How do you prime a new engine?

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Mick Semantel

Mick Semantel

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How do you guys prime new/re-built engines? Is there a special way to get oil in all the noks and cranies? Thanks for the help fellas
 
You buy a priming tool. For a small block Mopar it is a hex shaft which fits into the oil pump with the distributor and intermediate shaft removed. For obvious reasons, you want to prime before you glue the intake down. If you made sure nothing went together dry when you assembled the engine you should be fine. The factory makes engines all day long and doesn't prime any of them.

Torco sells their MPZ Assembly Lube in a spray can. This stuff is wonderfull; its sticky, it clings and is more slippery than buttered whale snot. This stuff sticks to metal so well, it takes 0000 steel wool soaked in lacquer thinner to remove it. Basically this is spray cam lube (as an aside, I have installed more than a couple cams using moly-EP wheel bearing grease with no problems). Buy some, it will become one of your most reached for cans of spray goo.

Long story short, as long as you oiled/greased everything as you assembled the engine, you should be fine.
 
Wow, thanks Chief. I had someone build the engine for me. I'll try with the shaft priming. My dad was scolding me because mopar was *** backwords to Ford. Or so he says...
 
Tell your dad that his ford is a F#@$ over rebuilt Dodge so his is backwards not yours, LOL
 
Mick Semantel said:
Wow, thanks Chief. I had someone build the engine for me. I'll try with the shaft priming.
Click to expand...

Mick, when you prime make sure you're turning the shaft in the same direction that the distributor would turn. Rotate the engine while you prime stopping at 0, 90, 180, and 270 degrees. This is to align the oil holes. Turn it over twice. Sometimes it's easier to have a friend hold the drill while you rotate. Keep an eye on your oil pressure too. Do you have a gauge?

Good luck and I hope everything turns out well for you. :thumbup:
 
Thank you for the response. Yes I do have a gauge. What should I see on the guage when priming?
 
Normal oil pressure.

If you are running the pump at 1000 rpm, you are making the same oil pressure as if the engine were turning 2000 rpm. This should be plenty to open the bypass.
 
rotate the crank about 35-90 degrees to get oil to each cylinder head. do this while someone is priming itso oil is flowing in the crankshaft oiling holes.

FORD- F#$%ed on race day.................

ford had to put their #1 cylinder on the pass side and number everything different.
 
C130 Chief said:
You buy a priming tool. For a small block Mopar it is a hex shaft which fits into the oil pump with the distributor and intermediate shaft removed. For obvious reasons, you want to prime before you glue the intake down. If you made sure nothing went together dry when you assembled the engine you should be fine. The factory makes engines all day long and doesn't prime any of them.

Torco sells their MPZ Assembly Lube in a spray can. This stuff is wonderfull; its sticky, it clings and is more slippery than buttered whale snot. This stuff sticks to metal so well, it takes 0000 steel wool soaked in lacquer thinner to remove it. Basically this is spray cam lube (as an aside, I have installed more than a couple cams using moly-EP wheel bearing grease with no problems). Buy some, it will become one of your most reached for cans of spray goo.

Long story short, as long as you oiled/greased everything as you assembled the engine, you should be fine.
Click to expand...

"Buttered Whale Snot" Never tried it, Is it the same as buttered Ostyers? If so That stuff is slick
 
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