How far does 67 steering column fit into coupler?

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LovetheA's

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I'm going to be taking apart my 67 Dart manual floor shifted lower steering column so I can pull the whole column out of the car to repaint it. I've looked at other posts and the schematics on the connection between the lower end of the steering column and the steering coupler. I still have some questions. After I unscrew the two bolts in the bottom of the steering tube the plastic insert with metal bearing comes out. I then knock the roll pint out holding the coupler to the lower shaft. Then pop off the coupler top clip which holds the gasket on. Then the coupler and steering column should separate. Do I have this right? Also when I clean replace and reassemble the steering and column how far should the shaft coming out of lower steering column sit in the coupler? How do I avoid any up and down play in the assembly when put back together. In other words I don't want the shaft and column to be able to move up and down when I pull on steering wheel correct? If I'm missing anything please explain.

Carl
 
sorry cant help Carl, but Im gonna follow along here. I have a 67 floor shift as well and want to rebuild it. Post pics and part #'s if you can. Thanks Steve
 
I may be confused The coupler - to steering box depth is controlled by a notch in the shaft "past which" the roll pin fits, thus locating the coupler on the box The coupler to column has two "shoes" in there with a certain amount of play. The only thing holding it together at all is the cheap tin top plate which IS A PROBLEM if it gets damaged. It's simply sits on top of the coupling with some little ears crimped over So you do NOT want to "pull" on the column to get the coupler off the box. Rather, insert an open end wrench, etc, and pry a bit between the box and the coupler body. Usually, they come off "fairly" easily You want to mark the column / coupler so you do not get it assembled 1/2 turn off. This results in the wheel being upside down with front tires straight ahead
 
Just push (Drive) the pin out on the coupler then remove the 3 bolts to firewall and the 3 nuts to dash support and you can lower down and pry the coupler loose to remove the whole assembly .

Being carefull not to colapse the shaft during the process .
 
I recently had to reset the tin top cover that holds gasket on the coupler. I had someone do some other work on the car and didn't secure it properly. I've since ordered a new top cover and rubber gasket. I'll put them back on carefully after I regrease everything after I pull the column to paint it. I've included a pic of my lower column the coupler and the shaft itself. My goal is to take the column out repaint it and put everything back with all new parts for the coupler new top cover and new plastic bearing inside bottom of steering column. I know if I take the two bolts out of the lower column the plastic bearing comes out. I also have to remove what looks like the metal sleeve in front. Then if I pop out the coupler roll pin and remove the shoes I can slide that out. What should I keep together so that when I put the column back it is aligned correct. I don't know if I can remove the metal ring securing bottom of column because the fastening screw is underneath and I can't get to it very well. Is there any way to spin the shaft so I can get to it? My other concern is that there seems to be movement in the shaft up and down in the coupler when the 2 bolts are loosened in the lower shaft. When all put back together how far down do I secure the lower column and sink the shaft into the coupler? I just want to make sure there is no play and shaft and column are tightly secured. I know I have some questions but just trying to learn.

Carl
 

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The box coupling has to have its linear travel because the car flexes. If the elongated slots at column support are about centered the travel in the coupling will be about centered.
Aftermarket has a nice molded rubber shell / boot for these couplings. It might not work with headers.
 
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