer and engine builder, if you want i can get in touch with him ,let me know,mark
 
Sounds like it's time to break out the wrenches to put in 2 new valve cover gaskets, a new oil pressure sending unit, and 1/2 pint of Lucas Engine Oil Treatment.

That will take care of 95% of your oil leaks.

4 hours of your time and less than $70.00 out of pocket.

I would personally wash down the engine first to get it clean. That's just me.....

Every problem is an opportunity to learn something new, and take care of your concerned issue at the same time.

Grease under the fingernails is not a bad thing.

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Take out the 2 low speed/idle enrichment screws, spray carb cleaner in the holes, blow out holes with compressed air.

Clean up the tips of the idle enrichment screws with carb cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad.

Reinstall the 2 screws at 1 1/2 turns up from bottom.

Fire up the engine and fine tune the 2 screws to get it to run nice and smooth. It will be much more responsive when you step on the gas.

Yes you can do this with carb still on the car.

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There you go, running nice and oil leaks stopped.

Enjoy your car....


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Sounds like it's time to break out the wrenches to put in 2 new valve cover gaskets, a new oil pressure sending unit, and 1/2 pint of Lucas Engine Oil Treatment.

That will take care of 95% of your oil leaks.

4 hours of your time and less than $70.00 out of pocket.

I would personally wash down the engine first to get it clean. That's just me.....

Every problem is an opportunity to learn something new, and take care of your concerned issue at the same time.

Grease under the fingernails is not a bad thing.

View attachment 1716197207


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The gasket change, etc would probably be a good idea before going further. I’ve been dealing with this leak for 10+ years and I know that I cleaned and inspected a long time ago. Memory serves me that the leak was originating on the back side of the engine between the block and the firewall where I can’t see much or reach anything. Maybe if I re-cleaned and dusted with baking soda I might be able to stick a scope back there and find the source for sure.

I’ve not tried the Lucas oil treatment.
 
Take out the 2 low speed/idle enrichment screws, spray carb cleaner in the holes, blow out holes with compressed air.

Clean up the tips of the idle enrichment screws with carb cleaner and a Scotch Brite pad.

Reinstall the 2 screws at 1 1/2 turns up from bottom.

Fire up the engine and fine tune the 2 screws to get it to run nice and smooth. It will be much more responsive when you step on the gas.

Yes you can do this with carb still on the car.

View attachment 1716197208

There you go, running nice and oil leaks stopped.

Enjoy your car....


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Interesting idea to clean thru the idle enrichment screws. The carb is so easy to unbolt and remove that I’ve always pulled it to clean it. I recently had two cases of rough idle and finding a dusty looking debris in the carb bowls. I decided that I was getting rust from the tank so I pulled and replaced the tank. Turned out that most of the tank was shiny and clean but there was rust on the inside top of the tank and rust debris on the floor of the tank. So far so good since that job but not many miles driven since then.
 
so why not get a spare engine and rebuild it on the side while you enjoy the car until you are ready for a engine swap, i know a guy in cantoment fl. long time mopar racer and engine builder, if you want i can get in touch with him ,let me know,mark
I would be interested in getting contact info for the guy in Cantonment FL. I just searched that area and came across a place called “Car City Engine & Machine” in Pensacola. Ever hears of them? I called and they seemed willing to pull, rebuild, and replace the engine for a reasonable price. He suggested that I might want to skip the full rebuild since compression is good and just go with a full gasket replacement. Seems like a shame not to rebuild (if needed at all) since I’d already be paying the labor to have the engine pulled, cleaned, etc.
 
ok his # is 850-982-2285 , his name is ed hillman, good guy ,be sure to tell him mark stillwagon gave you the number , mark
 
Will save you the frustration of doing a "Baby Powder" test at the back of the engine.

Just change the Oil Pressure Sending Unit, they leak like a sieve after 50 years running down over everything making a mess.

If you only knew such a simple fix would have saved you years and years of frustration.

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I can also vouch for Al's Rapid Transit as an Excellent Reseller.

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Famous Quote:
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink. No matter how "Sweet" the water is.....

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ok his # is 850-982-2285 , his name is ed hillman, good guy ,be sure to tell him mark stillwagon gave you the number , mark
Mark - I just talked with Ed Hillman - super nice guy. He’s not in a position to pull the engine but sounds like he’d be a great guy and loyal Mopar person to offer advice and, if necessary, to handle the engine work. I’ll continue to see what my options are - including someone local to pull and re-install my engine.
 
Will save you the frustration of doing a "Baby Powder" test at the back of the engine.

Just change the Oil Pressure Sending Unit, they leak like a sieve after 50 years running down over everything making a mess.

If you only knew such a simple fix would have saved you years and years of frustration.

View attachment 1716197316

I can also vouch for Al's Rapid Transit as an Excellent Reseller.

View attachment 1716197317


☆☆☆☆☆

Famous Quote:
You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make them drink. No matter how "Sweet" the water is.....

☆☆☆☆☆
I replaced the oil pressure sending unit within the last 6 months - but I’ll re-check it for a leak when I get my car back from paint shop.
 
so why not get a spare engine and rebuild it on the side while you enjoy the car until you are ready for a engine swap, i know a guy in cantoment fl. long time mopar racer and engine builder, if you want i can get in touch with him ,let me know,mark
Is his name Eddie? If so he built my 440. I’m in Crestview
 
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