How free/firm should the movement of my LCA be after replacing the Strut bushings?

[AlV]

Hello FABO, I'm in the middle of my first suspension rebuild and learned a ton. I've read through many of the forum posts to learn the pros and cons of the various kits and materials. I ended up going with the PST Poly super front end kit BUT i used the rubber LCA bushing. Overall things have been progressing well and I'm in assembly phase.

My question is in regards to the movement of the LCA once the new strut bushings are installed. I have the back strut rod nut tightened to 100 Foot lbs and the front nut adjusted to 40 foot lbs as described in the service manual. The LCA pivot pin is right up aganst the K frame as it should be and I'm not experiencing that issue that others had where the arm is pushed away by the strut rod.

I'm going to do my best to ask this question because I have no reference to discern the answer myself:

What should I expect the articulation of the LCA to feel like? Loose or Firm? Should the arm be relaxed enough to just drop to the bottom under it's own weight? ( I don't have the brake assembly on yet)

I mean to say that when the K frame is raised the control arm stays level and does not drop as it did when the old bushings were still installed. If I hold the K and push down on the arm with effort it will rotate down but is very firm and when I ease off it moves back up to it's original position.

http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/...0-34ae-4cfa-8fe7-8c409b20dcac_zps385f1e44.jpg

http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/...A-E8B9-4C8F-8924-8D9C31F92B86_zpsw6vvflqk.jpg

http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/...E-2003-49CD-A3F7-D6AD67BFC904_zps5uyoakoa.jpg

http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/...2-F96C-4AB8-9775-7E9C5F9E541C_zpstq2q3epa.jpg

http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/...5-879A-4B84-A9B5-A0DFABEEA556_zpsqfveedoh.jpg

http://i953.photobucket.com/albums/...3-FB4B-4B65-97B7-0C69238CE238_zpsnoqdn3vq.jpg


Thanks in advance for your help.

-AlV

 

[nm9stheham]

I have never used the poly bushing in this car type, but understand that they are pretty free to rotate. I just assembled my front end LCA's 2 days ago with stock rubber bushing all around and the result was similar when the LCA pin bolts were loose. Your strut bushings look to be compressed about right to me.

 

[PST]

Judging from you pictures and what you have described. You are correct on your installation/rebuild so far. With the new strut rod bushings you will feel that resistance. Be sure to use the Polylube that is included during installation.
Thanks
James

 

[jbc426]

They are tough to move through their range of motion and are ususally the incorrect length from the factory. The Hotchkis adjustable Strut Rods are about the finest example of a re-enginneered fix for the issue. They helped transform how my car rides, handles and drives. Highly recommended!

Be sure to lubricate ALL rubber or poly to steel contact areas with Synthetic Disc Brake Grease, including swaybar ends etc. It makes a huge difference in how easily everything can move through its range of motion.

It will keep the parts lubricated for an extremely long time, it makes things quiet and won't attack plastic, rubber or any thing known to man that is used in the suspension. It is extremely wash-out resistant, works through an incredibly wide range of temperatures and can be used very sparingly. It contains Moly, Teflon, PTFE and Graphite in a high performance synthetic base.

It is black, so wipe off areas you don't want it seen. I use it almost everywhere that needs a lubricant theses days. I works especially well on spring eye bushings, keeping them quiet and freer moving. Make sure you don't tighten down the main LCA nut until the car is sitting at ride height. Buy the Field Service Manual for your car. It's worth every dollar!

 

[AlV]

Judging from you pictures and what you have described. You are correct on your installation/rebuild so far. With the new strut rod bushings you will feel that resistance. Be sure to use the Polylube that is included during installation.
Thanks
James

Thanks for the follow up James

I'll add the polylube and see how that changes things.

In the mean time Let me describe the resistance in range of motion as not being able to rotate the arm end to end but rather only 3 inches in either direction (up and down).

Granted I don't have the ability to apply as much force as a car under load although Id like to think I'm pretty stout. lol

-AlV

 

[AlV]

They are tough to move through their range of motion and are ususally the incorrect length from the factory. The Hotchkis adjustable Strut Rods are about the finest example of a re-enginneered fix for the issue. They helped transform how my car rides, handles and drives. Highly recommended!

Be sure to lubricate ALL rubber or poly to steel contact areas with Synthetic Disc Brake Grease, including swaybar ends etc. It makes a huge difference in how easily everything can move through its range of motion.

It will keep the parts lubricated for an extremely long time, it makes things quiet and won't attack plastic, rubber or any thing known to man that is used in the suspension. It is extremely wash-out resistant, works through an incredibly wide range of temperatures and can be used very sparingly. It contains Moly, Teflon, PTFE and Graphite in a high performance synthetic base.

It is black, so wipe off areas you don't want it seen. I use it almost everywhere that needs a lubricant theses days. I works especially well on spring eye bushings, keeping them quiet and freer moving. Make sure you don't tighten down the main LCA nut until the car is sitting at ride height. Buy the Field Service Manual for your car. It's worth every dollar!

Thanks JBC!

I'm going to try to Lube the bushings and see if that changes things.

I guess I just wasn't expecting the stiff (read firm) results I was seeing. And didn't want to over load the strut rod at the Pivot point on the front bushings. I could see them bending under heavy load.

Yes the Pivot pin nut is only started on the threads to protect them and hold the nut
I'll follow up later.


-AlV

 

[AlV]

I have never used the poly bushing in this car type, but understand that they are pretty free to rotate. I just assembled my front end LCA's 2 days ago with stock rubber bushing all around and the result was similar when the LCA pin bolts were loose. Your strut bushings look to be compressed about right to me.

I guess I'll find out when I put her on the road ;P.

thanks for eyes and your feedback.

-AlV

 

[burdar]

You said you used a "rubber" LCA bushing. If that's the case then you can NOT tighten the LCA pin until the car is on its wheels and the suspension is adjusted to the correct ride height. Just leave that pin loose for now. If you tighten the pin with the suspension hanging, you will destroy the bushing very quickly once the car is on the road. If you used a poly LCA bushing, then you CAN tighten up the pin.

 

[AlV]

You said you used a "rubber" LCA bushing. If that's the case then you can NOT tighten the LCA pin until the car is on its wheels and the suspension is adjusted to the correct ride height. Just leave that pin loose for now. If you tighten the pin with the suspension hanging, you will destroy the bushing very quickly once the car is on the road. If you used a poly LCA bushing, then you CAN tighten up the pin.

Burdar,
Yes I used rubber on the LCA bushing... I will not tighten the pivot nut until I have the car in final resting position.


Good looking out!
Thanks man.
-AlV

 

[nm9stheham]

In the mean time Let me describe the resistance in range of motion as not being able to rotate the arm end to end but rather only 3 inches in either direction (up and down).

Granted I don't have the ability to apply as much force as a car under load although Id like to think I'm pretty stout. lol -AlV

Don't worry, actual road conditions will put many 10's times the force you can do. I used to have to use long pipes to get some suspension bushings to move anywhere near to full range on my race cars......