How much bearing damage is too much

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jsadamson

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I took every precaution I could think of and still messed up a single cam bearing. In hopes I don’t have to pull this motor, how much is too much? I have a single bearing that I messed up. The rest are perfect.

Can I smooth this out somehow?
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I think everyone has scratched a cam bearing.
Smooth it carefully, chop the threads off a coarse thread bolt, I use an old cam or similar as a "handle" and screw the 2 cams together.
It kinda gives you better control on the way in/out.
If it's on a stand, roll it over, and you can help support the cam thru those openings .
Good luck .
 
I would change it it looks almost galled with that material on it.
 
With the three additional having damage, I’ll get them changed out now. Engine shop said $150 so it’s an easy decision

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Smart move! It is alot of work but it's alot more work and expensive if those bearings make a mess of your Engine.... And the ease of you thinking about those bearings in the motor....

JW
 
SLOPAR72 said:
Smart move! It is alot of work but it's alot more work and expensive if those bearings make a mess of your Engine.... And the ease of you thinking about those bearings in the motor....

JW
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Agreed. And I am only in the engine because I am upgrading the cam, heads, headers, intake and putting the sniper back on. Seems very counter productive to risk that wear when everything else is being done
 
pittsburghracer said:
That one heck of a crack in that one. Where they installed with a sledgehammer.
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I am thinking so. It’s my first cam swap and I read “don’t scratch the cam bearings” like 1000 times. Used a bolt and everything but that is like banging on sh&t damage
 
They are delaminating from age. Time to replace them. While its out replacing Mains and rods wouldn't be a bad idea. Also all the core plugs, oil pump, and distributor bushing. If your that far the rings, And then have the heads done. True roller chain would be a no brainer. Throw that in while your in there.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
They are delaminating from age. Time to replace them. While its out replacing Mains and rods wouldn't be a bad idea. Also all the core plugs, oil pump, and distributor bushing. If your that far the rings, And then have the heads done. True roller chain would be a no brainer. Throw that in while your in there.
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So the engine was just rebuilt like 7 years ago. 10k miles and regularly driven just not very far. Doesn’t mean the parts they used to rebuild were not older or stored improperly.

Engine is going to the shop. A list of stuff I was already doing is above. This just set my timeline back. Engine shop will do these bearings and check everything else out while in their hands. Thanks for the info though, I can see how that is more of a delam issue versus gouging.
 
jsadamson said:
I took every precaution I could think of and still messed up a single cam bearing. In hopes I don’t have to pull this motor, how much is too much? I have a single bearing that I messed up. The rest are perfect.

Can I smooth this out somehow?
View attachment 1716075458
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You can change the bearing...in car...usually by removing the bearings in front of the damaged one. You'll have to pull the bearings you knock through out the valley window. You'll need a helper. You'll need the grab the bearing removed before it's completely loose so that it doesnt fall into the crank/oil pan.
Pretty much...that bearing is toast. Change it.


The reason for the wear should be found and remedied. It looks like it's A. Oil starved ...and B. Overheated. Check main bearing oil feeds alignment to blocks main saddle oil feed.
 
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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
You can change the bearing...in car...usually by removing the bearings in front of the damaged one. You'll have to pull the bearings you knock through out the valley window. You'll need a helper. You'll need the grab the bearing removed before it's completely loose so that it doesnt fall into the crank/oil pan.
Pretty much...that bearing is toast. Change it.


The reason for the wear should be found and remedied. It looks like it's A. Oil starved ...and B. Overheated. Check main bearing oil feeds alignment to blocks main saddle oil feed.
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I am going to go with overheated. I had some cooling issues with the electric fans because I didn’t think a small gap I had. Long story short it got hot but not “too hot” a time or two. This is probably the result of that. Problem has been remedied and doesn’t get above 200 on a hot day towing with ac now.
 
$150 to replace cam bearings? A lot more than it used to be. I remember it being $50 for cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. Buy your own cam bearing tool. Or rent one from local part store and get your money back, so it will be free.
I have one that's only been used a few times, but at $150/pop, it's more than paid for itself. I put my own in. It ain't that hard.
 
Big block Mopar and small block fords are the hardest. I’ve had my own tool for years and have made it a habit of trying the cam in after I have two or three installed so if I did have a tight one it’s identified.
 
volaredon said:
$150 to replace cam bearings? A lot more than it used to be. I remember it being $50 for cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. Buy your own cam bearing tool. Or rent one from local part store and get your money back, so it will be free.
I have one that's only been used a few times, but at $150/pop, it's more than paid for itself. I put my own in. It ain't that hard.
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150 for them all. All 5? Out the door.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
The tool costs less or the same depending on who makes it.
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Tools + experience

My experience in bearings of any sorts is only how to burn them up. Lol.

I try a lot of stuff, I try to learn a lot of stuff but there are some things I know not to do. Bearings is one of them. Roofs on houses is another.
 
jsadamson said:
Tools + experience

My experience in bearings of any sorts is only how to burn them up. Lol.

I try a lot of stuff, I try to learn a lot of stuff but there are some things I know not to do. Bearings is one of them. Roofs on houses is another.
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Lol
If you can change a front seal on the timing cover,tail shaft bushing on a trans and can figure how to install freeze plugs.....you can surely install cam bearings. We have faith in you. If they get crooked...you just tap them straight. Just line the hole up and tap'em in. The metal shoulder is the point of impact..the collet just expands to exact size...the cone is optional but helps keep it straight...i never use it though. I just eye ball it and pop pop.. test fit after the 1st 3 then continue ..test n tap. Slow and gentle with the instal of the cam...no rush.
 
Too bad you're not local. I'd knock um in for nuthin and we'd share a beer after.
 
jsadamson said:
So the engine was just rebuilt like 7 years ago. 10k miles and regularly driven just not very far. Doesn’t mean the parts they used to rebuild were not older or stored improperly.

Engine is going to the shop. A list of stuff I was already doing is above. This just set my timeline back. Engine shop will do these bearings and check everything else out while in their hands. Thanks for the info though, I can see how that is more of a delam issue versus gouging.
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If the motor is fresh could be the cam bearings were not replaced or if new the clearance was tight and they got hot.
 
ifth
jsadamson said:
I took every precaution I could think of and still messed up a single cam bearing. In hopes I don’t have to pull this motor, how much is too much? I have a single bearing that I messed up. The rest are perfect.

Can I smooth this out somehow?
View attachment 1716075458
Click to expand...
if the can turns freely run it , cam bearings can look like hell and be good...
 
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