How much should i be paying for a

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$150-300? Depends on patience and condition. It would have to be made of unobtanium if above $350. Just my experience. Last piece on the list? If not, find a parts car for $1500-2K with a really nice tach. Strip it and sell the rest. I wish I had.
 
clementine said:
$150-300? Depends on patience and condition. It would have to be made of unobtanium if above $350. Just my experience. Last piece on the list? If not, find a parts car for $1500-2K with a really nice tach. Strip it and sell the rest. I wish I had.
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Thanks
 
I just sold 2 on this site. I am buying a new one and applying a new sticker for the correct face. The new tachs work with new high energy ignitions . They are 8000 instead of 6000

1967-1971 Dodge Dart Parts | MA1525 | 1967-71 Mopar A-Body Rallye In-Dash Tachometer With 0 @ 5 O'Clock | Classic Industries

Then apply this
1968-1971 Dodge Dart Parts | MA820146 | 1968-71 Mopar A-Body With Rallye Gauges With Red 5500-6000 Range Tachometer Face Decal | Classic Industries

once its installed no one will know. Thats a little over $200 for a new up to date tach.

That is why I sold all of mine.

DSCN1404.jpg
 
I have the same question about the scaling differences between the tachometer and the sticker. Has anyone come up with a solution for this? Thanks for any input.
 
I used to have a lil in-dash tach like that!
But it was only 6000, terribly slow, the divisions were too fine, and I had to take my eyes off the road to see it, which at speed is never a good thing. I swapped it out for a vacuum gauge; and bought an 8000/ 270sweep with a shift light; and a rev-limiter which I use as a cruise control. Nice street-tach.
 
AJ/FormS said:
How do yo handle the scaling differences?
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With a 6000 chip in the MSD It hits the rev limiter at around 5700. 300 rpms off on a tach I can barely see who cares about the accuracy. It looks better then a blank or a factory tack that the needle doesn't move at all. And who sees it but me? If you are using it for accuracy buy one like this with a recall. They also have the decal for 67-69 we used in a Barracuda pictured.

DSCF2825.JPG


100_0085.JPG
 
.....or just leave the 8K tach face on it. That's what I'd do.
 
I called the manufacturer about the scaling question and they pointed out that it can be adjusted- there is a hole on the back of the unit that allows you to turn a tiny Phillips screw for calibration.
 
Capecodcuda said:
I called the manufacturer about the scaling question and they pointed out that it can be adjusted- there is a hole on the back of the unit that allows you to turn a tiny Phillips screw for calibration.
Click to expand...
I knew that. Scaling was the wrong word to use, but I couldn't remember the right word then, nor even now.
What I meant was the divisions on the scale are so close together, and the mechanism in the factory tach is so slow, that
if you intend to shift at a true 5500, at what visual rpm do you actually shift at> Considering the width of the needle itself is like 100 rpm, and the mechanism could be another 200 rpm slower, are you gonna pull the trigger at 5200?
And then, with your eyes shifting from the road to the tach, and back, refocusing each time, who's actually driving the doggone car.
I mean my car hits 93 in the eighth, and I go thru 4 gears/three shifts to get there, and I gotta stay in my lane, with the tires on fire....... so I better be looking where I'm going. Bouncing of the rev-limiter is NOT the answer.
Jus saying
Daymn I just remembered the Word: Resolution. Getting old sux too.
 
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