Slappy
Well-Known Member
nice work!
How I Made My Engine Dolly
- Thread starter krazykuda
- Start date
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Serj22
Well-Known Member
The ones I make are really similar. This one is about 6 times larger though. The wood structures just work - simple.
adiffrentcity
Bent Rodder
What in the hell kind of motor is that? Looks awesome!
Serj22
Well-Known Member
It's going in a 1947 Hacker Streamliner.
I do antique wooden boat restorations, and this one I just finally took off that wooden mount after a year of having it and put it in.
It's a 1940's Rolls Royce Merlin V12, with the Supercharger removed and two marine Zeniths in its place and other marinizing equipment. SHould be good for 700ish HP. This one was originally in a Sherman Tank. Repainted and rebuilt, there's a guy back East that sells them out of his collection and he puts Marine Equipment on them and converts them.
The motor is all aluminum and weighs about 1200lbs.
I'm looking to make a cheap/ easy engine dolly to transport my rebuilt engine to the machinist for a dyno run. Your design would be very easy to make. I was wondering of there are any concerns with resting the completed engine on the oil pan rails. Will it cause damage to the oil pan or affect the pan gasket seal?
bellhp
Daddio
Beautiful engine and boat ... that being said and not trying to be a douche but I believe that is a Meteor which was not supercharged and for British tank use ... Shermans didn't have them but they did at one point have a Chrysler engine which was made out of 5 six cyl. engines sharing a crank making a 30 cylinder radial ! I've got a /6 to donate ... only need 4 more and someone here to reverse engineer that sucker and put it in a Duster!
Serj22
Well-Known Member
It could very well have been for a Brittish tank. I believe the plate near the transmission on it says Merlin, that's why we thought it was weird that it had no SC. So you could very well be right.
And thank you, we've restored and rebuilt every part of this boat from the ground up and been going at it 5 years. It's getting a 1947 cadillac dash put in it which had to be elongated at a metal fabrication shop to fit. Strangely enough the caddy dash was factory installed in 1947, so we have to make it as original as possible. We do period correct restorations of wooden boats. It's hard to take a picture of the Hacker since it's so large, but it truly is beautiful and seamless.
It's also getting this totally awesome Navy Surplus Heat exchanger. It did also come stock in the boat. It's like rebuilding history.
moparlover
Well-Known Member
sweeeeeet boat
krazykuda's wood engine stand could almost be used with a forklift too, could load it on a pickup truck in 5 seconds that way
krazykuda's wood engine stand could almost be used with a forklift too, could load it on a pickup truck in 5 seconds that way
I have one without wheels that I use to haul small blocks in the back of my pick-up.
That way it doesn't roll around.... :banghead:
You could also bolt it to a pallet for using with a fork lift.
pishta
I know I'm right....
Packard licensed that design from RR. The Brits came over and determined that only Packard had the resources to build these to RR specs at that time. Ill have to post up a pic of my afternoon Dolly project. I made mine so it could bolt up a tranny too, 6 casters and the ability to bolt it up and remove the pan. I plan on using 2" swivel casters @ 150lbs for a 900 lb load rating. Well see if it holds up. Mine HAS to bolt to motor mounts as that is what ties the side supports in. I got a glass smooth concrete slab floor, $24 in casters and $14 in metal.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
It won't hurt a thing. The outer edges of the oil pan will kind of dig into the tops of the 2 x 10's, and the oil pan bolts bear most of the weight. I think I remember reading in your resto thread that you are waiting until after dyno day to paint your motor. So that will alleviate worries about skinning the paint on the sides of the oil pan. The motor will sit on the dolly, and never move while it's in the back of the truck. You could add some eye bolts thru the lower few inches of the 2 x 10's and use criss crossed ratchet straps across the motor if it makes you feel better. I do that myself.....but I do have a tendency to swap flies with a bazooka!
It won't hurt a thing. The outer edges of the oil pan will kind of dig into the tops of the 2 x 10's, and the oil pan bolts bear most of the weight. I think I remember reading in your resto thread that you are waiting until after dyno day to paint your motor. So that will alleviate worries about skinning the paint on the sides of the oil pan. The motor will sit on the dolly, and never move while it's in the back of the truck. You could add some eye bolts thru the lower few inches of the 2 x 10's and use criss crossed ratchet straps across the motor if it makes you feel better. I do that myself.....but I do have a tendency to swap flies with a bazooka!
I would just use ratcheting tie down straps and not even bother with eye bolts for stability when travelling.
I would be interested in seeing what you have come up with. I have a 340 and tranny bolted together and have been thinking about making a dolly to move it around. My desire would be to make something modular that allows for the tranny to unbolt from the engine and still have each one on a dolly. This design would allow for the two to be mated up before installing into the car as a unit.
Thanks for the reply JD. I'm off to the lumber yard today to get supplies to make the dolly this weekend.
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
Home Depot sells 24 x 24, and 48 x 48 plywood pieces, so you don't need to buy a whole sheet. Check their seconds cart for the other lumber, and you may find a 2 x 6 there to chop up to make the wedge shaped braces. Good luck.
Worked on my engine cradle today using krazykuda's design. All went as planned and seems to be working accordingly. This post was very timely for me.
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gorgerider
Well-Known Member
And if you really want it to hang together, put some construction adhesive wherever you use a screw.
X2 drywall screws have a tendency of snapping. Very good idea I think I will build one thanks
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
I just picked up the material to build mine to bring home from paint shop. If it was given, I missed the distance between the tall supports that the block base sits on. Anyone? Nice boat project BTW, I cant imagine the complexity of that deal!
TIA---DR:coffee2:
TIA---DR:coffee2:
I just set an oil pan between em and and marked where they needed to be a screwed it together.
Here's the one I built last year, I went a bit over kill on the base but I had access to the material so I built it like this. And I used 2x10s for the uprights and 2 2x10s and a 2x6 for the base. I put big castors on mine since my shop floor looks like a dairy parlor floor!! Rolled the 318 into a corner last night so I could roll my engine stand under the hoist to drop my 5.9 onto a cart to install in my Duster.
I think I'm gonna build a longer one out of square tubing that can hold a k-member with all the steering and brakes, engine with headers and either an auto or manual trans, to use to remove and install engine/trans/suspension on cars. I'll make so it's completely adjustable to fit different stuff and easy to take apart to store.
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This might give you guys some ideas.
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
Got my wooden one finished today except for paint, I will throw some left over latex on it. Now I can pick up my freshly painted engine and bring it home! Great thread, Kudos to the originator!
DR:coffee2:
DR:coffee2:
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