how much nitrous will a stock magnum motor take

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MOPARCODY

MOPARCODY

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thinking about running a small shot on my 360 crate motor. motor only has about 10k on it. how much of a shot would be safe. i plan on using a window switch
 
Wrong,everywhere. Start with race gas,and a 100 shot. Pull back total timing,2 degrees
every 50 hp in spray. What kit,what ignition ,Cody
 
MOPARCODY said:
so i should start with a 200 shot and add about 10 degrees of timing?
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Nah, make it 300 & add 20* lol.

Ok, seriously, I'd start with a 100 shot & pull about 4*, If you run a dedicated fuel cell up front with an elec. pump strictly for the plate, I'm sure you can get away with 150, but i wouldn't go passed that, run 110 in the cell & premium in the tank for the engine, pull a good 7-8* timing, run 1-2 steps colder plugs & tighten up the gap to .028", Use a good race plug, A solid ignition system is always a good idea, The MSD Digital-6 is nice, you can adj. it to pull the timing you want, run a WOT switch, I like running window switches for the nitrous, you can set where you want it to come on/off, its a nice feature. Set the nitrous to turn off about 500 rpms below where you'v set the rev. limiter, this way if something breaks its not still dumping nitrous while your on the limiter. These are just some safety precautions that never hurt. Also run a good tighter converter for nitrous.
 
It should take a 100 shot if the tune up is right for a long time,
 
thanks for all the replies. i just picked up a pieced together cheater kit thats adjustable from 100-300, i have a 2 gallon rci fuel cell separate from my tank and another holley blue pump. i still need to get a wot switch bottle brackets blow down tube and a purge kit.

anyone know the rules for running nitrous at the track?
 
MOPARCODY said:
thanks for all the replies. i just picked up a pieced together cheater kit thats adjustable from 100-300, i have a 2 gallon rci fuel cell separate from my tank and another holley blue pump. i still need to get a wot switch bottle brackets blow down tube and a purge kit.

anyone know the rules for running nitrous at the track?
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No set in stone rules, but there should be 2 in my book.

No warming bottle with torch.
No loose bottle in car.
 
JoeDust451 said:
No set in stone rules, but there should be 2 in my book.

No warming bottle with torch.
No loose bottle in car.
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Well damn that takes all the fun out of getting hit upside the head with a red hot nitrous bottle.
 
150 would be safe.

We ran 200 on a 1990 vette, 150 stage 1, 50 stage 2.

That thing had hundreds of passes on it.
 
JoeDust451 said:
Have you ever seen what happens with a bottle explodes or...........Ain't pretty.
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No but it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out. Acetylene, oxygen and nitrous. Do the math. lol
 
roccodart440 said:
pistons, crank and rods were stock but I don't know if it had forged from the factory..
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Most were hyp. if not cast. What really takes a beating are the rod caps & bolts, especially if the pistons are heavy. I pulled apart a factory 440 that had a stock bottom end, it had several 175 shot passes on it, when i tore it done, the caps slipped right off the rods.


Not saying the rest of the lower end didn't feel the effects. The mains slipped right out also., I'm sure it needed align bored. But the cylinders & pistons & rings all showed normal wear.
 
If you are serious about racing a progressive system is great and it is easier on the engine/harder on the NOS soloniods. It also adds about 600 dollars to the price tag.
 
the nitrous kit will only be on the car for a few grudge passes so i dont want to invest too much. im going to start with a 100 shot and play with it until i get a 10 second pass
 
Tune is the key to making it live. 175hp for 8 years. The guys(or instructions) that say X timing removed for X hp are clueless. Tune is the key and most are wrong.
 
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