How do you remove wires from fire wall junction correctly?

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scottylack

scottylack

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just wondering how you release the wires without damaging anything??? I heard a screwdriver...and if so, how?
 

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Insert a small, thin screwdriver (like a jewelers screwdriver) in on the flat side if the connector (same direction direction as the arrow in my pic) and depress the tang. Once depressed far enough, it will slide out from the wire side.
 

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so, that would be inserting small screwdriver from ENGINE BAY SIDE of the block???
 
Push in on the metal connector - the inside where it mates to the other wiring harness at the firewall.
 
good luck with that id hit my thunmb with a hammer first it will be less painfull and

and you"ll be real cautios then just go at it like some woman you want slo and finess when you find out its just another peice pay to get what you want
 
You can use a small pick to run in and release the lock tab.

Sometimes pushing the connector into the block makes things easier. Just be careful and not to rough with it.

They do make a specific release tool for most of the connectors, however, you can hillbilly engineer around most of them.
 
Great. It is easy once you learn the trick. For others, push in on the wire on the cabin side while you slide a thin tool from the engine side to push down the tab. A thin screw driver can work, but the beveled tip makes it harder. The first time I used a thin hand saw from the 99 Cent Store that was the proper width and bent the tip down so it better worked against the tab. I later bought the proper tool (cheap) when I bought a bunch of "56 terminals". It works slightly better.

The photo in post #2 shows the trick to release the male terminals on the engine side connectors. Needle nose pliers work, but I found a better plier tool with grooves (sort of like hog-ring pliers).
 
scottylack,
I see you have a 1964 car. Take particular care to inspect the 2 thick wires that carry the ALT and BATT currents. If their housing spots show signs of melting plastic, many people drill thru and install a continuous wire. The 1963 and 1965 bulkheads had separate thick "bus bars" to pass those currents. Our 1964's were neglected, which is why I just bought a 65 bulkhead to upgrade mine (must cut opening 1/4" more). 1966+ were like 1964 (w/ 3rd wiper connector), so they also have the ubiquitous "bulkhead melt" problem.
 
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