how do i remove a tie rod on a 67 barracuda

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hi I have a tie rod that is stuck on the steering and lower ball joint I tried to get out with a hammer , did not move , any ideas .
 
Use a pickle fork. Most auto part stores rent those and other tools to work on suspension stuff. Take the nut loose a lot, but leave it on to control flying parts & tools.
 
Don't use a pickle fork unless you are sure you are going to replace the part. Will destroy the boot. There are pullers for ball joints/ tie rod ends that are "easier" on the boots If you have an Oh'Really's auto parts in your area check with them
 
you really just need two big *** hammers. use the bigger one as an anvil on on the far side of the part with the tapered hole, and with the other one, you take a good solid swing and hit it on the near side of the part with the tapered hole. It momentarily distorts the taper and the ball stud pops loose. With a little practice, it only takes one good, solid hit.
pickle forks ruin the seals and sometimes damage the ball stud socket. I try to avoid using them
 
If you use the 2 hammer idea...make sure that at least one of them is brass or lead. Hardened steel will sometimes shatter when struck strongly against each other. Ever break a chisel ? I also would be replacing the parts anyway. Especially if they are old. The parts are not expensive and can only do good things for you and your cars front suspension/steering performance.
 
Agreed that pickle forks damage tie rod end seals. I assumed the op would replace the tie rod end while it was loose. IMHO pickle forks are safer than pullers (which can go flying) for an inexperienced user.

Seems like I have a whole box of pullers & none of them fit my tie rod ends good enough to work. Or maybe I am just In the slow reading group....
 
MoparLeo said:
If you use the 2 hammer idea...make sure that at least one of them is brass or lead. Hardened steel will sometimes shatter when struck strongly against each other. Ever break a chisel ? I also would be replacing the parts anyway. Especially if they are old. The parts are not expensive and can only do good things for you and your cars front suspension/steering performance.
Click to expand...
the idea isn't to smack two hardened hammer faces into each other. maybe I wasnt clear enough. the bigger hammer is just to back-up and absorb the blow to the stubborn (internal tapered)part that is being struck on the other side. Kinda like a sandwich. If you don't back it up with something the part might move around on you, and avoid the hammer strike, giving it just a glancing blow.
Confidentially, I've gotten away with just one hammer, but you have to optimize the orientation of the part, so you can get a real good swing of the hammer, and not hold the part where it will move away from the strike. Once you do a few, you'll see what I mean.
 
I'm quick to just whack hell out of the side of the tapered bore too. Doesn't work at ball joints but a couple good hard whacks at the smaller tie rod fitment and stud pops loose. I've heard the warning, "You could crack the casting like that". Hasn't happened yet.
The fifty year old Chrysler assembly would be more stubborn than the 20 year old Accord or Camry assembly.
 
Using "two hammers" also works better with a dead blow. On a sad note, my "good" dead blow, which is plastic exterior (Look up stanley dead blow failures) is now falling apart on it's own,
 
You have got to account for skill levels when doing this kind of work. An old friend had this definition:

Amateur - Can do many repairs with with only minor damage to parts and vehicles and fairly minimal injuries.

Experienced - Can do most any repair and has inflicted major damage on parts or vehicle. Multiple injuries, many requiring emergency room visits or hospitalization.

Professional - Same as Experienced except still has all fingers, toes, and eyes and work clothes cover all major scars.
 
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