How do I stop vapor lock?

-

70DusterBob

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2016
Messages
781
Reaction score
148
Location
Texas
Hey,

I've got a 360 in my Duster. Carbureted, and the fuel filter has nothing in it when I shut it off when the engine is warm. There is very little in it when it is running too. Is there a type of filter that won't vapor lock out there? This one is clear plastic so I can see there is nothing in it when I shut it off but a dab in the bottom corner. If not, is there a location to place it to prevent vapor lock?

Thanks
 
Real vapor lock is actually pretty rare, and will cause the engine to run poorly, stall and even not restart. You should verify that's the issue first and not simply a bad supply of fuel from a bad pump, trash in the tank or something similar.
 
^^Several causes^^

'70 was the first year SOME cars had the evap fuel tank emissions controls. You need to determine if yours has it. Read through the emissions and fuel section of the 70 manual. Determine if the tank is actually getting vented (plugged vent?) You can remove the cap to do so

Alcoholized fuel lately, worsens fuel boil problems

Best thing I did for mine (before going to EFI) was to build a vapor return system using a Wix filter with built in orifice, adding a thick carb insulator, and using a rear mount electric pump

Wix 33040 (5/16) and 33041 {3/8}

31KUuv21WdL._SY300_.jpg


Problems are worsened by a poor fuel pump, (bad valves) by an overheating engine, and of course hot weather.
 
As others have noted, with today's fuel the only good solution is an electric pump and return style fuel filter. Or efi.

You can try moving the filter to a cooler place, insulating the fuel lines, etc, but it will only make a marginal difference when compared to the other solutions, and won't help much on hot days.
 
FWIW, The clear filters will not fill completely up with fuel when the motor is running. Half full is all I've ever observed when running, and I never had any issues with fuel starvation. Primary symptom of vapor lock is hard starting after the car has set hot for a few minutes. Are you having this problem?
 
My car had the same issues except the part about reference to temperature. The problem I found was the short hose connecting the fuel sender tube to the fuel line. It was cracked nearly I two. I could not believe it ran for the test drive or loaded on the trailer when I bought it.
Yote
 
FWIW, The clear filters will not fill completely up with fuel when the motor is running. Half full is all I've ever observed when running, and I never had any issues with fuel starvation. Primary symptom of vapor lock is hard starting after the car has set hot for a few minutes. Are you having this problem?

It won't start the first time I crank it when hot. Usually the second time, but I have to crank it. When it isn't "running temperature" hot or outside hot, it will start on first spark.
 
The car was running good, then like it was starving for fuel again, when warm, it would run prob 20 miles without a prob, then just like die, and start again a second or two later. I pulled into a gas station, pulled the fuel line at the pump, delivery side, and a blast of gaseous air came gushing out! Then it dribbled fuel. I figured that was the vapor lock "unlocking".

So I put it back together, drove it, in the cool of the evening, 40 more miles with no hick-ups.

I have to check to see if there is a return line on my sending unit that is non-operational. The car ran great for years just the way it is, but I seldom drove it over long periods like I have been lately. I figure it's getting hotter than it has before, even though I have a 160 thermostat in it. And it's not even summer!! Yikes!

I hope there is a return line I can hook up. But, what kind of return line do you use? Like put a rubber 1/4" fuel line coming from the small port on the filter to the port on the sending unit with a 1/4" steel line between them?

Thanks, that will probably solve the issue. If not, I'll let you know.
 
T
I hope there is a return line I can hook up. But, what kind of return line do you use? Like put a rubber 1/4" fuel line coming from the small port on the filter to the port on the sending unit with a 1/4" steel line between them?

Thanks, that will probably solve the issue. If not, I'll let you know.

There IS NO return line. You have to add one, re rework the vent system Read my earlier post. Either you have an old style (69/ earlier) vent up in the filler tube, or you have an evap control system with the line going up to the front. READ THE shop manual

If you don't have the evap system, you will have to add a line to the front

If you DO have the evap system, you will either have to convert the vent to the old 69 style, or else add a second line, because the line up to the front IS the tank vent on the cars with evap controls.

As I said earlier, SEVENTY is the split year. Normally, CA state cars got evap controls, 49 states got the "69 style" vent

The other things you can try is to examine the fuel tube routing up by the engine / exhaust. Maybe someone changed the routing. Maybe you have headers "made it worse". Try building a heat shield / glass insulation.....you can buy Summit, etc

Consider installing a rear mount pump.

IT ALSO might be "other problems" YOU NEED to check it out

Is the tank vent plugged? Try removing the cap

Is the tank pickup sock plugged? Supply hose from tank to tube collapsing, restriction in the supply tube?

BAD fuel pump? Again, the service manual has procedures to check out the pump
 
...pulled the fuel line at the pump, delivery side, and a blast of gaseous air came gushing out! Then it dribbled fuel...

Seen this before and it was related to an improper gas cap. What kind of cap are you running now? OEM? Parts store replacement?
 
True vapor lock usually comes from heat soak conditions. Hot day you run the car hard then stop for 20-45 minutes. You come back out car starts fine and you go about a block and the car stalls and won't restart. Fuel in the pump vaporizes from the heat soak so the pump won't pump fuel. It starts and runs on the fuel remaining in the fuel bowls.

Check the fuel cap, filter and sender sock. Good Luck.
 
I've been looking for this style filter for a while. My 3/8 sending unit has a 2nd fitting that I can run the return line to. Can I use it as a return?


^^Several causes^^

'70 was the first year SOME cars had the evap fuel tank emissions controls. You need to determine if yours has it. Read through the emissions and fuel section of the 70 manual. Determine if the tank is actually getting vented (plugged vent?) You can remove the cap to do so

Alcoholized fuel lately, worsens fuel boil problems

Best thing I did for mine (before going to EFI) was to build a vapor return system using a Wix filter with built in orifice, adding a thick carb insulator, and using a rear mount electric pump

Wix 33040 (5/16) and 33041 {3/8}

31KUuv21WdL._SY300_.jpg


Problems are worsened by a poor fuel pump, (bad valves) by an overheating engine, and of course hot weather.
 
Hey,

I've got a 360 in my Duster. Carbureted, and the fuel filter has nothing in it when I shut it off when the engine is warm. There is very little in it when it is running too. Is there a type of filter that won't vapor lock out there? This one is clear plastic so I can see there is nothing in it when I shut it off but a dab in the bottom corner. If not, is there a location to place it to prevent vapor lock?

Thanks

Electric fuel pump............
 
I've been looking for this style filter for a while. My 3/8 sending unit has a 2nd fitting that I can run the return line to. Can I use it as a return?

Parts stores should have these in stock or easily get them. If they don't stock or deal with Wix they can interchange that number. There are at least three different ones. 33040 is 5/16, 33041 is 3/8, both with 1/4" return fitting with an orifice. There's a third I don't have the part no. On those the return comes out the side of the filter.

I would say "yes" you could use the sender port, you'll have to run a second tube. I would run either 5/16 or 3/8 tube in case you upgrade the system / HP later.
 
The car was running good, then like it was starving for fuel again, when warm, it would run prob 20 miles without a prob, then just like die, and start again a second or two later. I pulled into a gas station, pulled the fuel line at the pump, delivery side, and a blast of gaseous air came gushing out! Then it dribbled fuel. I figured that was the vapor lock "unlocking".

So I put it back together, drove it, in the cool of the evening, 40 more miles with no hick-ups.

I have to check to see if there is a return line on my sending unit that is non-operational. The car ran great for years just the way it is, but I seldom drove it over long periods like I have been lately. I figure it's getting hotter than it has before, even though I have a 160 thermostat in it. And it's not even summer!! Yikes!

I hope there is a return line I can hook up. But, what kind of return line do you use? Like put a rubber 1/4" fuel line coming from the small port on the filter to the port on the sending unit with a 1/4" steel line between them?

Thanks, that will probably solve the issue. If not, I'll let you know.

Let's think about this; You are saying there is pressurized air between the pump and the carb. How did it get there? This is a three-part diagnostic problem.
1)The pump sucked it up. And 2), the float valve kept it in there.And 3),It's not actually air but gas in vapor form,and it cooked in that steel line, and was trapped there.
It was pressurized. That means the float valve had to be closed.So either the floatbowl was full of fuel, or the valve was stuck closed. There are two ways for this to happen; A) air entered into the line somewhere, or B)the air wasn't actually air, but gaseous fuel.
As to A);there are several places for this to occur. There are two rubber jumpers. There is the hard-line itself. And then there is the in-tank pick-up, which would have to be submerged in fuel.
As to B);when the fuel changes pressure, it tends to dissociate and form pockets of gas in vapor form.This can happen anytime fuel is pulled through a restriction. That's how a carb works. But it's not supposed to happen in the hard line. Unless it is restricted by rust. The vaporous gas will go back into a liquid state, under pressure, so after it exits the fuel pump, it should again be liquid.
Unless it is cooking in the line.
Winter fuel is easier to cook than summer gas.Winter fuel wants to be in vapor form. So check the temp of that steel line from the pump to the carb.If its running at rad temp, thats a problem. You may need to insulate the pipe.
If it happens again, check for liquid fuel at the supply side of the pump. Air here means the pump sucked it up.
But really, that pressurized "air", should not have been trapped in there, as the liquid in the bowl got burned up, the float should have dropped, and let it pass through the valve and out the bowl vent. About the only scenario I could come up with, is that the engine was running properly when shut off, and that the fuel cooked in the line, before you got a chance to remove the bottom of the line, or it flashed to vapor, the second you released the pressure.
 
I think it's funny how many people think having air in a fuel filter means something is wrong.
 
old school trick is to put wooden clothes pins on the fuel line as close to the tank as possible. use a few of them, see if it works. the old timers used to swear by this method but i have not seen anyone try it in this milenia. lol
 
I think it's funny how many people think having air in a fuel filter means something is wrong.

It doesn't, but hard hot-starting or sputtering and quitting on the side of the road is a problem. If the filter is completely empty, it might maybe could possibly be a hint at why the car died. Finding nothing but vapor behind the fuel pump is another hint.

Fact is, gasoline today isn't the same as it was when these cars were new and people's expectations of cars is VASTLY different today too. Not to mention that so few of these cars are as-equipped the day they left the show room! Headers, open element air cleaners, different gears, torque converters, etc.. they all have an effect.

The quick fix is to shield the incoming fuel from heat - this is a marginal one.
The next quickest is an electric fuel pump that dead-heads at the carb.
Running a return is a great idea, but requires some fab work that if someone needs to ask 'how' probably is beyond their abilities.

Repurposing the vent line as a return and then brazing or soldering a vent onto the sending unit (once removed from the tank!) with a roll-over valve attached and positioned as high as the filler neck is simple, but requires tools that not everyone has or can use. An electric pump requires a couple wires, screwdriver, some hose, and a relay - far easier for the typical shadetree type.
 
Hey,

I've got a 360 in my Duster. Carburated, and the fuel filter has nothing in it when I shut it off when the engine is warm. There is very little in it when it is running too. Is there a type of filter that won't vapor lock out there? This one is clear plastic so I can see there is nothing in it when I shut it off but a dab in the bottom corner. If not, is there a location to place it to prevent vapor lock?

Thanks

???Manifold, Carb, Exhaust, Cam, info ????
 
Funny how nobody questions where the vapor in the filter came from. It flows backward from the carb bowl where fuel is percolating . What did the factory engineers do ? 2 changes.... thicker spacer underneath the carb. Filter relocated to a vertical position in front of the water pump and where the fan forced air can hit it.
These 2 changes and verifying the bowl vent is open at idle cured my 67.
 
The OP's fuel pump is also suspect. If the pump's check valves are good, then it should hold pressure against the carb's needle valve, for 20-30 minutes and prevent any boiling in between. If the fuel vaporized in the line, then the pressure in the line from pump to carb dropped for some reason: leaky needle and seat, fuel boiling out in the carb and thus opening the needle and seat, or leaky fuel pump check valves.
 
Oh believe me, being and Edelbrock owner I know about todays fuel issue's and engine heat.
Shielding/rerouting the fuel lines and running an electric pump helped, that and blocking off crossovers.
I was just commenting on how people think a fuel filter is always going to be full of gas or there is a problem.
One problem I see is that even though a return gets cooler fuel closer to the carb it doesn't replace the hot fuel already in it. (like on a hot startup)


It doesn't, but hard hot-starting or sputtering and quitting on the side of the road is a problem. If the filter is completely empty, it might maybe could possibly be a hint at why the car died. Finding nothing but vapor behind the fuel pump is another hint.

Fact is, gasoline today isn't the same as it was when these cars were new and people's expectations of cars is VASTLY different today too. Not to mention that so few of these cars are as-equipped the day they left the show room! Headers, open element air cleaners, different gears, torque converters, etc.. they all have an effect.

The quick fix is to shield the incoming fuel from heat - this is a marginal one.
The next quickest is an electric fuel pump that dead-heads at the carb.
Running a return is a great idea, but requires some fab work that if someone needs to ask 'how' probably is beyond their abilities.

Repurposing the vent line as a return and then brazing or soldering a vent onto the sending unit (once removed from the tank!) with a roll-over valve attached and positioned as high as the filler neck is simple, but requires tools that not everyone has or can use. An electric pump requires a couple wires, screwdriver, some hose, and a relay - far easier for the typical shadetree type.
 
-
Back
Top