How do you do burnouts with a stick?

-
K

Kevin Jonker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2005
Messages
498
Reaction score
36
Location
Yucca Valley, Ca
I hopefully will be getting some E.T. street radials soon and don't have a linelock yet. How do you get a burnout done safely without the line lock? What gear to start in with a 4speed? Thanks for the help. Kevin
 
I'd suggest backing off the rear drum brake adjustment a bit so the fronts grab harder and stand on the brakes after you dump the clutch. Use 2nd. gear. This will give you more wheel speed and tax the engine less by keeping the revs out of the stratosphere...
 
FASTBACK340 said:
I'd suggest backing off the rear drum brake adjustment a bit so the fronts grab harder and stand on the brakes after you dump the clutch. Use 2nd. gear. This will give you more wheel speed and tax the engine less by keeping the revs out of the stratosphere...
Click to expand...

I would have to agree :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the input. It just seems like there isn't much room around the burnout area, if the car were to get sideways off the initial dumping of the clutch. I may just be to anal. I have M/T Indy Profile S/S's on it and when I tried get the tires to spin in the water it just moved out of the water. Now I didn't try dumping the clutch but feathering it, which may have been my downfall. I have used soft compound tires before and they were good enough without heating them up. But now have alot more power and steep gears.
 
If you install a linelock with the switch in/on your shifter handle, you won't have to back off your rear brakes (definately need them on the other end).

Also, with the control at your finger tips, it's a lot easier to steer the beast when it grabs. You can let off the switch when it starts to push you in the wrong direction. If you have much money tied up in your ride, this would be what I'd install next.
 
an old racer trick i've heard about was adjust the back brakes with the E-brake set. when you do the burnout only the fronts will grab. pull up to the line and set the E-brake and at the end you have all four brakes to stop. who needs a E-brake on a race car anyway. hope this helps and best of all it's free!
 
jamesmcclain340 said:
an old racer trick i've heard about was adjust the back brakes with the E-brake set. when you do the burnout only the fronts will grab. pull up to the line and set the E-brake and at the end you have all four brakes to stop. who needs a E-brake on a race car anyway. hope this helps and best of all it's free!
Click to expand...

Maybe this works for a front wheel drive or whatever, (still not sure I know what the heck your trying to say) but the e-brake in our darts applys the rear brakes, and "setting the e-brake" is not going to allow you to do a burn out, BECAUSE the rear brakes are now applied and your fronts are not. The rear wheels are the ones that need to turn freely for the burnout and can't if you apply the e-brake, or worse yet you'll just wear out the shoes and drums even quicker (maybe the clutch also). Line lock is the only way to fly for burnouts and manual transmissions (and automatics to for that matter), and still be able to have the full complete braking power of all four wheels. Line locks are also very very cheap. You can install a line lock yourself for well under a hundred bucks.
 
you apply the e-brake and adjust the brakes as normal. when you apply the brakes as normal they are severly under adjusted and wont hold. you pull the e-brake to take up the slack in the shoes and the cylinders will apply the brakes.(that is the way it was explained to me, personally i just robbed a line lock off an old forklift at work and did it for free)
 
Adjust all brakes properly. (you might need them) Go to Jegs or Summit
and buy a line lock set up. (Hurst has made them for years.) It will lock the front wheels hydraulically and let the rear wheels spin free during your burnout. At the other end of the track (when you need your brakes the most) they will operate normally and stop you safely! Mike
 
hi, something to consider about street treaded tires in a water box! they retain water in the grooves, when you pull out and stage up, the water runs down collects under the tire ,which will cause you to spin! the best bet is to
drive around the water box and do two dry hops. this will heat up the tire and clean it off. plus you will not need a line lock for this type of action.
 
put a tack in the rear line of the master cylinder...

not a good idea to do, but its kinda cool to know
 
The dart gts project I just bought has kelsey hayes disc's in front and no back brakes at all! I will be changing that of course, but wow, talk about your brakestands...
 
:sign6: :wack: :sign6: :wack: :sign6: :wack: :sign6: :wack: :sign6:

littleman66 said:
put a tack in the rear line of the master cylinder...

not a good idea to do, but its kinda cool to know
Click to expand...
 
I used to bracket race a 340 Dart 4-speed and no question the Line Lock was the best bet for easy burnouts with a stick. I started in second and would shift to third. Ron
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top