how does a 318 engine run if timing is off ?

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RustyRatRod said:
He doesn't have the right plugs so the proper thing to do is pitch them in the trash can.
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And I sure hope his engine builder didn't choose those wrong ones. If he did he must be a Chevy guy!
 
Ok, had my buddy come over again, spent about 2 hours, we redid the solid steel line from the fuel pump to carb. I was so sure that the kink in the steel line, that my local shop installed was going to be the problem. Replaced with fuel line hose, local Auto Zone did not have any correct size steel line, cut the old steel line below the kink, ran fuel hose, started car, a little better, the car did run a little longer before it started to run rough , even though it was running rough the car did stay running but like it had a number of misses so it would not idle smooth. Now before we started the car, I took out the incorrect Champion plugs, cleaned up the NGK plugs I had in since I had the engine running, they still had some carbon up in the cone area [insulator area], regap to .35, not sure if the fact that there is some minor carbon around the insulator area that could effect the running of the engine , may order new NGK plugs.

Ran out of time, we 100% sure we now do not have a fuel problem.[ fuel line repaired, using a known good carb.] next round we are going to pull the plugs do a compression test to all cylinders, to see what we have, all plugs look the same equal burn to them, [no deposits ] , also going to ohm out the spark plug wires to see if we have any bad ones, even though they are all new, inc. the coil to distributor cap wire. Pertronix is all new, however the Ignitor II that I have also controls the dwell, I am not sure if that is adding to the problem I have. [ with my old Pro Cam electronic distributor, when the engine would run I wanted to check timing, as I pull off the vac. line the distributor, the engine shut off, seemed very sensitive to that], after that I could not/had hard time to restart the engine which is where I am at , at this time.
 
Ok, my friend was not able to come over, so before he left, he told me to pull the dist. cap and ohm the wires, and pull out the plugs so the next time he comes over we can do a compression test. So the next day I pulled the cap, checked the spark plug wires from the inside of the cap to the spark plug boot area, found 3 wires that had no readings, I was 100 % sure this was the problem since the last time we had the car running, my friend told me he thought it a few misses, so with 3 bad wires [ which was just poor connections at the dist. cap ends] , I reinstalled the cap and wires ran out of time so the next day I pulled the plugs to make sure they where as clean as possible till I could get some new MGK units. Anyway car fired wright up, BUT ran worse then ever!!!!, tried with jumper wire from + on coil to battery + no change.

So today I was able to track down some NGK plugs, checked the gap[.035], installed them , used jumper wire from coil to battery, I thought the car was going to blow up, it ran the worst it has ever!! pulled the plugs, they only a few seconds of run time on them, number 8 was coated with gas, some other plugs looked like they did not even fire, I have been chasing down the problem since March, I have replaced the dist. with a Pertronix unit with matching coil, replaced the Ignitor II module in the dist. BUT I REALLY FEEL THAT IT IS JUST A PIEICE OF JUNK!! seems like some times it is firing most cylinders and other times hardly any. All connections, triple checked,, all voltages are correct. all grounds are good.

After we do a compression test and make sure there is no issue in that area, I will remove this so called dist.

Has any one had good luck with a Duralast Gold Dist. from Auto Zone?, I will need to rewire the ignition system, since I do not have a resistor block, or module, or any plugs . I will need to get a correct coil , and control unit. wiring plugs to hook every thing up.
 
22dog22 said:
Ok, my friend was not able to come over, so before he left, he told me to pull the dist. cap and ohm the wires, and pull out the plugs so the next time he comes over we can do a compression test. So the next day I pulled the cap, checked the spark plug wires from the inside of the cap to the spark plug boot area, found 3 wires that had no readings, I was 100 % sure this was the problem since the last time we had the car running, my friend told me he thought it a few misses, so with 3 bad wires [ which was just poor connections at the dist. cap ends] , I reinstalled the cap and wires ran out of time so the next day I pulled the plugs to make sure they where as clean as possible till I could get some new MGK units. Anyway car fired wright up, BUT ran worse then ever!!!!, tried with jumper wire from + on coil to battery + no change.

So today I was able to track down some NGK plugs, checked the gap[.035], installed them , used jumper wire from coil to battery, I thought the car was going to blow up, it ran the worst it has ever!! pulled the plugs, they only a few seconds of run time on them, number 8 was coated with gas, some other plugs looked like they did not even fire, I have been chasing down the problem since March, I have replaced the dist. with a Pertronix unit with matching coil, replaced the Ignitor II module in the dist. BUT I REALLY FEEL THAT IT IS JUST A PIEICE OF JUNK!! seems like some times it is firing most cylinders and other times hardly any. All connections, triple checked,, all voltages are correct. all grounds are good.

After we do a compression test and make sure there is no issue in that area, I will remove this so called dist.

Has any one had good luck with a Duralast Gold Dist. from Auto Zone?, I will need to rewire the ignition system, since I do not have a resistor block, or module, or any plugs . I will need to get a correct coil , and control unit. wiring plugs to hook every thing up.
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I had 2 bad ones from Rock then another 2 bad from Amazon. 5th one was finally good from Amazon, Cardone brand. UCA bushings are the same story
 
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