How do I seal my windshield on 67 Barracuda?

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cudajim

cudajim

cudajim
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I have a 67 notchback Barracuda and a new windshield with the old gasket. The windshield is just set in there at the moment but I need to seal it and don't know what to use. I had the gasket out and cleaned it pretty good with laquer thinner so it's usable. I know there's some type of special windshield black snot but not the 3M stuff. Also, exactly where should I use sealant, between the gasket and body or between the gasket and windshield or both?

I do have original style lock strips which will go in last. Any windshield guru's out there?
 
Getting closer to putting the front and rear windshield in Jake's 65 and have the same question....
 
Not close to an expert, but to seal a leak in an existing gasket, I first try "flowable silicone" in a small tube and "butyl rubber caulk" in a caulk gun. I recall the later comes in black. I think butyl rubber is the stuff used to attach windshields in modern cars.

When installing a windshield, I suspect you could only caulk the inner surface since one usually puts a rope around the perimeter and pulls that outward to flip the gasket lip over the glass. Anything you pre-filled in there would make a mess.
 
The glass people used Butyl when installing the front and rear glass of my 68 Cuda.
 
Butyl. Only thing that works on old cars; came with butyl. If you can't find it, go to local auto glass place. new cars use different sealer, won't work.
 
So reading between the lines in all the responses, the gasket gets sealer to the body? And/or does it get sealer to the glass as well?
 
The 67 glasses I have removed had the black sealnt at gasket to body and a samll amount of greyish bedding and glazing compound ( like used in houses wooden window panes ) between gasket and glass.
Regardless what you found in the removal or what you use, you do need something there. Water standing at the raw edge of the glass is what causes it to seperate and/or turn milky colored.
 
Thanks for the responses. I'll have to look up "butyl rubber caulk" to see where I can find it locally. I expect I'll make a big mess of things but I'll also learn something in the process.
 
Me too cudajim.... I was going to ask the same question in a couple of weeks... Thanks for beating me to it, I'm learning right along with you.....
 
BillGrissom said:
Not close to an expert, but to seal a leak in an existing gasket, I first try "flowable silicone" in a small tube and "butyl rubber caulk" in a caulk gun. I recall the later comes in black.
x's 2
On an already installed window the "flowable silicone" does a nice job of getting into the cracks and sealing them. I do all my older cars.
Click to expand...
 
Ok, I tripped on your thread, I'll give the best advice for I installed glass for 19-20 years, I may be able to help.. If your plans to wash your car, get caught in the rain, then you will need to seal it.. A lot of people invest so much money they will never get it wet...that being said, most chrysler windshields are lock strip type, normally the windshield will be installed by rope in,or slowly work the windshield into the gasket already attached to the body..after you have installed the windshield the bet way to seal it is by liquid butyl..You want to use a 3m liquid butyl caulk tube.. Start with masking the body next to the gasket with easy removal tape to prevent mess..Make sure you have a non damaging solvent like automotive urethane remover for clean up...Once you lay your tape down, you are ready to seal your windshield.. You want room temperature liquid butyl caulk so it flows easier and not difficult to push out of caulk gun..Also a hook tool of some kind or a plastic paddle preferred to protect body.. Cut the end of caulk tube to a 3/16 or 1/4 inch diameter hole.. Start from top center pull the gasket back with your left hand using your hook tool or plastic paddle and slowly caulk with your right..just enough to allow liquid to flow and settle into gap. Do not fill it up or will make a huge mess when you place the locking strip in..only go 3/4 way down your A pillar, allowing room so liquid will gravity flow down to the lower corner..Please avoid using any silicone between gasket and body..silicone promotes rust and in a few years will see rot..You can use silicone between glass and gasket, that's OK.. Hope I was able to help you along..liquid butyl will never get hard so you can remove your windshield again..Also check before removal to make sure if both parts are still available, sometimes glass can be cheaper than a gasket or visa versa you may have to sacrifice one part to save another..free advise good luck and have fun...Sean
 
Yeap, butyl. The new cars glass is structural part of the body/roll-over, different sealer-more like glue. Old mopars- butyl.
 
I love to see and hear when people do their own work...anymore glass questions ill try to assist best I can..Sean
 
Seansmopar said:
Ok, I tripped on your thread, I'll give the best advice for I installed glass for 19-20 years, I may be able to help.. If your plans to wash your car, get caught in the rain, then you will need to seal it.. A lot of people invest so much money they will never get it wet...that being said, most chrysler windshields are lock strip type, normally the windshield will be installed by rope in,or slowly work the windshield into the gasket already attached to the body..after you have installed the windshield the bet way to seal it is by liquid butyl..You want to use a 3m liquid butyl caulk tube.. Start with masking the body next to the gasket with easy removal tape to prevent mess..Make sure you have a non damaging solvent like automotive urethane remover for clean up...Once you lay your tape down, you are ready to seal your windshield.. You want room temperature liquid butyl caulk so it flows easier and not difficult to push out of caulk gun..Also a hook tool of some kind or a plastic paddle preferred to protect body.. Cut the end of caulk tube to a 3/16 or 1/4 inch diameter hole.. Start from top center pull the gasket back with your left hand using your hook tool or plastic paddle and slowly caulk with your right..just enough to allow liquid to flow and settle into gap. Do not fill it up or will make a huge mess when you place the locking strip in..only go 3/4 way down your A pillar, allowing room so liquid will gravity flow down to the lower corner..Please avoid using any silicone between gasket and body..silicone promotes rust and in a few years will see rot..You can use silicone between glass and gasket, that's OK.. Hope I was able to help you along..liquid butyl will never get hard so you can remove your windshield again..Also check before removal to make sure if both parts are still available, sometimes glass can be cheaper than a gasket or visa versa you may have to sacrifice one part to save another..free advise good luck and have fun...Sean
Click to expand...

Alright, so now I'm confused. When and where do I seal between the gasket and the body. I assume I use black butyl for that and the clear stuff for the windshield itself. A youtube video would be very helpful.
 
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